NFT Floyd 7/8 build, what WOOD you do?

[cdub]

Planned build, 7/8 S-type with NFT Floyd recessed route. I want to use a Duncan Jazz HB @ the neck, and a Duncan TB-5 bridge. Both p-ups get s/p/split mini switches. 3 way, vol, tone. My body choices are down to two options, both rear-routed:

Birdseye maple over solid roasted swamp ash with the dark accent line under gloss clear.

Birdseye over chambered black korina under gloss clear.

Neck will be a 7/8 modern roasted flame on roasted flame with LSR nut and locking tuners. Stainless frets, no finish.

I do lush cleans, lots of harmonics and bar use/vibrato, maj/min 7th stuff, instrumental, mostly have an 80’s/Gilmour/jazz fusion thing happening, with some modern rock or metalish tendencies. At least I’d like to think so. Love stacking gain pedals too, lots of different levels of distortion depending on what I’m playing around with, from edgy low, mid to super chunk scream gain. Basically a strong but versatile voice is needed, a mix-cutter with beef if you will.

Any advice on the parts given and goals listed? I can’t make up my mind, I’m leaning towards the roasted solid body.

 

[Cagey]

I would lean toward the roasted Ash, too.

 

[stratamania]

Another vote for the roasted ash combo.

On the electronics, I am guessing s/p/split is series/parallel or split rather than p for phase.

There is a way you could avoid mini switches. You could, for example, use a 5-way super switch and have auto splits into two positions and use push-pull pots to do for example series/parallel.

It is tempting when designing to go for maximum flexibility but worth checking if you really need the combinations.

 

[cdub]

IIRC the super switch requires chiseling away top material inside the cavity on rear-routed bodies to get it to seat, plus I REALLY hate soldering those wacky things and am very comfortable with the mini toggle work. My soldering game is strong. Just have to nab a brad-point drill bit and use a drill press and not my cordless :icon_thumright:

(Edit: I need 1 megaohm push pull pots to make it work without the minis, I can’t find any, except maybe a split shaft bourns @ amplifiedparts.com but I want to use set screw type metal knobs for 1/4” solid shaft.)

(2nd Edit: Roasted swamp ash it is. I was mostly there already.)

 

[Cagey]

You can put set screw knobs on split shafts without incident. I do it all the time. All you have to do is be sure the set screw will hit at the split instead of one of the sides.

It might even be a better mount since the screw not only impacts both halves of the shaft, it also tends to spread them, forcing them against the interior of the knob hole. In any case, they're on tight and will rotate true.

 

[stratamania]

Not sure on the post before last, what soldering and different drill bits have to do with each other.

Where is the information on a super switch requiring carving away a body?

Not aware of that as being the case but I normally use top routs so perhaps someone else can confirm that to be sure.

 

[cdub]

I was saying I’d rather drill a new hole in a brand new rear route body to use mini toggles than solder a 5p4t stuper switch, lesser of two evils in my book. and yeah the part of the switch that goes against the top wood is too wide for the hot dog shape W routes out under the slot. Pics if I remember tonight when I’m home, I have a rear route soloist with a super switch.

 

[Rick]

Whatever wood looks best to you.

 

[stratamania]

OK got it on the drilling now.