Small Gecko 5 fretless


Hi there,

This is my second Gecko.

Some specs:
- neck is from the showcase - indian rosewood with wenge stripes and ebony board
- beech wood fretlines
- walnut body with natural oil finish
- Hipshot A style bridge
- Warwick tuners
- Warwick Just-a-nut I brass nut
- EMG-40TW pickup in the "sweet pot"
- vol/tone controls (vol is push/pull for coil splitting)
- gabon ebony knobs
- schaller straplocks

Some pics with comments:

Front and back:

Body front and back. There is some use wear above the pickup. The disadvantages of oil finish... :icon_biggrin: The cavity cover will be replaced by a walnut one and will be upgraded with black screws.

Headstock front. D'addario Chromes are great strings for a fretless (and the SLs are long enough for a 35" through-body stringing) but that blue clothing drives me crazy! :sad:

Headstock back. Warwick tuners are 100% the same as Gotoh ones. Only cheaper...

Fretlines and the Gecko inlay. Warmoth offers only maple or ebony lines. I thought a wood that is a tad darker than maple is better for this bass so I made those lines myself. I used beech wood.

The gabon ebony wood knobs are from Mr. Brian Williams' ebay shop. He makes very nice knobs so check his items! The volume is push/pull for coil splitting.

The Neutrik locking jack almost fits in a standard 7/8 jack hole, only a little rasp work required.

Nery nice. Makes me wish I played bass enough to spend the money on a gecko build.
Very nice indeed!

I've got a fretless Medium 5 with the same neck woods - indian rosewood and wenge - and the tone is amazing.

How much work is it to inlay the fretless lines by yourself?

I've seen the wooden knob store on eBay that you talked about.  I almost ordered some for myself, but I ended up sticking with chrome.
tubby.twins said:
How much work is it to inlay the fretless lines by yourself?

It was not a big thing, since the slots were already there. I made the inlays of beech veneer. Some corrections made with a wood putty of the same colour. For the final sanding and leveling I used a radiused sanding block from Stewart MacDonald.