Just because you can... / 66 Freak Out Tele
- Thread starter Fat Pete
- Start date
Fat Pete
Hero Member
- Messages
- 1,656
Thrilling update time.
Can you guess which template was copied from a laser-cut one and which were quickly hacked out/glued together?
Me neither.
Found the pre-routed cable channel here - don't you love it when a plan comes together?:
Here too:
Hopefully the control cavity is in the right place:
What's with the big old spade bit? I didn't hear you ask. I do have plans and a part-made jig to accurately drill the jack socket hole using the router (another not big enough drill press issue), but for this one I thought just a hand-held drill going in horizontally would be fine. What could possibly go wrong?
Being about a mile off-centre is what could go wrong. Still within 'that'll do' parameters though and I should be able to claw some back using an oval plate.
Another mock-up:
I think that's all the cutting, unless I succumb to the impulse to give it a bigger, comfier round-over, so next up:
Can you guess which template was copied from a laser-cut one and which were quickly hacked out/glued together?
Me neither.
Found the pre-routed cable channel here - don't you love it when a plan comes together?:
Here too:
Hopefully the control cavity is in the right place:
What's with the big old spade bit? I didn't hear you ask. I do have plans and a part-made jig to accurately drill the jack socket hole using the router (another not big enough drill press issue), but for this one I thought just a hand-held drill going in horizontally would be fine. What could possibly go wrong?
Being about a mile off-centre is what could go wrong. Still within 'that'll do' parameters though and I should be able to claw some back using an oval plate.
Another mock-up:
I think that's all the cutting, unless I succumb to the impulse to give it a bigger, comfier round-over, so next up:
Fat Pete
Hero Member
- Messages
- 1,656
Well this was supposed to be a quick one, but a couple of weeks have passed while I faff about.
The milk paint thing didn't work out - I mixed it carelessly, which didn't help, but it clearly wasn't going to give a satisfactory result.
Sticking with the 'that'll do' ethos (and avoiding spending), rattle can car spray it is. I had some left over from some pedals I put together, so...
Primer:
First coat of Ford jade green:
I'm aware that it's not really suitable, but what the heck - it's a guitar made of MDF, so that'll do.
The milk paint thing didn't work out - I mixed it carelessly, which didn't help, but it clearly wasn't going to give a satisfactory result.
Sticking with the 'that'll do' ethos (and avoiding spending), rattle can car spray it is. I had some left over from some pedals I put together, so...
Primer:
First coat of Ford jade green:
I'm aware that it's not really suitable, but what the heck - it's a guitar made of MDF, so that'll do.
S
swarfrat
Guest
I like it! I should probably stick to bolting pre-finished parts together since it takes me on average 10 years to get one done. But...
I've thought about doing something like this before, not out of MDF, but like a skeleton frame of 1/4" SPF (Spruce/Pine/Fir - aka dimensional lumber) with a perimeter of harder wood (like ash) to take the bumps, skinned with 1/8" panelling. Perimeter being glued up out of a few large pieces and routed to shape, not bent.
I'm reasonably certain that as long as you have a solid space under the bridge and neck joint, and you have some full body thickness beams running between the two pockets, most of the area between can be hollow and it will still behave as a rigid body with gobs of excess strength remaining.
I've thought about doing something like this before, not out of MDF, but like a skeleton frame of 1/4" SPF (Spruce/Pine/Fir - aka dimensional lumber) with a perimeter of harder wood (like ash) to take the bumps, skinned with 1/8" panelling. Perimeter being glued up out of a few large pieces and routed to shape, not bent.
I'm reasonably certain that as long as you have a solid space under the bridge and neck joint, and you have some full body thickness beams running between the two pockets, most of the area between can be hollow and it will still behave as a rigid body with gobs of excess strength remaining.
BigSteve22
Hero Member
- Messages
- 2,798
Sure is! That's a great color..... :headbang:Rgand said:
Fat Pete
Hero Member
- Messages
- 1,656
swarfrat said:
Go for it. Strength wouldn't be an issue - just look at acoustic guitar construction - my impression is that if you use a solid centre block - or beam(s) as you describe - then the guitar will 'behave' like a solid body. Even with large chambers like a thinline Tele, the air inside acts as part of a closed system, with any tonal impact being related to the reduced mass. Any kind of sound-hole will change the acoustic behaviour, but it's debatable how much that feeds into the string vibration that can be detected by magnetic pickups, though there may be microphonic effects - especially with unpotted pickups.
The above is just my impression and YMMV etc.
Having commented about the strength, I now fully expect this one to fold up when I try to tune it the first time.
BigSteve22 said:
Thanks both. It was the suitability of using automotive rattle cans I was referring to rather than the colour. The real suitability issue is letting me try to apply a finish to anything. Still, again, that'll do.
Fat Pete
Hero Member
- Messages
- 1,656
This has been literally hanging around for a couple of months while I've been 'getting on' with other stuff. (I have an actual commission for a guitar body build - woo hoo!) I noticed it glaring balefully at me yesterday, so I thought I'd screw the bits together. Cheating really as it's not wired up, but it looked comfortable and softly (flatteringly) lit, so I took a couple of pics.
Looks like this:
I will try to get the electrics done and do the high-production-value video soon...
Looks like this:
I will try to get the electrics done and do the high-production-value video soon...
