LOST AND OVERWHELMED!!!! please help :)

[OzziePete]

+1 to SuperLizard (there's a first time for everything!)  :icon_jokercolor:

+2, and this isn't the first time.  Quite. 

+3, most of what Superlizard posted except for the larger headstock.

As this will be the first build, I'd stay in line with what has been more of the traditional wood combinations for Strats. I personally love the look of an all maple neck (birdseye for that extra classy look), and done in a vintage tint.

 

[Rick]

Go to a music store.  Try them.  Listen to recordings.  See some bands.  Make up your own mind.  Though I have to say my favorite is:
Alder body, HSS, maple/rosewood 1 3/4 wide boat neck, 7 way switch selector.  Hard tail.
H=Duncan Distortion
S's=Bill Lawrence single coils. 

 

[blimpo]

I'd go with stainless steel frets if you bend a lot of strings like me. They are ulta-smooth at that.

They don't wear like nickel frets either.

 

[exalted]

I'd go with stainless steel frets if you bend a lot of strings like me. They are ulta-smooth at that.

They don't wear like nickel frets either.

That may be true, but my neck with SS frets required some serious fret work straight out of the box. That's not what I'm hearing from people with nickel frets.

I mean, unless you're okay with your hand being torn to shreds by the sharp ends of the SS frets, or you want to put another $150 into your neck as soon as you get it...Then I'm sure they're great.

 

[blue313]

All stainless frets don't need work right out of the box.  All standard ones aren't perfect right out of the box either.  Technically they all need work since Warmoth doesn't dress the ends.

The difference is when you need to pay someone else to do the work.

 

[DocNrock]

I agree with most of what was posted here.  +1000 to the SS frets.  They do need to be dressed (but so do all the other ones).  However, they're so buttery to play on.

 

[blimpo]

I'd go with stainless steel frets if you bend a lot of strings like me. They are ulta-smooth at that.

They don't wear like nickel frets either.

That may be true, but my neck with SS frets required some serious fret work straight out of the box. That's not what I'm hearing from people with nickel frets.

I mean, unless you're okay with your hand being torn to shreds by the sharp ends of the SS frets, or you want to put another $150 into your neck as soon as you get it...Then I'm sure they're great.

My SS frets came on a canary neck and they're fine, no sharp ends at all. I made sure the neck was straight and then bolted it on, let it set under tension and barely had to do any more adjusting.
Maybe I was just lucky, but no complaints here....

 

[Patrick from Davis]

I spent the 50 bucks on the two files I needed and dress the fret ends myself.  Like everything some need it more than others, but it is not that difficult.

My suggestions are...
The Callaham Fralin H/SRV pickups sound like what you are after sound wise.  The Pau Ferro/Pau Ferro necks Warmoth has are in the same ball park sonically as the maple necks, just salaciously fun to play (big word of the day).  Truth of the matter with necks is that no two are alike.  Get something that is in the ball park of what you like and the quality of the Warmoth neck will win you over.  I dig the stainless steel frets because I like open chords and bending notes quite a bit and that always wore the nickle brass frets quickly.  I have the new Warmoth/Earvana nut and it is very nice, I'll probably get that on any future purchase.  One warning, get ready for a long ride with future stops back here.  This is an addictive hobby.  Have fun.
Patrick

 

[Vol. Knob]

I knew of Warmoth back in the '80s when I was a teen and saw their ads in cheesy guitar magazines.  I was too chicken (and cheap) to build anything until recently.  Now I'm hooked, there's a bunch of VIPs with F holes in the "in stock" that appeared recently, I'm scrambling right now to snag one.

There isnt anywhere you can go to sample all the options.  Sure, you can go to a Guitar Center and play a bunch of different guitars to sample neck shapes and pickup tones.  But honestly, it isnt the same.  You have to take a leap of faith and start building.  Do research, and be honest with yourself and what your needs are.  Once you've spent $500 to $1000 on parts, finish it, put it together, and start playing it, theres no, or very little, going back. 

The only place you can go to test and sample anything is online, their website, this forum, youtube clips of Warmoth builds, the Warmoth flickr group, etc.  But, of course, theres no substitute for a hands-on experience.    But if you proceed with caution and self-control, you should end up with a killer ax.  I know I did. 

Below is my first build, sort of, the only Warmoth part is the Body, Bubinga topped Mahogany Thinline Body. two F holes and recessed tune-o-matic.  Karosa made the neck, Goncalo Alves with Rosewood board.  Pickups are by Reed James Custom, P90s with solid exotic Cocobolo wood covers.

[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJnm0_BaExk[/youtube]