No Earvana on angled headstocks ??? :*(
- Thread starter Klark
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swarfrat
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I don't recall the exact reason - width of the nut I believe. However, while Warmoth may not provide it as an option, the new Earvana one piece drop in Gibson shelf nut should do the trick.
Patrick from Davis
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You can buy one from Earvana and do it yourself. I did it on my Warmoth Les Paul. Same great result.
I have since sanded it a bit more and cleaned up the fines that are in the picture. Really cool thing.
Patrick
I have since sanded it a bit more and cleaned up the fines that are in the picture. Really cool thing.
Patrick
jay4321
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Agree w/ Patrick, the drop-ins are great and work fine.
And I hope the Warmoth crew will forgive me, but I would just stick to the drop-ins instead of Warmoth installs anyway. I have several Warmoth installed Earvanas and they did a nice enough job, but if the nut ever needs to be replaced one day I'm stuck with a larger-than-normal nut channel to work around. Whereas the drop ins can be popped out and replaced with another Earvana, or even a standard nut if desired.
My suggestion to Warmoth: abandon the resized nut channel thing and sell/offer installation for the drop-ins.
And I hope the Warmoth crew will forgive me, but I would just stick to the drop-ins instead of Warmoth installs anyway. I have several Warmoth installed Earvanas and they did a nice enough job, but if the nut ever needs to be replaced one day I'm stuck with a larger-than-normal nut channel to work around. Whereas the drop ins can be popped out and replaced with another Earvana, or even a standard nut if desired.
My suggestion to Warmoth: abandon the resized nut channel thing and sell/offer installation for the drop-ins.
Patrick from Davis
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If the patent is pending and they keep changing things it goes on, and on, and on...
Patrick
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swarfrat
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Stephen Delft has prior art by a bunch of years (18 - long enough that had he applied for a patent, IT would be expired by now) I seriously doubt it'd stand up with a proper challenge. Which is not to say it wouldn't stand up in court. Patent law is some of the most screwed up stuff in US law.
Here's the story:Klark said:
- Making an Earvana nut for tilt-back install: Easy
- Milling a tilt-back neck so said Earvana nut works properly: Easy
- Milling a tilt-back neck so said Earvana nut looks like it was professionally installed: Really Hard/Expensive (for Warmoth)
They could make tilt-back Earvana installs look really good by milling the fingerboard 3/32" shorter when it's being made and masking that extra 3/32" of neck blank with tape so it mills off cleanly, but that would add a significant custom upcharge to each neck, and you still wouldn't be able to add them to existing (Showcase) necks. Bottom line, who would want to pay, say, an extra $100 for tiltback installs when the drop-ins look pretty good and work just as well?
Klark
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bwbass said:
I would, because a typical Warmoth nut is remarkable quality. The know EXACTLY where to set the string height (nut slot depth) compared the first fret height, and how they do that is absolutely PERFECT for how I like my guitars to play. A drop in will never be that good, no way, no how.
I am definitely not alone when it comes to spending ANY amount of money for a guitar that I am CUSTOM building to keep for the rest of my days as a player.
jay4321
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bwbass said:
Not really a big deal to get a nut worked, in fact I prefer to have that done on a fully assembled guitar these days. Some like to lower their action a little from how W sets them up. Not a slight on W quality, just that you typically need to have it all together to really sharpen it up. ymmv
Nobody is suggesting you drop in the nut and start playing, it doesn't work like that. With any nut install you have filing and things to do, unless you're talking a floyd or something.
Klark said:
That wasn't my experience. On the neck I bought the slots were still too high (preferable to too low!) and it annoyed me how sharp the notes got on the first few frets. Much more nicer now that the guitar has been set up. No disappointment there, I fully expected the neck would need fine tuning. If nothing else, how would Warmoth know what gauge strings I was going to use? A nut set up for 12s is going to be different than one set up for 9s.
Well this thread is a bit old but I have the same problem.
First, are earvana really worth it and work as advertised?
But mainly, I want to order a custom neck wenge/ebony warmoth pro angled with a warmoth head. So how should I do this? I have no experience at doing my own nut. Actually this will be my first guitar without a Floyd Rose. So I guess I need to order a neck without a nut preparation. But does it come with a groove anyway, or I have to carve it myself? I guess what I really want to know is: 1. Is it hard? 2. How do I do it? 3. What tools do I need to do it?
Keep in consideration that this will be my first build ever. But I'm pretty good with my hands so I'm not really scarred..
On the other hand I still think warmoth should offer the service anyway. I want to give you my money, just take it!!!
Luigi
First, are earvana really worth it and work as advertised?
But mainly, I want to order a custom neck wenge/ebony warmoth pro angled with a warmoth head. So how should I do this? I have no experience at doing my own nut. Actually this will be my first guitar without a Floyd Rose. So I guess I need to order a neck without a nut preparation. But does it come with a groove anyway, or I have to carve it myself? I guess what I really want to know is: 1. Is it hard? 2. How do I do it? 3. What tools do I need to do it?
Keep in consideration that this will be my first build ever. But I'm pretty good with my hands so I'm not really scarred..
On the other hand I still think warmoth should offer the service anyway. I want to give you my money, just take it!!!
Luigi
Cagey
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I used to be highly skeptical of the value of Earvana nuts, so I finally bought a neck that has one. Is it worth it? Well, it depends on how much you value accurate tuning, and where you play the most. The difference is subtle, but definitely noticeable. However, it really only works on open chords. If you play a lot of open chords or melody/lead lines down in the first position, you'll love it. It seems like they just "ring together" better, and sound much richer. I even play with mega monster super-deluxe premium stainless steel railroad tie frets (6100s) which make it easy to sharp notes if you're not careful, and it's still almost magical.
Cost-wise, the Earvana is slightly less expensive than my favorite solution, which is the LSR nut. An LSR install, if you have Warmoth cut it and you buy and install the nut, will run about $85. An Earvana install by Warmoth is about $70. A Graphtec installed by Warmoth is $30. No other option makes sense to me, although some people will have them cut for and install locking nuts. I don't know what that costs, but I wouldn't do it even for free. And of course, there's always the corian nut, but come on. Really? Spend several hundred dollars or more on a neck and install a straight corian nut?
Doan be rediculoss!
As for doing it yourself, if you have to ask how and what tools you need, you don't wanna do it. Nut installations are critical.
Finally, you don't need a tilt-back head. Tilt-back headstocks and/or string trees are for poorly fashioned nuts and/or truss rod exposure, and in fact some nut installations such as the LSR and Earvana aren't possible (at least from Warmoth) if you have one.
Cost-wise, the Earvana is slightly less expensive than my favorite solution, which is the LSR nut. An LSR install, if you have Warmoth cut it and you buy and install the nut, will run about $85. An Earvana install by Warmoth is about $70. A Graphtec installed by Warmoth is $30. No other option makes sense to me, although some people will have them cut for and install locking nuts. I don't know what that costs, but I wouldn't do it even for free. And of course, there's always the corian nut, but come on. Really? Spend several hundred dollars or more on a neck and install a straight corian nut?
Doan be rediculoss!
As for doing it yourself, if you have to ask how and what tools you need, you don't wanna do it. Nut installations are critical.
Finally, you don't need a tilt-back head. Tilt-back headstocks and/or string trees are for poorly fashioned nuts and/or truss rod exposure, and in fact some nut installations such as the LSR and Earvana aren't possible (at least from Warmoth) if you have one.
Cagey said:
Well thx for the vote of confidence. But I think every1 has to have a first time. Like I said I'm pretty good with handling guitar work I haven't seen a luthier in at least 15years now. I do all my guitar work myself. I watched a bunch of the videos from dan erlewins and read a few books on the subject. I already have all the tools required to do setup, intonation, fret job, electronic work... Like I said the only reason I didn't do this before is because all my guitars are Floyd rose equipped.
Also all the videos I've seen talk about replacing a nut. This is not the same. First, I don't think I need to file the string in the nut with an earvana. They seem to be already there. (correct me if I'm wrong). Therefore I don't need a set of nut file.
Also when ur replacing a nut. The groove in the neck is already made and you don't have to make it. That is what really scare me and I'd rather not do myself. That's why I want to know whe I order a new neck if it's there even if I didn't order a nut install.
Also on earvana website, they let you choose between fender style or Gibson. Which one will fit a warmoth headstock? Fender 1 1/16. 9.5radii ?
I guess I could always order it with a graphtech nut then replace it with earvana and figure it out on my own...
For the LSR nut. Not an option on angled neck again... Why do you prefer it to graph tech? Keeps in tune even better?
Luigi
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You're right; everybody needs to have a "first time". But, usually you don't practice on the good stuff first. You try working on something where failure isn't a tragedy <grin>
The fingerboard needs to be routed a bit forward for the nut to sit in; it's not a matter of simply replacing the existing nut with an Earvana. Because of that, you need a router and a neck jig set up specifically for routing nut slots, or a small CNC machine, and the tools/ability to make fine measurements.
I understand Earvana makes a "drop in replacement" version that supposedly lets you install one of their nuts in place of a standard nut. It's shaped differently to overhang the fretboard in order to gain the forward dimension it needs. You'd have to look that one up to see if it's a viable option for you.
If you order the nut separately, you need to match to the neck you have. If you haven't bought the neck yet, Warmoth will build it however you'd like. So, if you want a 1 11/16" nut and a 9.5" radius, that's what you'd ask for.
As for the LSR nuts - I prefer them because they allow a range of string sizes with nothing more than a height adjustment (if needed), and in combination with locking tuners they work extremely well. I can dive-bomb the strings until they're practically hanging off the neck, and it'll come right back up into tune.
I would seriously consider letting Warmoth install the nut for you. The results are functional, accurate, attractively done and you get a warranty. For what it costs, I can't imagine it being worth the time and trouble of doing it yourself. I know how to install nuts and have the tools to do it, and I still pay Warmoth to do the nuts on my new necks. It's just too easy that way. Plus, if it gets screwed up, it's on them <grin>
The fingerboard needs to be routed a bit forward for the nut to sit in; it's not a matter of simply replacing the existing nut with an Earvana. Because of that, you need a router and a neck jig set up specifically for routing nut slots, or a small CNC machine, and the tools/ability to make fine measurements.
I understand Earvana makes a "drop in replacement" version that supposedly lets you install one of their nuts in place of a standard nut. It's shaped differently to overhang the fretboard in order to gain the forward dimension it needs. You'd have to look that one up to see if it's a viable option for you.
If you order the nut separately, you need to match to the neck you have. If you haven't bought the neck yet, Warmoth will build it however you'd like. So, if you want a 1 11/16" nut and a 9.5" radius, that's what you'd ask for.
As for the LSR nuts - I prefer them because they allow a range of string sizes with nothing more than a height adjustment (if needed), and in combination with locking tuners they work extremely well. I can dive-bomb the strings until they're practically hanging off the neck, and it'll come right back up into tune.
I would seriously consider letting Warmoth install the nut for you. The results are functional, accurate, attractively done and you get a warranty. For what it costs, I can't imagine it being worth the time and trouble of doing it yourself. I know how to install nuts and have the tools to do it, and I still pay Warmoth to do the nuts on my new necks. It's just too easy that way. Plus, if it gets screwed up, it's on them <grin>
thats the problem warmoth wont install it for me. thats what I want to but not an option in this case. so Im left with either use standard graph tech nut or install earvana myself. after looking closely at the necks in the showroom it seems the gibson style nut would fit better. but they only offer that in 12degree radii. I want to have a compound neck so Im stuck. This might be the reason why warmoth doesnt offer nut for those headstock. because earvana doesnt make nut that will fit the radius of compound neck for those head. how well I guess black Graph tech tusq XL it is then..
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