Shellac & Minwax wipeon . The simple finish

[fretless]

http://www.shellac.net/ShellacPricing.html
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/interior-clear-protective-finishes/minwax-wipeon-poly

Use dewaxed if you plan to shoot nitro or any other finish over it . I always use the dewaxed flake for ease of use when making it. It's super simple just brush it on dries in 20 min , flip it over and brush the other side . I use mason jars from the hardware store and leave it in the kitchen to dissolve , it can take almost a week to dissolve so start ahead of the build , then strain it with a paint filter into a clean jar.Do a few wash coats and move on to your preferred finish . You could just keep on using Shellac , like a fine acoustic or violin maker would . Use a Platina for almost water clear no color or mix any of the shades together for your preference . Shellac dries very quickly and does't seep in and saturate the wood like a oil finish can , some say this is better for tone .You can tru-oil over it but I've come to love Minwax wipe-on poly . It dries in a couple hours , can be sanded or simply steelwool'd and leaves a stunning natural and protective finish that really brings out the natural beauty of the wood . It doesn't stink as much though both Shellac and MWWO  should be done with excellent ventilation Shellac uses 190 Proof - Denatured Alcohol and the vapor will get you so high you should not drive. http://www.shellac.net/alcohol.html
  It's also cheap and one can would do many many instruments . I've come to prefer it over tru-oil as well , especially the satin for both bodies and necks . A instrument can be finished in one day with final buffing or sanding the next day and waxed for a stunning glow . Simple cheap , easy .  So if you like a natural finish , like a Seagull guitar or some nice satin finishes you see try it . I have also used only Minwax and it worked perfectly and only Shellac and that is fine as well but I like the grain enhancing and protection of both the most .  :glasses9:

Some instruments I've finished

Precision kit ,Shellac Platina wash coat , Minwax wipeon satin finish




Renegade body Warmoth neck tele , Shellac Blonde with Minwax wipeon


Renegade body / Warmoth LP neck ,Shellac Blonde & Garnet mix , MWWO




Warmoth Snakehead , Shellac Super blonde w/ MWWO




Warmoth 32" SC w/ Padouk neck .Shellac Super Blonde and wax only





The orange color actually dies the Shellac and so I had to use a different jar of it for the body  :icon_biggrin:

Warmoth 32" J finished by Joe \m/
Joe used Minwax wipeon Glossy on this onepiece Walnut & Ziricote neck







'51 Poplar P , Shellac super blonde w/ Minwax wipeon

 

[fretless]

Please share your tips and experiences with these if you'd be so kind  :glasses9: I'll start with.. Use a Platina or Super blonde Shellac as a wash coat first . If you go right to one of the darker colors like Ruby or Garnet it could streak the wood  , just like it would if you wiped dye on a unprepared piece .Shellac melts into itself , much like Nitro forming one hard coating . Many gigging musicians may back away from a Shellac only finish . if it gets alcohol on it it would melt it . But that also allows for easy repairs of the finish . Still I'd recommend a more durable finish over that . Like the wipe-on .

 

[Day-mun]

Darn fine thread ya started here, fretless! I've got a lot to learn in this area of building, so I'm looking forward to the wealth of knowledge that is bound to come pouring in!  :icon_thumright:

-Wish I had another project cookin' to try some of these methods on, but my household income just went in half, and I don't think it would go over too well to be poppin' showcase items outa my paycheck in front of my better half right now.  :sad:

But I can certainly get some vicarious  satisfaction in the meantime with all the yummy pics ya posted! 

 

[fretless]

Thanks Day-mun !  :guitarplayer2:

 

[Day-mun]

I'll throw in a question (or two) here: The product label's directions for use and precautions on the shellac (-at least on the brand that is at my local hardware store) states that it is not recommended for use under polyurethane finishes; are there different kinds that are that are not available at my local store? How about shellac (-Bullseye is the brand; and they have clear and amber available) under Deft brand satin lacquer? -I've heard good things about that stuff, but, again product labels advise not to mix-n-match these.

In short, -how does the novice know when to follow the manufacturer's instructions and when to break the rules.  :icon_scratch:

 

[fretless]

Good question as I'm pretty much a manual reader / direction follower I'd probably not do it . I have no experience with any of the pre-made stuff so I cannot not say for sure but perhaps it is not "dewaxed" which would cause adhesion problems .

 

[tenpointnine]

:kewlpics: Love the satin finish on the bodies. How difficult would this be for a noob with minimal woodworking skills?

 

[Day-mun]

-Funny, there is a pretty good thread goin' in DIY Finishing right now about some of this very same stuff. A new guy wants his alder body to look like it has no finish (natural)! -Wonder if he has seen your pics, Fretless...  :laughing7:

 

[fretless]

:kewlpics: Love the satin finish on the bodies. How difficult would this be for a noob with minimal woodworking skills?

Thanks ! you are looking at the work of a noOb with minimal skills , 'cept for Joe's finish on my Walnut J  :glasses9: a few things to note , I like to mix up several jars of Shellac , some different colors as well so you can mix it later . Shellac dissolves over several days so stir it a couple times a day to stir up the big gummy mass it turns into to help speed it along . Don't leave it open as it's mostly alcohol and it will evaporate quick . get ready for a alcohol vapor buzz , hard to avoid , ooof ah . Warning! This stuff is highly flammable , do not leave the rags bunched up as they will spontaneous combust  . One should lay the rags out flat to dry before disposing of  and pour out the left over shellac , and not on a fire .. Fresh Shellac has a shelf life of about 6 months give or take so you could save it for a while . You don't need any tools other than some fine sandpaper and steel wool , some paint stirring sticks and jars . Perhaps rubber gloves . I keep extra alcohol around and naphtha for cleaning and wiping off after sanding . Dust mask couldn't hurt . hmm.. what else..

 

[fretless]

-Funny, there is a pretty good thread goin' in DIY Finishing right now about some of this very same stuff. A new guy wants his alder body to look like it has no finish (natural)! -Wonder if he has seen your pics, Fretless...  :laughing7:

yup MWWO no question , with or without Shellac