Tru-Oil: Sealer and Wax - Yes or No?

[Rick]

Need?  No, but it would be easier and would make the korina pop.

 

[alexreinhold]

sorry for bumping again

The wood looks insanely beautiful after 2 coats of filler and 4 coats of Tru Oil. To the experts - do you sand after the last coat? If yes, before or after drying?

 

[Rick]

Actually, for me, after the last coat, and a month of drying, I hit it with something like meguire's scratch-x, a car swirl remover, and if there are any imperfections they disappear, and gives it good gloss.

 

[stratamania]

Any sanding I might do is after drying and very light with perhaps something around 2500 grit but only if needed.

 

[alexreinhold]

Another product to try after the tru-oil if you want a satin smooth look would be Birchwood Casey Stock Sheen and Conditioner.

I read a bit into this. Just to confirm, you apply after Tru Oil has been drying for a month or so, right? Does it need any further drying itself?

 

[stratamania]

Another product to try after the tru-oil if you want a satin smooth look would be Birchwood Casey Stock Sheen and Conditioner.

I read a bit into this. Just to confirm, you apply after Tru Oil has been drying for a month or so, right? Does it need any further drying itself?

Stock Sheen and Conditioner could be applied about three days after the last coat of Tru-oil, apply and buff with a cloth, repeat if needed. At that point you could use it fairly soon after. I prefer to let necks sit about a month after completing all of the finishing just to ensure they are ready for use. Others of course may not be so patient.

 

[alexreinhold]

In order to avoid new threads, I'll just continue here because I need help yet again :-/ I hope you guys don't mind...

I accidently touched the ebony fretboard with slightly (tru)oily fingers and left some tiny oil prints on it. Any advise on how to get rid of them? Sanding? Lemon Oil on of all frets? Aceton?

PS: Tomorrow I'll apply last coat of tru-oil and will then share first pictures. So far, results are EPIC. Next step: sheen & conditioner (ordered today courtesy of Stratamania)

 

[Rick]

if they are very thin, they will wear off with playing.  There would be no harm in rubbing with a paper towel soaked in naptha.  Rub with the grain.  After 15 minutes, replenish the wood's oil with mineral oil.

 

[stratamania]

In the worse case you could also carefully use the edge of a sharp blade to scrape off finish off the board.

 

[alexreinhold]

Here are some pictures. I really love the combination of Regal body, Black Korina and Tru Oil.

Next Steps: BC Sheen & Conditioner, 1 month drying, fine sanding (2500 grit to get the oil swirls out), assembly.

 

[Rick]

Gorgeous!  :icon_thumright:

 

[stratamania]

Looks very good

Though I would suggest this...

Next Steps: drying... fine sanding (2500 grit to get the oil swirls out),  BC Sheen & Conditioner,  drying, assembly.

 

[alexreinhold]

Looks very good

Though I would suggest this...

Next Steps: drying... fine sanding (2500 grit to get the oil swirls out),  BC Sheen & Conditioner,  drying, assembly.

Good call. Drying now, will then sand and apply sheen and conditioner on Monday (i.e. after 4 days of drying) and then dry for a month. Then assembly.

 

[stratamania]

There is also usually a step after BC Sheen & Conditioner of buffing with a soft cloth.

 

[alexreinhold]

OK, new milestone, new "problem" (albeit, a very small problem): I applied BC Sheen and Conditioner - that stuff is crazy nice. Before I sanded down to 2500 and noticed that the gloss was harder to get out on some spots. So I applied Sheen and Conditioner and then sanded down to 3000 again (which had a great effect btw!) before applying a last round of BC Sheen and Conditioner. I finally buffed the guitar.

However, for some reason, one spot on the front of the guitar somehow "whitened" in the process. You can only see it if you really want to see it but, well... you can (see attached photo). Any idea how this happened and can I "fix" it? I find it unlikely that I sanded through with 2500/3000 so I'm a bit surprised.

 

[Rick]

yes, if the area is sand thru, wipe the area with naptha.  Let dry.  Then rub in six coats of tru-oil thinned 50% with naptha.  You'll just need the tiniest amount.  Rub in with you finger cleaned in naptha.  Let dry a day between touch ups.  That should fix it.  Let dry two weeks.  No more sand paper.  Only use a gentle rub with swirl remover.

 

[alexreinhold]

yes, if the area is sand thru, wipe the area with naptha.  Let dry.  Then rub in six coats of tru-oil thinned 50% with naptha.  You'll just need the tiniest amount.  Rub in with you finger cleaned in naptha.  Let dry a day between touch ups.  That should fix it.  Let dry two weeks.  No more sand paper.  Only use a gentle rub with swirl remover.

Hmm... I'm inclined to try but I am a bit worried that this approach would make the area even more prominent - don't you see that as a risk?

 

[Rick]

Nope, I've done touch ups with tru-oil and they always work out fine.  The stuff melts into the previous layer and witness lines disappear.