RSA red trans bass with PF neck

[ghotiphry]

I'm a-searching.  I'm not finding anything.  Black oxide, oval head, 8-32, 1-3/4" machine screws.  I do find 1-1/4", 1-1/2", and 2-1/2 inch sizes, but not 1-3/4".  Anything I find in 1-3/4" length is not black oxide, I have found stainless and zinc finished only.

 

[rgand]

You can always shorten longer ones to the appropriate length.

 

[ghotiphry]

You can always shorten longer ones to the appropriate length.

I've never had much luck doing this without buggering up the threads.  Besides, I really don't want 1,500 of them.

http://www.fastenersuperstore.com/products/415846/machine-screws?pid=17311

 

[rgand]

You can always shorten longer ones to the appropriate length.

I've never had much luck doing this without buggering up the threads.  Besides, I really don't want 1,500 of them.

http://www.fastenersuperstore.com/products/415846/machine-screws?pid=17311

Well, you'd be set for the next 374 necks, too... :icon_biggrin:

 

[ghotiphry]

You can always shorten longer ones to the appropriate length.

I've never had much luck doing this without buggering up the threads.  Besides, I really don't want 1,500 of them.

http://www.fastenersuperstore.com/products/415846/machine-screws?pid=17311

Well, you'd be set for the next 374 necks, too... :icon_biggrin:

Hah, well good point.  Or, maybe 375 chances to get one set right.

 

[rgand]

You can always shorten longer ones to the appropriate length.

I've never had much luck doing this without buggering up the threads.  Besides, I really don't want 1,500 of them.

http://www.fastenersuperstore.com/products/415846/machine-screws?pid=17311

Well, you'd be set for the next 374 necks, too... :icon_biggrin:

Hah, well good point.  Or, maybe 375 chances to get one set right.

Actually, the way I do it is to thread a nut on first. Cut it, file the tip to a slight taper then remove the nut and it straightens out the threads.

 

[ghotiphry]

You can always shorten longer ones to the appropriate length.

I've never had much luck doing this without buggering up the threads.  Besides, I really don't want 1,500 of them.

http://www.fastenersuperstore.com/products/415846/machine-screws?pid=17311

Well, you'd be set for the next 374 necks, too... :icon_biggrin:

Hah, well good point.  Or, maybe 375 chances to get one set right.

Actually, the way I do it is to thread a nut on first. Cut it, file the tip to a slight taper then remove the nut and it straightens out the threads.

Thanks for the tip!  I never knew that...  Now if I could just find a box of 100, i'd try it out.

 

[ghotiphry]

Nope.  Stainless neck screws it is.  I could find a box of 1500 of them (black oxide oval head machine screws full thread 8-32 at 2-1/2"), but not less than that.  I'm good with the stainless.

 

[rgand]

That will look fine. I wouldn't buy 1500 of them, either.

 

[Cagey]

The screws are Phillips oval head #8-32 x 1 3/4" or 1 1/2" machine screws (shorter screws for part of contoured heel). Stainless are less likely to gall and have lower galvanic response in a brass insert.

 

[bagman67]

I knew I had solved this problem once before a few years back when Cagey went looking for black machine screws for this application.


http://www.aaronsmachinescrews.com/database/search-machine-screws.htm


Search on shaft size #8, threads per inch=32, length 1 3/4", finish black oxide/waxed, oval head, and whammo, there you go.  You can get a packet of 10 for $24.27 USD.


That's a lot for 10 screws, but maybe if Cagey were to, say, go into business doing a lot of these, the box of 100 at $40.35 would be more attractive.

 

[Cagey]

Maybe that's what stopped me the last time - price. Stainless comes in at $14/C, and I need 2 sizes. So, $28 vs. $80. I'd eat it if I were using more of them.

 

[DangerousR6]

Very cool Hans, that's gonna be one sweet bass... :headbang:

 

[Verne Bunsen]

http://www.aaronsmachinescrews.com/database/search-machine-screws.htm

What a wonderful link! Bookmarked  :icon_thumright:

 

[ghotiphry]

I bookmarked it too.  Okay, let me think.  I really don't mind the stainless.  So it's a trade off between the aesthetic of black screw heads and $25 and what Cagey said about the galvanic reaction...  And I really don't want them to cold weld.

By the way, the damn bridge screws were wrong, so I'm still stuck with chrome bridge mount screws.

Thanks, Doug!

 

[Logrinn]

... Stainless are less likely to gall and have lower galvanic response in a brass insert...

Of course ... everybody knows that ... ??? :icon_scratch:






:toothy12:

 

[Cagey]

When you have a nut/bolt combination that doesn't want to release, you are quite likely experiencing:

Galling is a form of wear caused by adhesion between sliding surfaces. When a material galls, some of it is pulled with the contacting surface, especially if there is a large amount of force compressing the surfaces together. Galling is caused by a combination of friction and adhesion between the surfaces, followed by slipping and tearing of crystal structure beneath the surface. This will generally leave some material stuck or even friction welded to the adjacent surface, whereas the galled material may appear gouged with balled-up or torn lumps of material stuck to its surface.

Galling is most commonly found in metal surfaces that are in sliding contact with each other. It is especially common where there is inadequate lubrication between the surfaces. However, certain metals will generally be more prone to galling, due to the atomic structure of their crystals. For example, aluminium is a metal that will gall very easily, whereas annealed (softened) steel is slightly more resistant to galling. Steel that is fully hardened is very resistant to galling.

re: Wikipedia

Seized bolts can also be the result of the galvanic response that produces corrosion at the inner faces of the joint. It's actually an electrical thing, with ions moving around and such. This occurs when you have dissimilar metals in contact, like brass/steel, etc. Some metal combinations react more than others.

Finally, we get back to another favorite word group here: plastic deformation. Pressure, tension and/or heat will take metals to the "plastic" point between liquid/solid where it's soft and easily deformed. Galling gets a lot easier then, and parts will actually weld themselves together (aka "friction welding"). It's not a good weld, but it's enough to defy attempts to separate parts without heroic measures.

Beyond the tighter joint that they provide, an advantage of using theaded inserts and machine screws for neck attachment is it gives you a non-wearing fastening scheme to make assembly/disassembly easier. So, you wouldn't want the screw to seize up in the insert.

 

[rgand]

Finally, we get back to another favorite word group here: plastic deformation. Pressure, tension and/or heat will take metals to the "plastic" point between liquid/solid where it's soft and easily deformed. Galling gets a lot easier then, and parts will actually weld themselves together (aka "friction welding"). It's not a good weld, but it's enough to defy attempts to separate parts without heroic measures.

Been to that place. It isn't pretty. Of course, things don't come loose... :tard: :laughing7:

 

[ghotiphry]

Yeah, anyone who's worked on a car knows about cold welding.  If you've tried to remove a rusted bolt, it's better to soak it in WD40 or something and give it time for the lubricant to wick its way in.  If you try to remove it without you're actually grinding the bolt and the nut together, making the problem worse, as the rust has then given you an uneven surface scraping against another uneven surface.  Forcing it often results in a snapped bolt head, which most attribute to the rust, but can also be a form of cold welding.

Good thing: stainless steel and brass don't rust.  Another good thing: you don't have to worry about it if you're screwing into wood.

 

[Steve_Karl]

Okay, first things first.  Here's the neck!  Cagey has it now!

That's really nice looking!

What is Cagey doing to it other than the polishing and the inserts?