The Cyclocaster project!
- Thread starter Don
- Start date
Allright, so end of the day it's:
Vintage Modern Neck
Shaft Wood: Maple
Fingerboard Wood: Indian Rosewood
Nut Width: 1 11/16
Orientation: Right Handed
Back contour: 59 Roundback (let'shope it's not too thick)
Fingerboard Radius: 10-16” Compound
Fingerboard Lenght: 22
Fret Size: 6105 stainless
Tuner Hole Size: Schaller (25/64”, 11/32”)
Inlay: Cream Face Dots (cool with it)
String Nut: Graph Tech black TUSQ XL
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
Finish: Clear Satin Nitro
And a Mustang unrouted body.
I'll take some picture when the stuff gets here.
You've been really helpul guys, thank you very much.
Vintage Modern Neck
Shaft Wood: Maple
Fingerboard Wood: Indian Rosewood
Nut Width: 1 11/16
Orientation: Right Handed
Back contour: 59 Roundback (let'shope it's not too thick)
Fingerboard Radius: 10-16” Compound
Fingerboard Lenght: 22
Fret Size: 6105 stainless
Tuner Hole Size: Schaller (25/64”, 11/32”)
Inlay: Cream Face Dots (cool with it)
String Nut: Graph Tech black TUSQ XL
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
Finish: Clear Satin Nitro
And a Mustang unrouted body.
I'll take some picture when the stuff gets here.
You've been really helpul guys, thank you very much.
Cagey
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Yeah, I know. Unfortunately, it's so entrenched that I'll never see it change in my lifetime. For some reason, the metric system is treated like some kind of existential threat. Even when it's mandated, all you get is malicious compliance. Manufacturers and suppliers simply put the metric conversion on labels, which doesn't teach anybody anything and so remains meaningless. For instance, if something always came in 12 ounce cans, they call it a .35 liter can. Well, hell. If you don't have a feel for a unit of measure in the first place, giving people fractions of one in decimal values is hardly clarifying or educational.
But, most of the kids our schools put out can barely count to 14 without taking their shoes and socks off, and doing simple math without using facebook to get opinions on possible answers is out of the question, so it doesn't make much difference.
But, most of the kids our schools put out can barely count to 14 without taking their shoes and socks off, and doing simple math without using facebook to get opinions on possible answers is out of the question, so it doesn't make much difference.
We are goin' OT, but just for the sake of a good conversation:
In Italy there's one old joke about american measures in which a guy that emigrated comes back to Italy and tells another guy how big things are down in the USA. "They have HUUGE bottles for milk, 1 gallon each! That's 4 liters!" (we consider big a 2 liters bottle) and it goes on like "My office is 10 miles from my home, that's 15 km!" and it goes on and on and on until the Italian guys asks him "I wonder how big their suppositories are..." and the other guys answers "They call'em watermelons!" :icon_biggrin:
Seriously though, i think your administration doesn't want to give it up to keep a sense of diffrence between you and "the other guys from the world". It's a matter of national identity, the stronger it is, the easier for them to control you and arouse you against some foreign danger, wheter it is a Muslim or a Vietcong or a guy with a wig, yellow teeth and a strange accent.
It's something every government does to keep the status quo, from Hobbes times to our harsh times.
It sounds like a lunatic hobo's speech, but trust me, it is pretty basic psychology.
In Italy there's one old joke about american measures in which a guy that emigrated comes back to Italy and tells another guy how big things are down in the USA. "They have HUUGE bottles for milk, 1 gallon each! That's 4 liters!" (we consider big a 2 liters bottle) and it goes on like "My office is 10 miles from my home, that's 15 km!" and it goes on and on and on until the Italian guys asks him "I wonder how big their suppositories are..." and the other guys answers "They call'em watermelons!" :icon_biggrin:
Seriously though, i think your administration doesn't want to give it up to keep a sense of diffrence between you and "the other guys from the world". It's a matter of national identity, the stronger it is, the easier for them to control you and arouse you against some foreign danger, wheter it is a Muslim or a Vietcong or a guy with a wig, yellow teeth and a strange accent.
It's something every government does to keep the status quo, from Hobbes times to our harsh times.
It sounds like a lunatic hobo's speech, but trust me, it is pretty basic psychology.
I've placed the order a couple days ago. Anybody has an idea how much will it take for them to ship? The neck was already build, it needed only fretting and painting, and the body is just a Mustang shaped slab, with a neck pocket. It shouldn't take more than a couple of weeks i guess. It say waiting to ship in the order status, but i have the suspect it just says it until they ship 
In the meantime i'm searching for the other parts.
Checking the jaguar bridge, i just decided it's not worth the risk to install a classic jag bridge on a 1200 $ guitar. I'm talking about the saddles, not the vibrato plate.
So i thought i could buy a tune o matic roller bridge and install it.
Would that work? I know there are some issues with the compound radius, but i didn't understand well what i got to do in order to fix 'em.
I know i have a 10-16" radius, most of the TOMs have 12" radius. What's the exact procedure to adjust the radius? Is this really necessary? Is there any adjustable TOM bridge with individual fender-like high adjustable saddles? Are rollers adjustable?
Daaaaaaim so many doubts!
So many options, so little money.
In the meantime i'm searching for the other parts.
Checking the jaguar bridge, i just decided it's not worth the risk to install a classic jag bridge on a 1200 $ guitar. I'm talking about the saddles, not the vibrato plate.
So i thought i could buy a tune o matic roller bridge and install it.
Would that work? I know there are some issues with the compound radius, but i didn't understand well what i got to do in order to fix 'em.
I know i have a 10-16" radius, most of the TOMs have 12" radius. What's the exact procedure to adjust the radius? Is this really necessary? Is there any adjustable TOM bridge with individual fender-like high adjustable saddles? Are rollers adjustable?
Daaaaaaim so many doubts!
So many options, so little money.
Cagey
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They build/modify stuff fairly fast. But, anything that requires a finish is time-consuming. I think if you check your order confirmation there's a section where they lay out what your expectations should be, and I believe finish work adds about 8-10 weeks. It's not that it's terribly labor-intensive, but there's cure time that has to pass or it won't come out well.
On the plus side, it'll be one of the finest finishes you'll have seen for a long time. They do really good work.
On the plus side, it'll be one of the finest finishes you'll have seen for a long time. They do really good work.
Mmm... Maybe is better this way. The weather here in May/June is very dry and not too hot, which is what i think the best weather to paint stuff. Especially wooden stuff.
That would give me time to raise enough money to gather the rest of the stuff i've got to screw on her body (that's what she said :laughing7
What do you think about the bridge issue Cagey?
That would give me time to raise enough money to gather the rest of the stuff i've got to screw on her body (that's what she said :laughing7
What do you think about the bridge issue Cagey?
Cagey
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Don said:Mmm... Maybe is better this way. The weather here in May/June is very dry and not too hot, which is what i think the best weather to paint stuff. Especially wooden stuff.
That would give me time to raise enough money to gather the rest of the stuff i've got to screw on her body (that's what she said :laughing7
What do you think about the bridge issue Cagey?
I'm not sure I understand. You wondered what adding a finish did to shipping time, but don't mind that it's taking longer because by the time it shows up it'll be good finishing weather where you are? Then you're wondering about which bridge to use? If you're getting a finish applied aren't the bridge routs and/or mounting holes already done? Especially if you're considering a Jaguar/Jazzmaster bridge. That's not a trivial cut, and requires a serious commitment.
But, to answer your question directly, unless you're trying to build a period-perfect instrument, I wouldn't use a jaguar/Jazzmaster bridge/vibrato setup. They have a pretty limited range and don't return to neutral reliably. A TOM bridge doesn't help much because the whole setup is ill-conceived to start with. The design depends on strings under tension to stretch and relax over a fixed point, which just isn't going to happen with any predictability. However, If you live in western Europe you may have easier access to Schaller parts than we do in the US and they make some nice roller saddle bridges...
They have a 14" radius, which in a perfect world is tighter than you'd want for a compound radius Warmoth neck, but is closer to correct than a typical TOM.
Cagey said:I'm not sure I understand. You wondered what adding a finish did to shipping time, but don't mind that it's taking longer because by the time it shows up it'll be good finishing weather where you are? Then you're wondering about which bridge to use? If you're getting a finish applied aren't the bridge routs and/or mounting holes already done? Especially if you're considering a Jaguar/Jazzmaster bridge. That's not a trivial cut, and requires a serious commitment.
But, to answer your question directly, unless you're trying to build a period-perfect instrument, I wouldn't use a jaguar/Jazzmaster bridge/vibrato setup. They have a pretty limited range and don't return to neutral reliably. A TOM bridge doesn't help much because the whole setup is ill-conceived to start with. The design depends on strings under tension to stretch and relax over a fixed point, which just isn't going to happen with any predictability. However, If you live in western Europe you may have easier access to Schaller parts than we do in the US and they make some nice roller saddle bridges...
They have a 14" radius, which in a perfect world is tighter than you'd want for a compound radius Warmoth neck, but is closer to correct than a typical TOM.
Yeah sorry i was late for school this morning, my bad
you understood correctly though.The neck will come already painted, but the body won't. So even if i already got the parts, i still would have to wait for good weather to work on it.
I will have to paint the body after everything is done.
I know jaguar bridges are really tricky, that's why i don't want to use a jaguar bridge. And by bridge i mean saddles. The floating tremolo on jaguars works directly on the saddles to get the tremolo effect done, by moving the saddles back and forth through string tension, so i thought the problems are origined by the saddles, not the tremolo system. Fixing a roller bridge on the body should fix the problem, considering that the action should be recieved on the rolling saddles instead of a rocking bridge.
I don't think i managed to make myself clear though
The problems with jag bridges are about their saddles, that are bad by design, make string jump out of the grooves, vibrate making noises ecc ecc, and the fact that, since the tremolo action bases its functioning on making strings swipe through saddles' grooves to higher or lower string tension resulting in a leaning of the rocking bridge instead of acting directly on the bridge like on a stratocaster tremolo, the friction between saddles and strings is either too high (with big gauges) or too low (with thin gauges) to keep the guitar in tune.
I think i could solve both problems by fixing (i mean not let it rock back and forth like a jag bridge) a roller bridge: this way there are no problems about the saddles (i know some roller bridges have individual high adjustment srews for each saddle) and the friction of the tremolo action should be absorbed by the rolling saddles.
Is this theory correct?
I think i could solve both problems by fixing (i mean not let it rock back and forth like a jag bridge) a roller bridge: this way there are no problems about the saddles (i know some roller bridges have individual high adjustment srews for each saddle) and the friction of the tremolo action should be absorbed by the rolling saddles.
Is this theory correct?
Cagey
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Pretty much. The original bridge for that guitar is pure, unadulterated crap. Leo was a lot of things, but mechanical engineer wasn't one of them. A better bridge won't fix the range issue, but not everyone cares about that. If you just want to make small pitch wavers, it'll work.
Yeah, i'm not a big tremolo user, but i like to use it every now and then when it fits the moment.
I read on some posts here that there is something you can do to the bridge to fix the radius, it has to do with files, but i didn't understand what it is about exactly.
I'm going to fix it though only if there is a real problem with it, like buzzing frets or tuning issues. If it'll play fine than i'm gonna get a tune o matic roller and i'm fine.
Schaller parts are damn pricey. The guitar will mount their mini locking tuners. I guess i'll have to check wilkinson for something a little bit cheaper.
Any other cheap but well crafted tune o matic type bridge?
I read on some posts here that there is something you can do to the bridge to fix the radius, it has to do with files, but i didn't understand what it is about exactly.
I'm going to fix it though only if there is a real problem with it, like buzzing frets or tuning issues. If it'll play fine than i'm gonna get a tune o matic roller and i'm fine.
Schaller parts are damn pricey. The guitar will mount their mini locking tuners. I guess i'll have to check wilkinson for something a little bit cheaper.
Any other cheap but well crafted tune o matic type bridge?
I have been thinking about doing something like this too, as I think a 24" scale length would just be a stupid thing to try because of these gorilla hands I have.
The only thing I would make sure of, and forgive me if you mentioned this, I only skimmed your posts, is that the strat neck will drop into the mustang pocket. I would think it would, but the taper might be different with the different scale length, etc.
Just something to think about. I would think if the neck drops right into the pocket, the rest of the project would be cake. There is definitely enough room on the body to not make it look strange.
Ooopsss. Totally missed the other 2 pages of this thread. Oh well, what I said still stands :laughing7:
The only thing I would make sure of, and forgive me if you mentioned this, I only skimmed your posts, is that the strat neck will drop into the mustang pocket. I would think it would, but the taper might be different with the different scale length, etc.
Just something to think about. I would think if the neck drops right into the pocket, the rest of the project would be cake. There is definitely enough room on the body to not make it look strange.
Ooopsss. Totally missed the other 2 pages of this thread. Oh well, what I said still stands :laughing7:
I understand your hands size issue, playing my tiny squier's neck with the big hands i have is a pain in the ass :icon_biggrin: especially for blues, with all that bending and stuff :icon_smile:rapfohl09 said:
However if i understood well every warmoth neck has the same neck pocket/shape, which is a strat pocket, apart from teles that are not compatible with strat pockets. So yeah there shouldn't be any problem with the neck compatibility. At worst you could still carve the neck pocket a little bigger, since the only difference that could be with a strato neck on a mustang body is that the neck could be a little bigger than the neck pocket on a normal mustang.
I would be glad to see how your project will proceed and help you if you need anything :icon_thumright:
Edit: Given that i'm going to use normal mustang knobs (the big ones on jazz basses) would normal split shaft pots like this http://cgi.ebay.it/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=170703080727 work? or should i get something else? Like long shaft or solid shaft?
I heard positive opinions about Mastery bridges, they say they are the best Jag bridges around, but i simply don't have enough money for it. Maybe i could add it later on, if the schaller roller gives me troubles, but 'ill go with the schaller bridge for now. Call me crazy, but i like jag tremolos. Better than mustang's and strato's. Hell, i think floyd roses are the worst looking bridges around, so you know, i guess i have peculiar tastes :laughing7: so the jag vibrato is in if there's enough room to install it on a mustang.Tipperman said:
I'm not a divebomber or anything like that, so the whole "if you throw a fuckin elephant on the whammy bar and then set the guitar on fire while making 7 tones bendings, it doesn't hold the tune!!!" issue doesn't affect me. :icon_biggrin:
