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Telerauder Build

Rgand said:
Thank you, all.

Logrinn said:
Now ... do you take orders? :icon_jokercolor:
My wife says I should do that better. :icon_biggrin:

Actually, I'd have to think on that. The biggest challenge, the finish, is still ahead of me.

I hear you.
But I have to say - that is such a nice body shape. Did I say that already? I believe I did. :icon_biggrin:

As for finish, there's always Tonar who you could start collaborating with. And like Pinter you guys could start a new guitar company. Maybe use a combination and scrambling of your usernames here: "Grand Tone Guitars"  :icon_biggrin:
 
I think you might have. :laughing11:

Having not done a finish myself, I want to do one. BUT, Tonar is only 2 hours from here and his finishes are the finest. I'll give it a go first but it's reassuring to know that's an option.
 
Rgand said:
Having not done a finish myself, I want to do one. BUT, Tonar is only 2 hours from here and his finishes are the finest. I'll give it a go first but it's reassuring to know that's an option.

Wow, I didn't know that. Cool.

Of course you should do your own finish. I was thinking more when you guys start your production line then it might be a good idea to work together  :icon_jokercolor:
 
Seriuously though, that body looks so good - whatever pickup combination one might go for - that perhaps it would be a good idea to put it in Warmoth's Suggestion Box for a new (old) model.
 
Logrinn said:
Of course you should do your own finish.
Yeah, I really need to get at least one finish done. I'm not really set up for it here but I'll certainly have fun doing my best.
 
I had a little more time today so I did some more on the pickguard.

To check the pickguard pattern and locate the blade switch, I made a test guard out of a self-adhesive linoleum square. I experimented with the adhesive to make it just slightly effective so I could stick it on the pattern to work with but it was just too damn sticky. If I put anything on it, it negated any adhesion. I simply left the backing on and screwed it to the pattern using two of the existing screw holes from the original pattern(s). I cut the excess off the linoleum with sheet metal shears and drilled an access hole in the pickup opening. Then I cut it out with the router table.

I transferred the 5 rocker switch locations from the lower switch plate to the linoleum test guard. I was undecided whether to put the switch parallel to the centerline of the body or at an angle. I figured cutting it at an angle would be more work to get lined up right but I figured I’d try that first. It looked like I could put the switch in at a 30 degree angle so that’s what I did. No-go. The switch hit on both sides just enough to keep the guard from lining up so I slotted the holes and worked on the switch slot with swiss files until the switch was rotated enough to fit in the existing route on the body. When I measured the angle, it was about 28 degrees off from centerline alignment.

With the neck on the body again, I mounted the pickguard with the center hole that held the body pattern on. The neck kept it from rotating. I sat on a wine barrel and held the guitar the way I would if I was going to play it and tried the switch. It was good. No, it wasn’t just ‘good’, it was frikkin fantastic. Birds sang and crickets chirped. Angels sang. It felt so right that I decided to put the switch in the finished guitar the same way.

If I run into any alignment problems with the switch hitting the sides of the cavity when I make the actual pickguard, I’ll just adjust the cavity. There’s plenty of room to do that. Which brings up an interesting thought: why do guitar makers route just barely enough out to fit something in? When there’s plenty of room, why not cut out a big area so you can have options or at least an easy job of putting things in?

Next I laid the guitar on the bench and set the bridge on where it will go. The pickguard will need a slight adjustment for that but not enough to change the pattern. It can be adjusted with sandpaper and a block.

I ran a straight edge along the sides and center of the neck to see how it aligned with the saddles. Both sides lined up with the exact center of the outside height adjustment screws. Nice. I also laid the straight edge from the center of the nut to the center saddle screw and it went right down the center of the neck spots. The holes from the original pattern proved to be in the right place and I can mount that bridge right on those two holes to align the rest.

For purposes of the photos, I put the control plate pattern in place. This thing is going to be an outstanding guitar. I wish I could get a side jack in it. Then I could put the blade switch in that plate, which would be ideal, or I could leave the switch where it’s planned and move the controls even further from the line of fire while thrashing wildly with a pick.
 

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You'll have to enlighten me as to why you can't put a side jack in it. I can't see a reason.

Rgand said:
Which brings up an interesting thought: why do guitar makers route just barely enough out to fit something in? When there’s plenty of room, why not cut out a big area so you can have options or at least an easy job of putting things in?

Three reasons I can think of quickly:
1. Tools wear, and replacements cost money. Don't use them more than you have to.
2. Time is money. Don't do any more work than you have to.
3. Making your life easy will not increase sales.
 
Robert,  the side jack need not necessarily go straight into the cavity. You can bore a 7'8" hole into the body a little south of the pickguard using the Forstner bit and then just use your aviation bit to open a hole to it.
 
OK, Kevin. I can see why no one routes out larger cavities, then. Thanks for that.

Cagey said:
You'll have to enlighten me as to why you can't put a side jack in it. I can't see a reason.
I only have 3/4" between the 7/16" roundovers, assuming I haven't sanded beyond that toward the middle of the body. The football plate I have is 1" wide and I really don't want to see a gap at the edges. I could use one of those 1/2" flush mount jacks but I didn't think they were all that great for longevity.

Bagman67 said:
Robert,  the side jack need not necessarily go straight into the cavity. You can bore a 7'8" hole into the body a little south of the pickguard using the Forstner bit and then just use your aviation bit to open a hole to it.
This hadn't occurred to me. I like the idea a lot. Thanks for the suggestion and I'll store that idea for the future. if I do decide to put one of the 1/2" flush mount jacks in, I could make my own jack plate and mount it that way.
 
I'm loving this more and more. I need to make myself such a body adjusted to a 24" scale neck.  :eek:ccasion14:
 
Logrinn said:
I'm loving this more and more. I need to make myself such a body adjusted to a 24" scale neck.  :eek:ccasion14:
That would be easy to do. Move the bridge and pickup up to fit the scale and you're there.
 
Rgand said:
Logrinn said:
I'm loving this more and more. I need to make myself such a body adjusted to a 24" scale neck.  :eek:ccasion14:
That would be easy to do. Move the bridge and pickup up to fit the scale and you're there.

Exactly! Now where's my hammer? And nails? Let's not forget my saw ... :icon_jokercolor:
 
Logrinn said:
Rgand said:
Logrinn said:
I'm loving this more and more. I need to make myself such a body adjusted to a 24" scale neck.  :eek:ccasion14:
That would be easy to do. Move the bridge and pickup up to fit the scale and you're there.

Exactly! Now where's my hammer? And nails? Let's not forget my saw ... :icon_jokercolor:
:laughing11:

Be sure to put that blade switch in at an angle. I'm considering opening up that cavity a bit to make it easier to fit in.
 
I definitely like that angled switch. That's what I would like to have as well.
 
I had a few minutes again today so I opened up the switch cavity a little bit on the side toward the strings so I could mount the switch in with a little room to work.

I also screwed the bridge on with the two outside screws and drilled the other two mounting holes and the top half of the string holes. I think it was Kevin who posted a link to the video on how to get the ferules drilled correctly. If it was someone else, apologies for not giving credit where it's due.
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_pL7lXIHrg[/youtube]

Since I only have one drill the right size, I'll have to get another one before I can do the other side. I do have the Forstner bit, though.

After I removed the bridge, I hand beveled the holes with a handy little tool that I use on almost every single project I do. This one has had the handle replaced some years ago but you can get a modern equivalent here on Amazon.
 

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It was both Kevin, and myself who posted a couple of videos for you. No worries though and its good to see your project moving along.
 
stratamania said:
It was both Kevin, and myself who posted a couple of videos for you. No worries though and its good to see your project moving along.
Thanks for that. That way of lining up the holes is really a good idea. I doubt I'd have thought of it myself.

I figure if I keep at it whenever I have a few minutes, it'll get done.

Now I have to make a trip into town for some drill bits. I have 5 fraction drill indexes and a lot of loose drills but only one drill the right size. Too many years of breaking them, I guess. Those little ones always go first. :icon_biggrin: Come to think of it, I have a bunch of number drills. Maybe I have enough of the right size to do the job. I'll have to check later on.
 
I suppose you could also use some steel rod of the correct diameter as an alternative to drill bits. But of course, that may not be lying around either in most peoples spaces.
 
stratamania said:
I suppose you could also use some steel rod of the correct diameter as an alternative to drill bits. But of course, that may not be lying around either in most peoples spaces.
If it was 3/32" I could do that but I need 7/64". That's OK, this is a good excuse to replenish my indexes.
 
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