Out of the box truss rod adjustments

[Crowds]

Hey all,
So this weekend I finally got to put together all the pieces of my Tele build. Including a rather lovely modern construction, roasted maple neck.
I've got it set up a I'm Very happy with its tone, the sustain is well beyond what I'm used to on my heritage hc 140.
I'm using a Babicz bridge and I've got the action reasonably low... But I'd like to push it a little further. In your experience do the necks ever need truss rod adjustments out of the box? I'm wondering if I can get the action a tadge more lower if I tweak it?

Cheers
Jim

 

[SustainerPlayer]

I only buy Pro Construction necks and I always do a side adjust reset pr. instructions. And then a setup ...

 

[Rick]

Yes. Don’t be afraid to adjust your neck.  Just go slow. You can make it perfect.

 

[spe111]

I'd be more surprised if you don't need truss rod adjustments out of the box.

 

[Rick]

Get yourself a copy of Dan Erlewine's book, Guitar Player Repair Guide.  You can buy it for less than $5 delivered to your door.  Used copy. It explains how to do a set up.  If after reading it you can't do it, bring it to a tech to get it perfect.  If you don't have this book in your library, your library is defective.

Do you have any pics of your guitar?  Just curious what it looks like.

 

[stultzies9]

The necks are shipped with the truss rod zeroed out. Side adjust (if it's a Modern neck) is set halfway through the entire travel of the screw, and Vintage/Modern necks are set so that the truss rod is JUST loose, so if you tighten it a quarter turn, the truss rod should engage. Hope that helps a little bit.

 

[barber76]

I have recently received my first Warmoth neck, modern construction, and the fretboard seems perfectly flat out of the box - the neck has neither visible relief, nor tension. So I'm planning to skip initial adjustment by the heel nut, and after putting on strings just do side adjustment.  :dontknow:

P.S. As attached instructions imply, I should have expected slight relief out of the box, requiring initial heel adjustment prior to stringing. But don't see any. The string I lay over the 1st and 12th frets, neither shows a bow, nor pushes to any of the frets.

 

[Rick]

Barber you need the Erlewine book too.

 

[Seamas]

I have recently received my first Warmoth neck, modern construction, and the fretboard seems perfectly flat out of the box - the neck has neither visible relief, nor tension. So I'm planning to skip initial adjustment by the heel nut, and after putting on strings just do side adjustment. 

Buy "visible" are you using a straight edge and checking with a feeler gauge?
You would want the truss rod at the very least engaged (not lose) and under no string tension it should be flat

P.S. As attached instructions imply, I should have expected slight relief out of the box, requiring initial heel adjustment prior to stringing. But don't see any. The string I lay over the 1st and 12th frets, neither shows a bow, nor pushes to any of the frets.

Is that under string tension?
ie: are the strings tuned up?

When strung up and in tune (under tension) you would capo the first fret and then fret the string where the neck meets the body. Then with a feeler gauge measure the relief at the 8th fret.

You should have some relief --between .008" and .12" depending on  factors such as fretboard radius and picking dynamics Light touch can have smaller relief, heavy pick attach might require more)

 

[barber76]

Buy "visible" are you using a straight edge and checking with a feeler gauge?
You would want the truss rod at the very least engaged (not lose) and under no string tension it should be flat

By visible I mean I pull a single string pushing it down over the 1st and 12th fret, and look. Neither I see extra spacing over the 6-7th frets, nor I see the string applying any pressure on them.
Why I doubt your "under no string tension it should be flat" statement - because attached manual clearly states:

[list type=decimal]
[*]Tighten the heel nut until the fretboard is flat.
[*]Attach the neck and tune the strings to pitch.
[*]If necessary, detune strings and make adjustments with side nut.
[/list]

First point implies that out of the box, before strings are put on, the neck may not be flat. And it has to be adjusted by the heel nut. But I don't see a need for it in my case.
Possibly I'm checking for relief wrong - but I don't know how else to check for relief at first point, before putting on the strings, other than the way I do.

When strung up and in tune (under tension) you would capo the first fret and then fret the string where the neck meets the body. Then with a feeler gauge measure the relief at the 8th fret.

You should have some relief --between .008" and .12" depending on  factors such as fretboard radius and picking dynamics Light touch can have smaller relief, heavy pick attach might require more)

Agree with all this. This is what I'll do at point 3 from instructions. And this is when I'm going to use a side nut.

My only point is, I do not see a need to use a heel nut. Because if I understand the instructions correct, it is used if a fretboard is not flat out-of-the box.
If I'm totally wrong, please explain. My logic, as stupid as it is, seems sound to me. :dontknow:

 

[Rick]

What I do is follow the suggestions in erlewine’s book and use the heel nut.  Then use the side micro adjust for seasonal adjustments.  I’ve found once I’ve gone thru one season I never have to adjust the modern necks. They are perfectly designed.

I always thought the side adjust was meant to be used after you got the neck set up correctly the first time with the heel nut.

 

[barber76]

I always thought the side adjust was meant to be used after you got the neck set up correctly the first time with the heel nut.

I think I'll call Warmoth and check with them. Because it is how attached instructions describe it.

 

[Rick]

These are the directions from the website ...

To make truss rod set-up and adjustment more convenient, Modern construction necks feature the Gotoh side adjustment mechanism. Inserted between the usual truss rod adjustment nut at the heel and the truss rod, this ingenious device uses inclines and wedges to make small rod tension adjustments. Initial set-up is still accomplished at the traditional butt end, but future small adjustments are then conveniently done on the side of the neck.

As I said before, for guidance, get Erlewine's book.  It's less than $5 for an early edition.  It'll give you confidence to do at least, the truss rod, saddle height and pickup height adjustments.  Just go easy, and you'll be fine.

What I do is get the set up perfect to my tastes, then play the heck out the neck for a couple of months, and if necessary, do a micro adjust, then I'm done, and in 30 years of using warmoth necks (has it been that long!!! I've only had to go back and readjust a second time less than 3 times.)  That's pretty awesome.  Probably had over half a dozen necks, maybe ten.

 

[barber76]

These are the directions from the website ...
Initial set-up is still accomplished at the traditional butt end, but future small adjustments are then conveniently done on the side of the neck.

Correct. The only issue is, in my understanding (and by the attached steps sheet) "initial set-up" is meant before even bolting/stringing the neck.
I understand the way you do it. And guess it can be done both ways. But will call Warmoth to be on the safe side.

 

[Seamas]

Why I doubt your "under no string tension it should be flat" statement - because attached manual clearly states:

My statement is referring to you should SET the fretboard to flat under NO string tension.

You should fret not at 12th fret, but at 17 or where the neck meets the body.

 

[barber76]

My statement is referring to you should SET the fretboard to flat under NO string tension.

You should fret not at 12th fret, but at 17 or where the neck meets the body.

Sorry for confusion. I typed it wrong. I pushed the string over the 1st and last fret available, not over 12th. I'll re-check, but yet, the neck seemed as flat out of the box, as flat can be. That's why I will do nothing for the initial set. Will re-check though.

 

[Rick]

I'll say it again ... you need a book on how to do a set up and Erlewine's is the most accessible. 

Nobody does a set up without the neck attached to the body, if someone told you to do that, they don't know what they are talking about.  Don't mean to pull out the harsh, it's a good thing you came here ... you'll get set straight.

 

[barber76]

Nobody does a set up without the neck attached to the body, if someone told you to do that, they don't know what they are talking about. 

No offense, but... You really didn't read anything what I was referring to, did you? This is copy-paste from warmoth site:

[list type=decimal]
[*]Tighten the slotted heel-adjust nut (See A) until the fretboard is perfectly flat (has no forward curve.) This should cause the side adjust nut to be recessed into the heel approximately 1/16" (1.6mm).
[*]Attach the neck and tune the strings to pitch.
[*]Detune strings and make necessary relief adjustment using side-adjust nut (See B) and supplied allen wrench. Repeat as necessary.
[/list]

Notice the first step. It is also adjustment. Before neck is attached to the body.

 

[Rick]

None taken ... just trying to guide you to the right place.  Sigh.