stoopid wiring question

[m4rk0]

On the below diagram is this a 'top view'?

in other words when wiring from the back, should I read it in reverse/mirror?

also, does anybody have a better diagram for 2 x hum 1v 1t 4 way ???

 

[line6man]

That's what it looks like viewing the control plate from the back.
(In other words, when you take the plate off of the guitar and flip it over so you can see the pots.)

I'm not sure how you got the idea that it would be viewed any differently.

 

[Soylent]

I can answer that one.. the connector pins on our 4 way are exactly flipped of the ones in the diagram..

 

[tfarny]

Simplest explanation: you're looking at the bottom of the pots.

 

[m4rk0]

Simplest explanation: you're looking at the bottom of the pots.

that is what I am used to... not that I have done that many wirings yet, but this one is driving me crazy!

We wired 2 teles according to this diagram.
the first the way it is.. so as if we are looking at the bottom of the pots, except for the pickups are on the other side ofcourse, and the pins on the 4 way are in a different order than on the pic.

since it didn't really work properly (the bridge was on on all positions) we decided the flip it for the 2nd tele.
this time ended up even worse. Neck worked on most positions, the volume worked in reverse!! and the bridge only worked on the 'inbetween positions.. and by that I mean in between the 1st & 2nd, 2nd and 3th, 3th and 4th!

what the hell happened?

 

[m4rk0]

just for clarification, if you look at most other (seymour duncan or any other) diagrams, it shows you the way the wiring looks from the back...

Like this one: http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=1h_1s_1h_1v_1t_5w
the one for the tele obviously doesn't, unless it was a left handed tele...

 

[m4rk0]

more clarification...

our 4 way looks like this from the top:

also the fact that the top of the diagram says 4 way and at the switch it says 3 way is driving my crazy.. even though that is probably just a typo.

 

[blue313]

You should look physically at the switch as you move the lever.  You need to know where the wiper is making contact.  More importantly where the common lugs are (which terminals make contact in all positions.)

Here's the diagram I used to wire my Tele up.
http://www.singlecoil.com/docs/4way.pdf

 

[m4rk0]

thanks blue,
it;s kind of hard to see where it makes contact. you can really only see what is making contact on one side - not on the inside.


Any Other advise? remember we can't show you finished pics until we get some help on this

 

[blue313]

Set a meter to a high Ohm setting and test for continuity across the terminals.

If you dont have a meter; some wire, a battery, and a lightbulb from an old flashlight will work too.  Light goes on, you have continuity.

 

[DocNrock]

Set a meter to a high Ohm setting and test for continuity across the terminals.

If you dont have a meter; some wire, a battery, and a lightbulb from an old flashlight will work too.  Light goes on, you have continuity.

+1.  That diagram should be just as advertised.  If it doesn't work, try another one.  Also, make sure that the lugs from your switch make sense relative to the one in the diagram.

 

[Patrick from Davis]

I ran into the problem that the tabs to solder to were as it looks in the diagram, but the wiring was soldered to it in a mirror image of what is shown.  It really messed with my bearings while wiring it.  I had to get the continuity meter and check because my brain kept screaming that it was backwards.  Turned out that was the way to do it.  Good luck.
Patrick

 

[m4rk0]

Haha! 5 minutes with a 3 way switch and all problems are solved.

I am going to take some time and follow you guys' advise for the other tele
and with I, I really mean Luke... :icon_biggrin:

 

[rightintheface]

i followed that exact diagram with my first W and had the exact same result: a confused feeling and reversed volume pots  :icon_scratch: :icon_scratch: :icon_scratch:

i ended up completely scrapping the diagram and going by theory alone, with i think the SD seperate diagrams for switches and looking at the wiring in my sg  :tard:

then i realised that i didn't like slidey switches so i changed it for a 3way and never had a problem again  :icon_thumright: much simpler IMO. even though i've gone through a couple, as they seem to die on me  :icon_scratch: dunno why. i DO know that i desperately need a new soldering iron/solder wire. my joints always turn out cold.

anyone got a quick hint for a good wattage soldering iron for guitaring? i was using my dads old one, no idea the watts. and i can't remember the "optimal" solder ratio... :icon_scratch: anyone care to enlighten me?

 

[blue313]

I'm using a Weller WLC100 at the moment, and I have zero complaints since you can dial in up to 40 watts.  And 60/40 rosin core solder is the ticket.

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-Soldering-Hobbyist-Yourselfer/dp/B000AS28UC

 

[Patrick from Davis]

I use a weller 25 (actually it says 23 watt on the side) watt iron.  For the bigger joints like the back of a pot you have to let it warm up for a while, but it seems to handle most everything.  The other thing is a good tip will make soldering much easier.  I used to reshape the burn out tips with a dremel and a drill (lathe style) but they don't last very long.  A new one will last longer, heat faster, and perform much better.  Good luck
Patrick

 

[mayfly]

I'm using a nice weller 60W temperature controlled iron.  The temp stays where you put it, but it's got the jam to heat up that pot in a hurry if required.  I went through years of crappy irons because I figured I could not justify the price.  Oh I was a fool...

I'm also a big fan of Kester 60/40 with the '44' formula rosin core.  0.062 diameter.  I've been through many rolls of this stuff - nary a cold joint.

 

[m4rk0]

i followed that exact diagram with my first W and had the exact same result: a confused feeling and reversed volume pots  :icon_scratch: :icon_scratch: :icon_scratch:

i ended up completely scrapping the diagram and going by theory alone, with i think the SD seperate diagrams for switches and looking at the wiring in my sg  :tard:

then i realised that i didn't like slidey switches so i changed it for a 3way and never had a problem again  :icon_thumright: much simpler IMO. even though i've gone through a couple, as they seem to die on me  :icon_scratch: dunno why. i DO know that i desperately need a new soldering iron/solder wire. my joints always turn out cold.

anyone got a quick hint for a good wattage soldering iron for guitaring? i was using my dads old one, no idea the watts. and i can't remember the "optimal" solder ratio... :icon_scratch: anyone care to enlighten me?

Ahh its such a relief I wasn't the only one to have troubles with that diagram!!

 

[ocguy106]

http://shop.willyselectronics.com/browse.cfm/4,7370.htm

Here is what I use and I will never look back!!!!

 

[dbw]

http://shop.willyselectronics.com/browse.cfm/4,7370.htm

Here is what I use and I will never look back!!!!

That looks really cool...