Pearloid vs Pearl for neck: durablity?

[Rick]

It's been a while since I've posted.  I'm thinking about fret markers for an ebony fretboard.  I know that mother of pearl is calcium carbonate which is about 3 on the Mohs hardness scale, which can be scratched by a penny, but not a fingernail.  I was wondering if the pearloid used by Warmoth is the same hardness as mother of pearl?  Or more or less?
Any thoughts?

 

[Cagey]

Don't know about hardness, but taller frets will keep the strings off the markers.

 

[Rick]

I always go with taller frets.  Rough decision to make ... Mother of pearl dots, acrylic pearloid trapezoid or only a split diamond at the 12th fret  .
.. Not sure what to choose ...

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Tall frets, no inlays.

 

[Rick]

I already have two guitars with ebony fretboards and no inlays, which is a nice look, but I guess I'm looking for something a little different.

 

[Cagey]

I'm not sure wear is an issue with any of the inlay materials in use today. I can't remember ever seeing anything look worn, even on some fairly old instruments.

If you want something different and are concerned about inlay wear, I see you already have a couple no-inlay Ebony fretboards. Maybe consider a different wood. Bloodwood is a very hard, dense wood that's a lot like a red Ebony. Only downside to it is it doesn't really match up with a lotta body finishes. You'd need a body finished in black, red, or something complementary to a dark red. On the plus side, you'd probably be the first kid on your block to have a red fretboard. Ziricote is also pretty hard/dense and has some truly unique grain presentations. Pau Ferro is another one that can be super-attractive and works well with a lotta things.

 

[Logrinn]

I've been looking on the interweb for pictures on old 50's guitars and the inlay wear they have. What I see it's probably going to take 100 to 200 years before you'll have to change the inlay.
My guess is also yes, the pearloid Warmoth uses is probably harder, more durable (400 years before replacement?  :icon_biggrin: ). And finally, which may or may not be a factor for you, Warmoth can't sell MOP if you're outside the US.

 

[Steve_Karl]

My oldest Warmoth is mid 80's with the smallest vintage Fender (nickle) frets and MOP dot inlays on an ebony board.
No visible wear at all on the dots and it has a lot of playing time on it.
The frets have been leveled and crowned once in the mid 90's and it is in desperate need of it's last possible leveling now.
Still ... no visible wear on the dots.

 

[Rick]

I've already got the body in mind, hybrid tele, pearloid pick guard, v, t, on / off switch for 7 strat switching, HSS, mahogany body, quilt maple cap, natural masked "binding" , cherry burst finish, transparent red back, mahogany neck, transparent red back, not sure of the headstock shape, headstock face painted black gloss, not sure of the fretboard material.  I like an oily wood like Wenge or ebony for the fretboard, blood wood sounds nice.  I find having a target at the third and twelfth fret useful, but just the twelfth only will do.  I was trying to reduce my options for the inlay, so by knowing that the acrylic is more durable than mop I'm now going in the other direction ... Too many options! :turtle:

 

[amigarobbo]

I'm sure I can think of a good Pearl neck joke, but it escapes me...

Only time I've ever seen wear on the inserts on a neck is on reliced stuff,

[youtube]ChUUq_Dfsew[/youtube]

Something something you paid money for someone to do that?  :turtle: etc etc. Does sound great though.


edited to add: http://www.flickriver.com/photos/graguitar/sets/72157627782545063/ 1950s Gretch, and


I wouldn't worry about it myself, I'd be long dead by the time the inlay gets dented.  ccasion14: