Roasted Alder Koa Top Tele build....
- Thread starter KOABUILD
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KOABUILD
Junior Member
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Broke in my new Hipshot Ibby high mass hardtail; much much nicer than when I recieved it, Rounded the sharp corners and sharp edges so resting my hand against the bridge is as comfortable as an old pair of sneakers..... now playing my guitar will be fun and enjoyable.
I have found that when I go through a guitar piece by piece and smooth and soften as many rough areas as possible, it changes the guitar from being a really good guitar to being a really great guitar, of course I have the time to work on just one part at a time as I get them, I know some guys are building for a living and it may not be productive time wise, but you'll never convince me of that, once you've picked up a guitar that feels smooth as butter in everyway you'll find yourself going back to it over and over, which to me would be the whole point (or should I say "NON-Point-y", yeah I just said that ...) of building guitars for other people to buy; as a reflection of superior craftsmanship.
I smoothed the string thru holes to prevent string breakage where the strings pass thru the bridge, as well as, the two mounting holes in preperation of the 8/32" Stainless Steel machine screws and inserts I'm going to sink into the body for mounting purposes, the inserts and machine screws hadn't arrived yet so I used Neck screws in the pics to show compatibility.
I know wearing the parts isn't everyones cup of tea, but it makes every guitar I build special to me, I try to spend as much time and intimate attention to detail in every area and at every stage of the build that I can, so that in the end the guitar truly is an old friend.
The tools for the job:
Flat files, needle files and sanding sponges.
Making sure the 8/32" machine screws for the threaded inserts Im using to mount the bridge to the body will slide through the mounting holes, I used Neck screws for reference until the machine screws and inserts arrive. just a note: it didnt take much to get these to fit, just smoothing the holes was enough.
Very sharp edges where the strings pass through the bridge plate, yikes! that can't be good.
Rounding all the string through holes so the strings don't get cut or break on the sharp edges on their way from the ferrules to the saddles.
you can see how rounded and smooth the pass through holes are now. Yay!
Very sharp edges and pointy corners all along the top where the adjustment screws pass thru the back of the bridge... flesh shredding, not on my watch...
Very pointy and sharp corners at the sides where the hand slides back and forth... ouch!. Not gonna happen.
The sharp base plate edges already scratched my guitar once just laying it on for reference, not gonna happen again.
This bridge may no longer be Black, but it is a premium functioning piece of hardware maximized for performance now.
I have found that when I go through a guitar piece by piece and smooth and soften as many rough areas as possible, it changes the guitar from being a really good guitar to being a really great guitar, of course I have the time to work on just one part at a time as I get them, I know some guys are building for a living and it may not be productive time wise, but you'll never convince me of that, once you've picked up a guitar that feels smooth as butter in everyway you'll find yourself going back to it over and over, which to me would be the whole point (or should I say "NON-Point-y", yeah I just said that ...) of building guitars for other people to buy; as a reflection of superior craftsmanship.
I smoothed the string thru holes to prevent string breakage where the strings pass thru the bridge, as well as, the two mounting holes in preperation of the 8/32" Stainless Steel machine screws and inserts I'm going to sink into the body for mounting purposes, the inserts and machine screws hadn't arrived yet so I used Neck screws in the pics to show compatibility.
I know wearing the parts isn't everyones cup of tea, but it makes every guitar I build special to me, I try to spend as much time and intimate attention to detail in every area and at every stage of the build that I can, so that in the end the guitar truly is an old friend.
The tools for the job:
Flat files, needle files and sanding sponges.
Making sure the 8/32" machine screws for the threaded inserts Im using to mount the bridge to the body will slide through the mounting holes, I used Neck screws for reference until the machine screws and inserts arrive. just a note: it didnt take much to get these to fit, just smoothing the holes was enough.
Very sharp edges where the strings pass through the bridge plate, yikes! that can't be good.
Rounding all the string through holes so the strings don't get cut or break on the sharp edges on their way from the ferrules to the saddles.
you can see how rounded and smooth the pass through holes are now. Yay!
Very sharp edges and pointy corners all along the top where the adjustment screws pass thru the back of the bridge... flesh shredding, not on my watch...
Very pointy and sharp corners at the sides where the hand slides back and forth... ouch!. Not gonna happen.
The sharp base plate edges already scratched my guitar once just laying it on for reference, not gonna happen again.
This bridge may no longer be Black, but it is a premium functioning piece of hardware maximized for performance now.
rgand
Epic Member
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- 5,934
I like what you did with the smoothing. It makes a really attractive bridge. If you want it black, Birchwood Casey Super Blue can turn it black again if you want that. Note the trigger guard:
The loading lever was modified, too, but it's the same gun.
The loading lever was modified, too, but it's the same gun.
KOABUILD
Junior Member
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- 78
Thank you Rgand, I appreciate that tip, I think I'm going to take you up on that suggestion, I have always wanted to try Gun Bluing guitar parts, but I had bought mostly Stainless Steel parts that didn't accept the Bluing, I had forgotten that I could apply that idea here, so thanks very much. Should be interesting to see how it turns out...love to experiment with New ideas...:icon_thumright:
p.s. love the revolver.
p.s. love the revolver.
Verne Bunsen
Hero Member
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I rather like the aesthetics of the bridge as it is, but the bluing should be very cool. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out!
KOABUILD
Junior Member
- Messages
- 78
Got around to prepping the body for mounting the Hipshot Ibby hardtail bridge.
The Hipshot High Mass bridge string through holes line up center for center of Warmoths Ferrule holes, however I had ordered Warmoth's Fender American Standard bridge mounting pattern on this body.
To make this bridge work on top I had to drill out the string through holes to 1/4" or 6.35mm.....I had to do the same thing last time I mounted a Hipshot bridge on a body I had ordered with the "Warmoth String through holes only" option that they offered then, (which Im sure you can still get if you request it).
Note: it can be made to work without using 1/4" on every string through hole, but I like a perfect unimpeded line of travel from ferrule to saddles.
I won't be able to drill for the mounting holes to place the bridge in position until the Neck arrives as its necessary for me to line the strings up over the pickups and along the neck edges and center dots to find the proper placement, something I learned awhile ago, at least not with the cave man tools and methods I use...
Im rebuilding my shop setup so Im not fully equiped with all the jigs and resources to expedite the process.
So heres todays progress.
Painters tape is great for protecting the guitar from slips with the drill bit (I found that out today...lol..)and it dosn't leave a heavy sticky residue on the body, I used a Bradpoint bit with a depth stop so I didn't drill too deep and hit the ferrules which I left in so I could gauge my progress, I wanted to be able to see a perfect line to the ferrule hole center so I knew the strings would run unimpeded from the ferrule to the saddle.
The slim pointed tip dowels standing straight in the ferrule holes show the strings clearance and straight line of travel from the ferrule hole centers to the bridge saddles, I couldnt get a pic that showed the ferrules from the top of the body although they are easy to see with the wider 1/4" string through holes, my camera as expensive as it is confounds me.
That shiny metal near the holes is the flat soldered tip of the bridge grounding wire.
The Hipshot High Mass bridge string through holes line up center for center of Warmoths Ferrule holes, however I had ordered Warmoth's Fender American Standard bridge mounting pattern on this body.
To make this bridge work on top I had to drill out the string through holes to 1/4" or 6.35mm.....I had to do the same thing last time I mounted a Hipshot bridge on a body I had ordered with the "Warmoth String through holes only" option that they offered then, (which Im sure you can still get if you request it).
Note: it can be made to work without using 1/4" on every string through hole, but I like a perfect unimpeded line of travel from ferrule to saddles.
I won't be able to drill for the mounting holes to place the bridge in position until the Neck arrives as its necessary for me to line the strings up over the pickups and along the neck edges and center dots to find the proper placement, something I learned awhile ago, at least not with the cave man tools and methods I use...
Im rebuilding my shop setup so Im not fully equiped with all the jigs and resources to expedite the process.
So heres todays progress.
Painters tape is great for protecting the guitar from slips with the drill bit (I found that out today...lol..)and it dosn't leave a heavy sticky residue on the body, I used a Bradpoint bit with a depth stop so I didn't drill too deep and hit the ferrules which I left in so I could gauge my progress, I wanted to be able to see a perfect line to the ferrule hole center so I knew the strings would run unimpeded from the ferrule to the saddle.
The slim pointed tip dowels standing straight in the ferrule holes show the strings clearance and straight line of travel from the ferrule hole centers to the bridge saddles, I couldnt get a pic that showed the ferrules from the top of the body although they are easy to see with the wider 1/4" string through holes, my camera as expensive as it is confounds me.
That shiny metal near the holes is the flat soldered tip of the bridge grounding wire.
KOABUILD
Junior Member
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- 78
As usual Warmoth has blown my mind and already sent me notice for delivery of my showcase neck, this after less than a week and after installing the Stainless Steel frets, drilled for Gotoh tuners and installed a Graph Tech Black Tusq XL Earvana nut.....thank you very much guys, I think your the best company for guitar necks and bodies in the world, and the coolest bunch of guys and gals a musician could hope to have on their side. Thanks again.
I will obviously be posting pics asap..so stay tuned for that.
I ordered some Steel Fender Offset saddles to replace the Hipshot Ibby high mass bridge saddles, an issue I had posted about earlier in the thread, in my opinion they left something to be desired,.... so heres the pics and the 8-32 X 1.25" stainless steel machine screws and threaded inserts I will be using to mount the bridge.
I didnt like the lack of steel at the rear of the saddles,.... I understand the need to keep the saddles out of the way of the strings.... so be it, but if I dont have to give up that precious steel there I would rather not.
So I bought these Fender Steel saddles to replace them, they were just a tad wider than the Hipshot original saddles, so they fit the bridge even better, in my opinion; as there is less play between them, though still enough to function smoothly.
Heres the stainless steel threaded inserts and 8-32 X 1.75" Machine screws going into the neck for mounting the Neck to the body; the neck arrives Friday, I'm so excited...
Heres the stainless steel threaded inserts and 8-32 X 1.25" Machine screws that I will use to mount the bridge to the body; if all goes well these will be sunk into the body an inch, if they go in smoothly Im going to place 2 of the threaded inserts into each of the 2 mounting holes in hopes that the bridge and body coupling results in maximum resonance.......overkill ? .....of course, .......but obsession with detail is the name of the game in this town....lol :toothy12:
These heavy steel Fender saddles are a perfect replacement part for this bridge; added to the Hipshot Ibby's heavy brass bridge plate and it truly is a High Mass bridge, now Im happy. :icon_thumright:
waiting on this Birchwood Casey Gun Bluing to arrive; and then Im going to Blacken the bridge and maybe the saddles so they match my design plan better; the bridge looks cool brassed out but it dosnt really match the overall design.... plus I get to play with gun Bluing, that sounds like alot of fun, I've never used it before so Im just dying to give it a go. :laughing7:
I will obviously be posting pics asap..so stay tuned for that.
I ordered some Steel Fender Offset saddles to replace the Hipshot Ibby high mass bridge saddles, an issue I had posted about earlier in the thread, in my opinion they left something to be desired,.... so heres the pics and the 8-32 X 1.25" stainless steel machine screws and threaded inserts I will be using to mount the bridge.
I didnt like the lack of steel at the rear of the saddles,.... I understand the need to keep the saddles out of the way of the strings.... so be it, but if I dont have to give up that precious steel there I would rather not.
So I bought these Fender Steel saddles to replace them, they were just a tad wider than the Hipshot original saddles, so they fit the bridge even better, in my opinion; as there is less play between them, though still enough to function smoothly.
Heres the stainless steel threaded inserts and 8-32 X 1.75" Machine screws going into the neck for mounting the Neck to the body; the neck arrives Friday, I'm so excited...
Heres the stainless steel threaded inserts and 8-32 X 1.25" Machine screws that I will use to mount the bridge to the body; if all goes well these will be sunk into the body an inch, if they go in smoothly Im going to place 2 of the threaded inserts into each of the 2 mounting holes in hopes that the bridge and body coupling results in maximum resonance.......overkill ? .....of course, .......but obsession with detail is the name of the game in this town....lol :toothy12:
These heavy steel Fender saddles are a perfect replacement part for this bridge; added to the Hipshot Ibby's heavy brass bridge plate and it truly is a High Mass bridge, now Im happy. :icon_thumright:
waiting on this Birchwood Casey Gun Bluing to arrive; and then Im going to Blacken the bridge and maybe the saddles so they match my design plan better; the bridge looks cool brassed out but it dosnt really match the overall design.... plus I get to play with gun Bluing, that sounds like alot of fun, I've never used it before so Im just dying to give it a go. :laughing7:
KOABUILD
Junior Member
- Messages
- 78
So I stained the Neck.....said heck with it and went with the direct on the wood approach, I already knew that it would be blotchy due to the heavy burns from the Roasted process that were evident when I first saw and purchased this neck, which probably had alot to do with the $197 price tag, but Im a sucker for that old school thinking... that Roasted vintage modern construction must somehow get me closer to those old vintage tones.....blah blah blah
As expected it is blotchy but I do like the rustic look and hardcore effect, it also probably had alot to do with my sanding of the neck prior to staining; to better fit my grip, which now feels very meaty but comfortable, more of an SRV offset than a Boatneck which is what I originally wanted....more meat near the thumb a little less under the fingers,I put a slight roll on the fretboard and its very comfortable, feels awesome I cant wait to play on it.
I could have tried a prestain conditioner but I wasnt as concerned about uniformity as I was character.....but overall Im pretty happy with the results though if I did this in the future I might purchase a neck that didnt have the Roasted burns..... or maybe I would deliberately for effect, anyway things to consider on future builds.....
I feel I could have done a better job on the steel insert install if I would have had a 17/64" th's bit at the time; as drilling the insert holes out to 1/4" left too much thread diameter and the Roasted Maple likes to crack/split or sliver any chance it can being that its so dry...oh and leave a couple of nasty slivers in your fingers if you get careless or anxious and wipe away the excess with your hands....
Still the inserts funtion great and it feels very obvious when you snug them just how much the neck and body really are one mass.
I also took the gloss off the Tru Oil finish to better match the neck and over all design plan, though it wasnt easy as I would have liked...word: Toothpaste as I read as a suggestion is a waste of time, did nothing....ended up going with the 90% consensus "0000 grit steel wool" and I used Formby's Lemon Oil Treatment as a lubricant while buffing with the steel wool, then cleaned it all up with a rag and Murphy's Oil Soap......but I must say..."your results may vary".... :laughing7:
As expected it is blotchy but I do like the rustic look and hardcore effect, it also probably had alot to do with my sanding of the neck prior to staining; to better fit my grip, which now feels very meaty but comfortable, more of an SRV offset than a Boatneck which is what I originally wanted....more meat near the thumb a little less under the fingers,I put a slight roll on the fretboard and its very comfortable, feels awesome I cant wait to play on it.
I could have tried a prestain conditioner but I wasnt as concerned about uniformity as I was character.....but overall Im pretty happy with the results though if I did this in the future I might purchase a neck that didnt have the Roasted burns..... or maybe I would deliberately for effect, anyway things to consider on future builds.....
I feel I could have done a better job on the steel insert install if I would have had a 17/64" th's bit at the time; as drilling the insert holes out to 1/4" left too much thread diameter and the Roasted Maple likes to crack/split or sliver any chance it can being that its so dry...oh and leave a couple of nasty slivers in your fingers if you get careless or anxious and wipe away the excess with your hands....
Still the inserts funtion great and it feels very obvious when you snug them just how much the neck and body really are one mass.
I also took the gloss off the Tru Oil finish to better match the neck and over all design plan, though it wasnt easy as I would have liked...word: Toothpaste as I read as a suggestion is a waste of time, did nothing....ended up going with the 90% consensus "0000 grit steel wool" and I used Formby's Lemon Oil Treatment as a lubricant while buffing with the steel wool, then cleaned it all up with a rag and Murphy's Oil Soap......but I must say..."your results may vary".... :laughing7:
KOABUILD
Junior Member
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- 78
Got the Gotoh 21:1 ratio Delta Locking Tuners today, had to order 2 sets of 3 X 3's to get the 21:1 ratio, they only offer the 18:1 gear ratio in the six inline set. (though you can special order thru the company or some of their dealers to get the 21:1 ratio on a six in line set; in which case I would also order the smaller six in line set knobs to go with them.)
Which I may buy a set of the six inline tuners and swap out the knobs for their smaller profile, but I used these in the past on a build and though they appear way too close sitting in a row, once you tune your guitar up the knobs dont sit so tight and the spacing dosnt feel so close, plus the 21:1 gear ratio is really nice, wouldn't seem like much of a difference but the accuracy and ability to hone in is apparent when tuning to pitch.
I went through and swapped out the knobs to make sure I had the smallest 6 of the group, in the case of manufacturing differences, which it did make some difference in the spacing.
Thought about selling the 6 Right side Tuners on E-BAY then it occured to me they would make the perfect excuse to build a Reverse Headstock Soloist, which I have always wanted to do....hmmmm Good thinking! :laughing7:
Gotoh 21:1 ratio Delta Locking tuners New production models with Locking wheel on the back in Antique Chrome.
Heres some pics of a build I had installed the previous version of Gotoh's 21:1 ratio Locking tuners for comparison, though the 21:1 version Tuner body and knobs size is noticably larger than the Six inline Set ( shown in the last 3 pics),you can see that in action though the Knobs and Tuner Body are closer spaced they perform just fine, and the the 21:1 ratio makes tuning to pitch feel more accurate and less sensitive in response due to the higher ratio.
Gotoh 21:1 ratio Delta Locking tuners past production models I used on this Strat build,(Antique Chrome version) these needed a coin or flat head to unlock the string for changes....
Above the 21:1 Six inline set.
Here below are some pics of the Gotoh Six in Line 18:1 Set, the smaller profile tuner body and knob size is immediately apparent, as is the difference in sensitivity when tuning to pitch...
Gotoh Six in Line 18:1 ratio Delta Locking tuners past production models I used on this Tele Deluxe build, these also needed a coin or flat head to unlock for string changes. (these came finished in Black, but I sanded off the Black paint to give a nicer aged look as I couldn't find the six inline set in Antique Chrome at the time.)
I love Gotoh, as far as Im concerened the 18:1 and 21:1 Gotoh Locking Tuners are the best manufactured after market locking tuners in the world.
Which I may buy a set of the six inline tuners and swap out the knobs for their smaller profile, but I used these in the past on a build and though they appear way too close sitting in a row, once you tune your guitar up the knobs dont sit so tight and the spacing dosnt feel so close, plus the 21:1 gear ratio is really nice, wouldn't seem like much of a difference but the accuracy and ability to hone in is apparent when tuning to pitch.
I went through and swapped out the knobs to make sure I had the smallest 6 of the group, in the case of manufacturing differences, which it did make some difference in the spacing.
Thought about selling the 6 Right side Tuners on E-BAY then it occured to me they would make the perfect excuse to build a Reverse Headstock Soloist, which I have always wanted to do....hmmmm Good thinking! :laughing7:
Gotoh 21:1 ratio Delta Locking tuners New production models with Locking wheel on the back in Antique Chrome.
Heres some pics of a build I had installed the previous version of Gotoh's 21:1 ratio Locking tuners for comparison, though the 21:1 version Tuner body and knobs size is noticably larger than the Six inline Set ( shown in the last 3 pics),you can see that in action though the Knobs and Tuner Body are closer spaced they perform just fine, and the the 21:1 ratio makes tuning to pitch feel more accurate and less sensitive in response due to the higher ratio.
Gotoh 21:1 ratio Delta Locking tuners past production models I used on this Strat build,(Antique Chrome version) these needed a coin or flat head to unlock the string for changes....
Above the 21:1 Six inline set.
Here below are some pics of the Gotoh Six in Line 18:1 Set, the smaller profile tuner body and knob size is immediately apparent, as is the difference in sensitivity when tuning to pitch...
Gotoh Six in Line 18:1 ratio Delta Locking tuners past production models I used on this Tele Deluxe build, these also needed a coin or flat head to unlock for string changes. (these came finished in Black, but I sanded off the Black paint to give a nicer aged look as I couldn't find the six inline set in Antique Chrome at the time.)
I love Gotoh, as far as Im concerened the 18:1 and 21:1 Gotoh Locking Tuners are the best manufactured after market locking tuners in the world.
KOABUILD
Junior Member
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- 78
Decided to file down the 3 X 3 Larger sized Gotoh Aluminum Knobs to get them in the ballpark of the 6 inline set knob size. I may go a bit further yet, alot more space between the knobs compared to when I got them.
Gotoh 3 X 3 Large size tuner knobs Before filing them down to 6 inline size....
Now theres more space between the tuner knobs after filing them down to 6 inline size.
Gotoh 3 X 3 Large size tuner knobs Before filing them down to 6 inline size....
Now theres more space between the tuner knobs after filing them down to 6 inline size.
Cagey
Mythical Status
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- 24,425
I'm glad you did that first. I wouldn't have expected that to turn out well and probably wouldn't have tried it. But, they look great! Are there no smaller pegs you can buy? Seems like those come with a million options - I'd have thought smaller pegs would be one of them.
KOABUILD
Junior Member
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- 78
Cagey said:
Well to be honest with you, I had thought the 21:1 Set I had bought in the past had the same size knobs as these so I expected a smaller Knob than these actually have, (after going back to an old thread I posted) I found out the 21:1 Set I had bought off Allparts back then was a custom 6 inline 21:1 set with the smaller knobs...also as it turns out these New Version Gotoh Delta Tuners seem to be of a different build and coating than the older version of their Delta Locking tuners .......but still solid aluminum knobs..thank God. I could have been crying...lol
I also wanted what I wanted Now! at the time, and the only 21:1 Sets I could find online ready to buy were all 3 X 3 which have this Larger Knob, though I didnt expect them to be so wide....I had intended to sell the remaining Right side or "lefty's" as a 6 inline set but now that I see they have the Larger sized knobs I will probably just modify the rest of the knobs and build a Reverse Headstock Arcade/Jackson style Soloist that I had always wanted to build, ... :laughing7: "but Honey, I already have the tuners" ....lol
And truth be told I got these off EBAY at $237 for both sets.....a pretty good deal for sure.
As far as tearing up hardware, I actually like getting creative with files and sanding sponges, I really like my guitars to be highly functional but look beat up and used...sort of.....a strange taste maybe, but I cant seem to stop myself from doing something that gets them there.....lol I know its ridiculous and far from practical, but I just sort of end up there....
I will probably smooth things out some more for appearances but function for me matters above all else, Im just not happy until I wreck sh*t! :laughing7:
The reason I post so many pics and details like these is for the guy who may find himself in a similar predicament and know there is a handy solution, and to show the build of the hardware or parts and details for what ever reason. Which is funny because I didnt look at my past thread to learn these details until after buying .....Doh!
