Fender.Fan
Junior Member
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I know you’re supposed to drill slightly larger holes than usual for tuners, string trees, etc. but is it recommended for mounting holes too? Or will they be fine since they’re in a pocket? Thanks guys
Roasted maple mounting holes
- Thread starter Fender.Fan
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Cagey
Mythical Status
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Warmoth drills those holes for a #8 wood screw, so they should be fine. I've not had any trouble, but I rarely use them except as locators to drill out for threaded inserts. I don't oversize the holes for the inserts, either. Supposed to be 1/4", and that's what I use. Haven't had any trouble with those either, and there have been quite a few go through here now.
Logrinn
Hero Member
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I too haven't had problems with the mounting holes in necks being too narrow. The screws I've ordered with the necks screws right in with the aid of a little bees wax.
BUT ...
If you have a body with a contoured heel the holes in the neck might be too short!
I had a contoured heel on a 7/8 Tele body. That means 2 things. You need to have shorter screws for the two forward screws. BUT the two other screws are the normal length. AND the hole in the body nearest the cutaway and furthest back is also slightly shorter since the contour reaches a bit here as well. That means that this longer, "normal" screw hits the "bottom" of the pilot/mounting hole when you screw it in. This hole needs to be drillled an additional 2 mm or there about (absolutely not more than that or you'll drill right through to the fretboard). Then it's no problem screwing in that screw even if it's a roasted maple neck.
I had a Bloodwood (twice as hard as maple) neck and cracked it when I screwed in this screw because the mounting hole wasn't deep enough. :sad1:
BUT ...
If you have a body with a contoured heel the holes in the neck might be too short!
I had a contoured heel on a 7/8 Tele body. That means 2 things. You need to have shorter screws for the two forward screws. BUT the two other screws are the normal length. AND the hole in the body nearest the cutaway and furthest back is also slightly shorter since the contour reaches a bit here as well. That means that this longer, "normal" screw hits the "bottom" of the pilot/mounting hole when you screw it in. This hole needs to be drillled an additional 2 mm or there about (absolutely not more than that or you'll drill right through to the fretboard). Then it's no problem screwing in that screw even if it's a roasted maple neck.
I had a Bloodwood (twice as hard as maple) neck and cracked it when I screwed in this screw because the mounting hole wasn't deep enough. :sad1:
davegardner0
Senior Member
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- 240
You could consider "tapping" the mounting holes (cutting the threads) before putting the screws in, to eliminate all risk of cracking. Check out my old post here. The text before and after the 4th image in this post explains what I did.
fyi this method also works for tuner screw holes, etc., and they all go in super smooth and tight with no stress on the wood.
fyi this method also works for tuner screw holes, etc., and they all go in super smooth and tight with no stress on the wood.
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