Mooncaster over Clearwater (FL)...

All done except I still need to do the intonation and bridge pup adjustments. Spent a good bit of time shimming the bridge route (11mm hardwood) because with the neck angle and Gotoh 510 wrap-around bridge, the bridge pup could not be raised to proper height. Something I’m a bit disappointed in, but not too big of a deal. If I were to do it again (exactly the same parts), I’d discuss the neck pocket angle of the route.

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End up agreeing on no dying (blue) of the headstock. May forego the Aries tribal logo too

I think so also for certain now we see it.

On the pickup being raised, I assume the proper height is more of an expectation of height rather than it would not work lower with the neck angle as designed?
 
I think so also for certain now we see it.

On the pickup being raised, I assume the proper height is more of an expectation of height rather than it would not work lower with the neck angle as designed?

Unless I misunderstand your question, the pickup height (from bottom of the string to the top of either the poles or the pup case itself) is a function of pickup design. Some pup designs do have a greater range of workable heights. In any case, all pups do have a "sweet spot" that produce the best/proper clarity along with tone and output.
Filtertrons (at least original spec design and TV Jones equivalent - including these Brian Setzer issue) are particularly "finicky" with respect to the range in which they work. In this particular case (TV Jones Brian Seter) the bridge works pretty well within approximately 3.5 and 4.5 mm (Note: TV Jones recommends 5/32 inches (4mm) between the top of the cover and the bottom of the E strings on the bridge pickup). I happen to agree with TV Jones on the 4mm (5/32") recommendation. (again - just my limited experience).
On the initial setup, I had almost 7mm of gap between the pup and the bottom of the E strings (and that was with the adjustment screws fully unwound). Long story short, I decided to shim the base of the route to allow for the best height adjustment range possible.
When I compare the neck break angle and the height of the bridge to my Les Paul, they are very similar. So based on that and the general expectation on fixed bridges (since Warmoth is doing this to accommodate most setups) and noting that both the Les Paul and the Mooncaster bodies are carved tops; I get why they programmed the route as is. However, if the route were made with slightly less tilt back, the bridge (and pup route for Filtertrons) would work out MUCH better.
I'll provide some close up pics (and comparison to my LP) to show you what I mean.
In no way am I dissing on Warmouth. Again, I think I can understand how they likely have a very set "CNC program" for the neck pocket route. I would just suggest that - as in my case - when the custom order includes the particular combination of the Gotoh 510 wrap-around bridge (which I got from them and is one of 2 selections in their build list) AND FIltertron routing, they could adjust that routing program to reduce the angle by a degree or two.

Just to complete the thoughts I've had on this... I've also considered reducing the thickness of the "sole/shoe" (the place where the neck bolts to the body) by sanding it down a bit to lower the neck; and/or creating a bit of a negating compensating angle to that such that the net effect is to reduce the neck angle. But it's really not necessary (and probably not the best approach), given how easy it is to just shim the bridge pup pocket route.

Follow up FYI.... I decided to calculate what actual delta the angle had to change in order to bring the bridge/string height down to a "reasonable" height (meaning - what would work well/best). So the angle would need to decrease by 0.8 degrees (so assuming a 4-5 degree angle) would bring it down by about 3/8" from it's current height
 
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I'll provide some close up pics (and comparison to my LP) to show you what I mean.

That is probably a clearer way of showing it. I think I get now what you mean, without a shim under the pickup, it could not be adjusted close enough to the strings. Would longer screws with foam maybe have been an alternative for someone else who encounters this in the future?
 
It could be. The biggest issue with that proposed solution (and yes - I considered it) is that the screws are already very long and it was neigh impossible to find one longer by another 6mm (1/4") or longer (and that would have still put them at their limit - I'd really want them another 10mm+ or about 1/2" preferably).
If the mounting and adjustment worked more like typical humbucker designs, it would have been somwhat easier to deal with. This issue really has more to do with the Filtertron pups and their peculiarities (at least in the "no ears" route)...
 
It could be. The biggest issue with that proposed solution (and yes - I considered it) is that the screws are already very long and it was neigh impossible to find one longer by another 6mm (1/4") or longer (and that would have still put them at their limit - I'd really want them another 10mm+ or about 1/2" preferably).
If the mounting and adjustment worked more like typical humbucker designs, it would have been somwhat easier to deal with. This issue really has more to do with the Filtertron pups and their peculiarities (at least in the "no ears" route)...

Perhaps there are possibly other brands of Filtertrons that may need the extra depth.
 
Yes... absolutely. Dimensionally, Filtertrons "should" be the same. There are ways to mount them (using addon "ears") more like conventional humbuckers. It just happens this way due to the unique way I chose to go with the design.
 
Here are some close up pics with dimensions which ought to illustrate (hopefully better) what I'm talking about....

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This shows a perspective and overall view of how high the bridge is.
Note: The pick up to string gap is 5.5mm (which is about 1.0-1.5mm too big) but I have not added the neoprene foam padding to allow for adjustment (at this point anyway) which will be perfect for adjusting to somewhere between 3.5 to 4.5 mm....
THIS IS WITH THE 11mm SHIM... (it was a lot worse before I took action to correct it - so imagine the pup 11mm lower)

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Here is a good side-on view...

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...and a good comparison to my LP.
Note: I used this placement for the measurement as it is the most fair comparison to illustrate how it's "bigger", yet not really so much so that it's "way out". It could be lower for sure - but it's workable...
 
Something does not seem right about that at all. There are no pictures of the neck pocket etc but I am wondering if there was paint or something in it throwing off the neck angle that was not removed prior to assembly.
 
No. Neck pocket was clean.
It's really not that bad (as evidenced by the comparison to the LP). With different pups, it would not be a big deal. I think Warmoth just has never really looked at the combination I put together. Neck angle is really important. Production patterns are also important as well to keep costs to a minimum. I think there would be some production issue with changing the neck pocket route for just this one instance.
It would be doable - but the question is, is it practical for Warmoth production to program that into the production sequence.

1.5mm isn't a deal breaker.
 
BTW.... all is done! (no pics - looks haven't changed at all)
She "rings" (sustain) really nice! I'm breaking in some new strings and will play her this weekend and make subtle adjustments on the pups (particularly their poles if needed).
 
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