Korina kaster in progress

willyk

Senior member
Messages
1,278
It's well and truly under way. Picture 1 shows just how open grained Black Korina is. I sand/sealed it first up and left it overnight. Pic 2 shows it wet with the sealer, way different to how it looked out of the box. Next job was sanding it all back (400 paper) before grain filling. I mixed light filler with a brown stain (feast-watson 'jarrah') and a bit of turps to make a fairly sloppy paste and rubbed it on with a cloth pad. Then I scraped off the excess with a credit card and hit the sack. The filler dried almost pink (see Pic 3) but after sanding it all back with 400 wet/dry to 1200 followed by 0000 steel wool the filler looks right and the surface is ready to apply the Tung oil (Pic 4) I'm waiting for the neck and other bits to arrive, hopefully before the weekend.......later  Willy
 

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willyk

Senior member
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Just put the first coat of tung oil on, the color is back!

.....and I had a little spy looking through the window. He looks like a Warmoth inlay but he's actually a dinky-di Aussie water dragon
 

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Soloshchenko

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430
willyk said:
Just put the first coat of tung oil on, the color is back!

I'd heard a lot of people saying how little affect tung oil has on shading the colour of bare wood but I agree with you, it makes quite a lot of difference. On my flame maple/mahoganny tele the tung oil has kind of "browned" the wood and really darkened the mahoganny. It looks absolutely gorgeous. I'll post pics soon.
 

NonsenseTele

Senior member
Messages
8,256
Man! it's going to be as nice as TT's B.K strat!!!! God, you're very lucky man!!! :eek:ccasion14: (Sorry for posting twice, but it's fucking awesome, really, I can't calm down...  :-\)
 

willyk

Senior member
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1,278
Three coats of Tung oil, it's starting to get there. I'm not impressed with my choice of brand ( Aussies beware of Wattyl ) It starts to go off almost immediately so I'm having to thin with turps. It will end up fine but it's taking a lot more rootin' around. Cabots Danish oil is much nicer stuff to play with, another lesson learned. I must track down some 'real' tung oil over here.
 

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shaneman

Active member
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80
Nice Work Willyk,

I'm on my 6th coat of Tung right now.  My first few 2 coats were diluted w/ 1/3 Tung Oil and 2/3 Mineral spirits.  The 3-5 coats it was 2/3 Tung and 1/3 Mineral and finally my last 6 coats are all Tung.  It just takes time and patience.  I love the look of the guitars.  It has a nice mellow satin sheen and it's so damn smooth.  Love it.

Shane-O :guitaristgif:
 

willyk

Senior member
Messages
1,278
It's probably my favorite way to finish also. I like to feel I am holding a piece of wood. Real thick shiny finishes feel the same as the pickguard to me. I've done 3 or 4 guitars with Danish oil which is real slow going. It is nowhere near as "polymerised" as the product I'm doing this strat with and is very pleasant to use, but it takes a long time to build.  I think once I get a feel for this new stuff I will feel better about it. It just feels a lot less organic than what I used before but will probably end up  looking better.
Thanks for the tips on your diluting ratios Shaneman. That is good data and will be a big help.  :eek:ccasion14:

I love this board, there's always someone to encourage, inspire or help out with a little nugget (as Gregg likes to say). 
 

shaneman

Active member
Messages
80
Awesome, My next guitar will be Korina.  I'm going to ask Warmoth if they can sculpt me a BC RICH BICH Body out of Korina.  Korina has got such a great look.  My favorites are Flamed Koa, Korina, Spalted Maple and some of the colored woods like purpleheart, padouk and pau ferro have got my attention.  Take it easy,

Shane-Man :guitaristgif:
 

willyk

Senior member
Messages
1,278
Padouk is outrageous as a top. One of my teles in this gallery is walnut with a maple pinstripe and a padouk top. One of these days I am going to take a serious look at zebrawood also. Apparently it's like a light colored version of wenge. Bubinga looks awesome too........so many choices !!
 

Alfang

Senior member
Messages
2,596
willyk said:
It's probably my favorite way to finish also. I like to feel I am holding a piece of wood. Real thick shiny finishes feel the same as the pickguard to me. I've done 3 or 4 guitars with Danish oil which is real slow going. It is nowhere near as "polymerised" as the product I'm doing this strat with and is very pleasant to use, but it takes a long time to build.  I think once I get a feel for this new stuff I will feel better about it. It just feels a lot less organic than what I used before but will probably end up  looking better.
Thanks for the tips on your diluting ratios Shaneman. That is good data and will be a big help.  :eek:ccasion14:

I love this board, there's always someone to encourage, inspire or help out with a little nugget (as Gregg likes to say). 

Willyk  forget it, give it up, it won't work, your doomed to failure        jk  :laughing7:
 

willyk

Senior member
Messages
1,278
Good way to look at life............" Life is like a pubic hair on a toilet seat, sooner or later someone's gonna come along and piss you off ! "
Luvya Alfang  :icon_tongue:
 

willyk

Senior member
Messages
1,278
rockdude326 said:
very nice grain!  what are your plans for the parts?

Chrome hardware:- SG38 tuners, 6hole vintage trem. Black pickguard and trem cover. Black pickup covers, knobs, switch and trem tips. RG pickups MG/HB/TB with the bridge  pickup wired to the 2nd tone control. The neck's a VM Boatback. Maple/rosewood
 

willyk

Senior member
Messages
1,278
I'm up to 5 coats of "Tongue" oil now. It's looking rather shiny so I'm going to leave it a few days as it is. I'm hoping the neck will turn up soon. That will give me something to play with while the body cures a bit.
 

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