Strat builds are started

[smjenkins]

My necks are in and I just did the first "assembly" steps of applying the headstock waterslides.  Next up is applying the shellac and laquer on top.  I'll keep using this thread as the rest of the parts arrive and I make progress.

 

[JaySwear]

nice! can i ask your system for applying the decals? i have a waterslide i'm about to put on my telecaster, but i figured i needed to sand the satin finish off first. it looks like you're going right overtop.

 

[bbl4ck]

Yes, Enquiring minds want to know...
:kewlpics: :rock-on:

 

[smjenkins]

The directions from the place I bought the waterslides from didn't sound very particular about the base surface as long as it wasn't raw wood.  "Make sure your headstock is smooth!  I do not recommend putting the decal on raw wood (although some people claim it works fine).  It is best to apply a few light coats of lacquer onto the headstock first, and then wet sand until smooth."  I can send you a link to those directions if you PM me.  

Also, I figure as I'll be finishing over top of the decals, that will provide more adhering power.  As for finishing over top, I'm using the great advice from CB.  See these threads:

http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=3206.msg33687#msg33687
http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=12581.msg171801#msg171801

 

[bigguspickus]

My advice would be to take your time, and if you don't have any shellac handy, here are some very good lacquer-only instructions from the ReRanch website:

First clean the peghead with naphtha to remove any contamination and apply the decal. Most decals are of the water-soluble type, and after soaking, will easily transfer from the carrier paper to the headstock. When in place, smooth the decal with a damp finger to flatten and remove excess water from under the film. When dry, the clear coating can begin.

The decal will crinkle and lift if too heavy of an application of lacquer is made without first protecting the decal. Light misting coats of lacquer will offer this protection as well as soften the old finish and prevent lifting.

Here is an application schedule that will give a good clear coat without damaging the decal:

After applying the decal and letting it dry completely, spray a misting coat of clear lacquer over the decal. Let this coat dry about an hour. Then spray another misting coat and let this coat dry an hour. Spray on one more mist coat and let the lacquer dry overnight. These three misting coats will soften the surrounding finish to prevent shocking and allow the new coats to better bond. They also will act as a barrier coat for the next, somewhat wetter, coats.

After drying overnight, spray with a medium coat of lacquer. If nothing moves, you should be ok. After an hour, spray one more medium wet coat and let dry again over night.

The next day, spray two to three wet coats with each coat separated by an hour's drying time.

When dry (about three days) wet sand with a block in steps of #600 to #1500 and polish.

Again, the underlying reasoning for the step approach is the tendency of the unprotected decal carrier to crinkle if too heavy of a coat of lacquer is applied. The light coats will give the protection needed to prevent crinkling.

Remember, "patients..."

 

[dNA]

Remember, "patients..."

Doctors have patients. What this man needs is patience

 

[smjenkins]

Indeed.  Just like Axl said.  Thanks for the ReRanch info Big Gus. 

 

[bigguspickus]

You're welcome, but it's not Big Gus, It's Biggus Pickus.

Q: What's so funny about the name... Biggus... Pickus?

A:
[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_dWMy47Bmk[/youtube]

 

[smjenkins]

Sorry about the name.  I took a shot at putting spaces in where is made sense.  Space fail. 

 

[smjenkins]

The body for the Billy Corgan strat arrived yesterday!  The dyed brown flame on the front is wonderful, but I'm also really digging the transparent brown on the back.  This one is going to have the light maple neck and black pickguard with black switches / pickup covers. 

I checked the neck fit and it won't fit in the pocket.  I'll give it a few days to acclimate and if it still doesn't fit, I'll do some light sanding on the pocket sides.  Anyway, here's some pics:

 

[Mor Paul]

Man, that's a nice top.

 

[exaN]

Niceee

 

[Patrick]

i *personally* dont understand why someone would have such a nice top front-routed  :tard:

nevertheless, that will be a beautiful guitar  :icon_thumright:

 

[wolf5150]

What's with the chip in front of the high E and B string bridge mounting screw holes ?????  :doh:

 

[Mor Paul]

What's with the chip in front of the high E and B string bridge mounting screw holes ?????  :doh:

That's for the grounding wire for the bridge. It's a hole.

 

[smjenkins]

This is going to be a hard tail (like Billy's official Fender sig guitar) and that's for the bridge ground wire.

Patrick, personally I don't feel a strat is a strat without a pickguard.  I've seen many rear-routed strats that are quite beautiful, but they just don't look like a strat to me.  

 

[Patrick]

i know its just one thing im not a fan of (like floyds), and plus it is a corgan copy so it wouldn't look like his strat at all without a pg

 

[Finch]

so your going to do matching pg and pickup covers/knobs and not the black/white inversion that the Corgan Sig uses?

 

[smjenkins]

Yeah, going for black controls and p/u covers on black pickguard.  I think the inverse works well on the black and white body colors that the Fender model comes with but with the flame top, the contrast is just too busy.

 

[Cagey]

That is one beautiful body. Warmoth's neck-to-body fits are tight, almost like an interference fit. But, that's actually a Good Thing. You wouldn't want it going in the other direction.