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LP Korina Dragonburst - Pics UPDATE, MORE PICS

I was sent to NASA soldering school, and spent an entire week or two (24 years ago) just learning to solder. Some people have a certain way to solder and have success. But the way I solder, I have never had a solder joint go bad, and everyone I have shown agrees that my (NASA's) method is quick and easy. So if you wanna mess arround with rosin core solder go ahead, I don't care. But here is how it should be done.

Go buy a good soldering iron, 40-50 watts,  the hotter the better, good solid core solder,something designed for electronics use, and some acid paste flux, I bought my acid paste flux at frey's electronics, If you can't find acid flux, use whatever paste flux you can find, I won't ever use flux core solder again, it blows chunks.
Buy a spray can of contact cleaner to clean up the leftover flux when done.

When soldering, you gotta do this. dip the end of your wire in the paste flux.  take your hot iron and wipe it off with a damp sponge or cloth, let heat back up for a few seconds, dip the end of iron into the flux, then put solder on your iron. you should see a solder bulge on your iron, touch that bulge of hot solder to your wire.
Always keep your iron tip shiney, If it sits and turns black, wipe it off on a wet sponge, or even wire brush it-dip in flux and add solder.



You have just "tinned" your wire.  Now, put a small amount of flux on the component that the wire will be attached too, then tin that spot just like you did the wire.
Always add the solder to the iron, then touch the iron to what you want soldered, this preheated solder, helps to quickly heat the components, and the flux allows the solder to "wick" over the area

So now you have solder on both the wire and the spot it will attach too, and by the way, try to have a fair amount on the post or pot cover.  now holding the wire to the spot you want it attached, simply push the iron, with a fresh drop of solder, on top for a few seconds and thats it, hold your wire for about 5 seconds after you remove the soldering iron. Try to keep the eyelet holes open on the pot tabs, just poke the wire through the hole at a flat angle, add solder, done.

the finnished solder should be have a shine to it, or almost.  if it looks dull like lead, you have a cold solder joint, just re-add heat and hold it steady.

as for soldering to the case of pots, and your trem spring claw if you got one, it's all about heat.  the problem with a low watt iron is, the heat you apply to the pot is being wicked away almost as fast as you add it, so to get to the right temp, you over cook the pot and can damage it. This is true with all your components with a fair amount of metal, you need a lot of heat quick on one point. the regular wire terminals are fairly thin and easy to solder..

Hope this helps, good luck



 
ITS DONE! Pics posted in the LP section. go check it out and tell me what you think..

and thanks for all the soldering advice alfang i really needed it.
 
even though you are done, i just want to say, never ever buy a cold heat soldering iron. its a total piece of crap, in fact i got more use out of the wire striper that cames with it.
 
Alfang said:
Go buy a good soldering iron, 40-50 watts,  the hotter the better, good solid core solder,something designed for electronics use, and some acid paste flux,

Always add the solder to the iron, then touch the iron to what you want soldered

You're kidding right?  NASA?  Either this is a bad joke, or you're totally out to lunch, or presenting bad information for some other purpose.

Let me tell everyone, that that post is totally incorrect, and if not a joke, I dunno what!

NASA aside -

1.  Match the heat to the item being soldered.  Small things require less heat.  Large things need more.  Thats one reason a temperature controlled soldering iron/station is a good practice.

2.  ALWAYS heat the components, then add solder.  Pre-Tinning a component is good, but you still need to heat the component, then add solder.

3.  NEVER use acid type flux.  Acid flux is for PIPES and RADIATORS where you have a hard time keeping the joint clean, the joint is heated with a torch, and there is adequate material to permit some deterioration afterward.

For what its worth.... Not a "NASA" rocket scientist.  AM a USN trained (civilian but USN trained) tech, have attended PACE school, have attended school for thru-hole and surface mount soldering, have attended rework school, have first hand experience (over 15 years) of production assembly management, throw in another 10 years of rework management.... and I'll go to my grave in saying Alfang is just plain old wrong (for whatever reason).

Dont take my word for it..... look at ANY soldering training or "how to" for electronics on the web.  Pipes... yes, use acid flux.  Electronics, no please.... use rosin... like yer s'posed to!
 
No Joke at all,

It doesn't matter if you use acid flux as long as you clean it up well, you dont like it that's fine,, I love it.

Not everyone has an adjustable heat soldering station, I agree use the heat needed- but if your gonna own one soldering iron, make it a hot one, one with enough power to solder to the spring claw and the case of the pots.

The advantage to applying the solder with the iron is that the solder will help transfer heat quicker and as soon as the component heats up the solder will flow.
Plus, you dont need 3 hands to solder easily

CB you may disagree with some or all of my earlier post, but please, don't call it a joke. And I will concede acid flux is probably not the best choice, if your not gonna clean it up well afterwards.

I have also experience in circuit board manufacturing, circuit boards are soldered by applying hot solder, and not pre-heating the components.
Solder is the best way to transfer the heat- you wanna heat it up quick and move on- not cook the device.

I used to work on aircraft, that's exactly how we were taught to solder, it works great - If you dont like it that's fine - But it's no joke
 
Alfang said:
CB you may disagree with some or all of my earlier post, but please, don't call it a joke.

I'll call it a joke when it seems like it, and when the information presented is of a nature that it may just get somebody in trouble... cost them money, grief etc etc etc.

Not one qualified place on the web I've ever seen, suggests that acid flux be used on electronics.  Show me one - make me a believer.

Using a high wattage iron - the hotter the better - is a poor choice at best, and dangerous at worst.  Soldering to a pots body - even 25 watts is fine, and I've done it with 15 (but newbies would like 25w better).  Whats wrong with 50w?  You'll melt stuff inside the pot, melt the substrate when you solder to the lugs, have excessive insulation shrinkback.... possibly run solder into places you dont want it to go... its just a poor practice.

You might do it... you might also run across a 12 lane freeway for sport, but please dont offer it as a suggestion or illustration here - some newbie is gonna get hold of it, and its gonna screw em up. 
 
Which is why I use my cheap-ass ten dollar Radio Shack iron to do my axes, instead of dragging home one of the Weller WD1000M's home from work....
 
When I first saw the dragon burst in the showcase I just passed them by but let me go on record after seeing yours I would be proud to own one yes I just made a 180 degree turn. As far as the soldering goes I learned while in the Air Force I first worked on the F-111  (Comm, Nav, and ECM) then I went to the F-16 test project. You both bring up valid points but for a beginner I would use CBs' method. Alfangs' is more for the experienced and guys please don't forget about the heat sink when using a higher wattage iron or gun of your choice. I agree that some components can be heated but not much that's why the wire and the tip of the soldering iron or gun will be tinned also and to use the wax flux. If not cleaned properly after soldering the acid flux solder can cause the electronics to corrode. To each their own.
 
OK Forget the acid flux  - get over it already.

I dont recall ever saying to hold your soldering iron on your part till its cooked - 2 seconds is all it takes for a pot and you can handle it right after
Your gonna transfer less heat into your components with a hotter iron, if you apply solder with the iron.

More people will have better success this way than using a 15 watt iron, they are gonna cook there pots to death waiting for things to heat up.

So we disagree,

no one is gonna get in trouble applying solder with the iron, give the people some credit for cryin out loud
 
Hopefully this is a question that won't lead CB and Alfang to kill each other.

Approximately how long is 'too long' in terms of holding the iron to a pot, and not wanting its insides burnt to a crisp? I'm using a 25 watt iron, and perhaps I'm just doing something wrong, but it's definitely taking longer than 2 seconds to heat things up enough to get my solder flowing.
 
Depends on which solder points you're talking about. Using a 15 watt iron, I usually pre-fill the holes of pots/switches/jacks soldering points to be used by the circuit, which just takes 2-5 seconds, then you just need to hit them again for 2-3 seconds to get your tinned lead through to connect.

Ground points on the back of the pots or on the tremelo claw may take 10 seconds or so, but depending on the components used you need to scrape any laquer/coating off first at the solder point, or it will take longer to "burn through" the coating and get the solder to stick.
 
nathan a said:
Hopefully this is a question that won't lead CB and Alfang to kill each other.

Approximately how long is 'too long' in terms of holding the iron to a pot, and not wanting its insides burnt to a crisp? I'm using a 25 watt iron, and perhaps I'm just doing something wrong, but it's definitely taking longer than 2 seconds to heat things up enough to get my solder flowing.

Pot bodies that are CLEAN and bright metal, should take maybe about 2 - 5 seconds.  Pot lugs... almost instantly.  Switch lugs the same.  Assuming a 25w iron with a good fairly clean tip.

Its not a matter of killing each other BTW.... not at all. 

Here: 
http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/solder.htm
http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm
http://www.elexp.com/t_solder.htm

and finally the NASA way.... (which is not as described in Alfang's lengthy post above btw)
http://radiojove.gsfc.nasa.gov/telescope/soldering.htm

My beef - dont use acid flux.  Dont use solder on the iron to make the joint.  Dont use a huge iron.  Just do it the right way.  I dont want some newbie getting the wrong impression, and/or wasting a part, time, money, grief, etc etc etc.  When its wrong, its wrong, and thats all there is to it.  When its wrong to the point of being costly, thats even worse, and I'll make my stand on that.
 
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