So, I slapped a Warmoth logo on the peghead. Now, I'm kinda hating it and want to remove it. It just looks silly over the unfinished rosewood. What's the best way to remove it? I'd rather go with a more personalized approach, and get a custom-engraved truss cover and maybe a Warmoth metal logo. Suggestions to break up the adhesive without messing up the rosewood?
Removing decal logo
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jackthehack
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You could also try natural mineral spirits for the same technique, easier to find and a bit less toxic than benzene
NonsenseTele
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Benzene is carcinogen product... I work in a petroleum refinery and there is a very large program to keep it away from the persons that work with this product
The simple answer - Naphtha
Will not harm the wood. Will remove the goo. Gently peel of that label and then goo remove it with an otherwise clean rag. Keep using a clean spot on the rag till it all comes off - which may take a bit of doing, but not too much. Naphtha is commonly use to de-grunge rosewood fretboards, getting finger crud out the wood and out of the little corners where the frets meet the wood. Its what you want to use.
What you dont want to use:
Forget benzine, toluine, heptane, benzol, picric acid (dry), 1,1,1 diclorotrifloroethane, red fuming nitric acid, dessicated sulphuric acid, scrupulously clean cotton fiber, fulminate of mercury and/or potassium chlorate, lead styphnates, ammonium nitrate, or thermite.
Most of that stuff will getcha in trouble. However you might die (ie, Imo vs Mont Blanc, 1917), or have lots of fun first...
ps... of that list my favorite is the thermite
Will not harm the wood. Will remove the goo. Gently peel of that label and then goo remove it with an otherwise clean rag. Keep using a clean spot on the rag till it all comes off - which may take a bit of doing, but not too much. Naphtha is commonly use to de-grunge rosewood fretboards, getting finger crud out the wood and out of the little corners where the frets meet the wood. Its what you want to use.
What you dont want to use:
Forget benzine, toluine, heptane, benzol, picric acid (dry), 1,1,1 diclorotrifloroethane, red fuming nitric acid, dessicated sulphuric acid, scrupulously clean cotton fiber, fulminate of mercury and/or potassium chlorate, lead styphnates, ammonium nitrate, or thermite.
Most of that stuff will getcha in trouble. However you might die (ie, Imo vs Mont Blanc, 1917), or have lots of fun first...
ps... of that list my favorite is the thermite
-CB- said:
yeah, it'll burn through anything except titanium tank armor, it;ll make a block of ice explode.
yeah it will work fine at getting that little decal off, won't leave any residue, or neck for that matter.
[youtube=425,350]http://youtube.com/watch?v=WrCWLpRc1yM[/youtube]
[youtube=425,350]http://youtube.com/watch?v=1MvvxndPDTk[/youtube]
G
guitlouie
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Thank, you Schmoop. And I would also like to thank whoever developed high-speed cameras. Science is so much more fun with those things around.
NonsenseTele
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Sir Schmoopie said:
I didn't have patience to read the wikipedia about the reactions... but they said something about "shit happens with water"...
The first one was in the safe way...
The second one, they almost had a rain of thermite in their heads ( this would be funny, like to see stupid people doing stupid things alike getting in a trouble) ....
jackthehack
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Super Tropical Bleach, you can use to decon blood and nerve agents off your axe as well
jismithers
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Hi, I used to be a metalsmith in the Navy; painted F-4 Phantoms. Naptha is lighter fluid (and visa versa). Should work fine and has the least potential for heartbreak of the solutions presented. Start with a jab before you go for the haymaker.
Tonar8352
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Come on guys, it's all the same, it will all kill you if all you do is breath it all day. Put a little on a Q-tip get the decal off and you will be fine.
Naphtha (CAS No.: 8032-32-4, 8030-30-6, 8002-05-9; aka petroleum ether, white spirit (though in the UK white spirit is something different entirely), Ligroin; VM&P Naphtha; Varnish Makers and Painter's Naphtha [1]; Benzin; Petroleum Naphtha, Naphtha ASTM, Petroleum Spirits, shellite, ronsonol; not to be confused with Naphthalene) is a group of various liquid hydrocarbon intermediate refined products of varying boiling point ranges from 20 to 75 °C (68 to 167 °F), which may be derived from oil or from coal tar, and perhaps other primary sources.
Naphtha is used primarily as feedstock for producing a high octane gasoline component via the catalytic reforming process. Naphtha is also used in the petrochemical industry for producing olefins in steam crackers and in the chemical industry for solvent (cleaning) applications.
Naphtha (CAS No.: 8032-32-4, 8030-30-6, 8002-05-9; aka petroleum ether, white spirit (though in the UK white spirit is something different entirely), Ligroin; VM&P Naphtha; Varnish Makers and Painter's Naphtha [1]; Benzin; Petroleum Naphtha, Naphtha ASTM, Petroleum Spirits, shellite, ronsonol; not to be confused with Naphthalene) is a group of various liquid hydrocarbon intermediate refined products of varying boiling point ranges from 20 to 75 °C (68 to 167 °F), which may be derived from oil or from coal tar, and perhaps other primary sources.
Naphtha is used primarily as feedstock for producing a high octane gasoline component via the catalytic reforming process. Naphtha is also used in the petrochemical industry for producing olefins in steam crackers and in the chemical industry for solvent (cleaning) applications.
jismithers
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It's all very nice to Google "Naptha" and the copy/paste the confusing BS to answer the man's simple question.
Just go to a store that sells a little $2 can of lighter fluid. It's as simple as that. "Crikey!"* - author slaps the side of his head.
*Exclamatory used in honor of the anniversary of Steve Irwin's death.
Just go to a store that sells a little $2 can of lighter fluid. It's as simple as that. "Crikey!"* - author slaps the side of his head.
*Exclamatory used in honor of the anniversary of Steve Irwin's death.
NonsenseTele
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Tonar8353 said:
Hey guy! Isn't the same... I almost wrote it that you said, that naphta could have a good percentage of benzene/toluene/xylene... But I work with diesel today, so I didn't say because I'm not the expert in that... But I know naphta has parts of aromatic chain components as benzene/toluene/xylene, but isn't equal...
Just use lighter fluid on the decal goo. Or go down to Home Depot and get a can of Naphtha.
Schmoo... fwiw.... I happen to have some thermite here <ggggg>. I use it industrially to weld (braze actually) copper to steel for earth grounding electrodes. Wroks GREAT for that.
Schmoo... fwiw.... I happen to have some thermite here <ggggg>. I use it industrially to weld (braze actually) copper to steel for earth grounding electrodes. Wroks GREAT for that.
jackthehack
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Works great on 4.2 mortar tubes you have to abandon as well...
