Is it alright to post non-Warmoth projects here?

I've had good luck with sandpaper wrapped around a dowel to remove the finish coat inside the post holes, then pressing (which sometimes counterintuitively works much better than hammering!) the posts in using a skateboard wheel and my body weight šŸ¤£ Glad you got those suckers in!


From what I read, it sounded like pressing was probably the better method but I didn't think I could manage the force without a drill press. Sanding out the finish does sound like it'd make that easier but I never would have thought of a skateboard wheel lol. I doubt I'll do another Floyd but I'll keep that in mind in case I change my mind on that. Really, the only reason I went with a Floyd was because I could get a red one, that finish does have the hardtail option and I was going to do that but I felt I had to do the red Floyd haha. I'd never setup a Floyd from scratch either and that really took some doing but it's staying in tune very nicely and the UnLock is working great. They also make the locking nuts in different colors but I decided to try the Unlock instead and so far, so good.
 
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From what I read, it sounded like pressing was probably the better method but I didn't think I could manage the force without a drill press. Sanding out the finish does sound like it'd make that easier but I never would have thought of a skateboard wheel lol. I doubt I'll do another Floyd but I'll keep that in mind in case I change my mind on that. Really, the only reason I went with a Floyd was because I could get a red one, that finish does have the hardtail option and I was going to do that but I felt I had to do the red Floyd haha. I'd never setup a Floyd from scratch either and that really took some doing but it's staying in tune very nicely and the UnLock is working great. They also make the locking nuts in different colors but I decided to try the Unlock instead and so far, so good.
It was back when I had very few tools (though I still don't have a press, and it was a lot of work sanding the post holes without a drill). The feeling of hammering on a gorgeous guitar body that cost more than my first new guitar was instantly too disturbing, so I covered the body with a towel and pressed the post the rest of the way with the sk8 wheel for grip, but a rubber mallet would have been more stable.

I had no idea a red Floyd was even a thing! Apparently there was a whole series of colors I never knew existed... red, blue, green, goldenrod, champagne, and coffee šŸ¤“
 
It was back when I had very few tools (though I still don't have a press, and it was a lot of work sanding the post holes without a drill). The feeling of hammering on a gorgeous guitar body that cost more than my first new guitar was instantly too disturbing, so I covered the body with a towel and pressed the post the rest of the way with the sk8 wheel for grip, but a rubber mallet would have been more stable.

I had no idea a red Floyd was even a thing! Apparently there was a whole series of colors I never knew existed... red, blue, green, goldenrod, champagne, and coffee šŸ¤“

I also covered with a towel just in case haha. I thought I could at least keep from bashing the body with a hammer but I was still a bit nervous about it. I figured though, at worst, I would have to dowel and redrill the holes. I didn't see where it could get any worse than that and fortunately, it all worked out lol.


I had seen the different colored Floyds a while back and forgot about them. I got to thinking about using a Floyd rather than a hardtail and rediscovered them while looking at my options. I remember now wanting to put a Pink Floyd on something just for the pun but I just couldn't find that funny enough to actually do it haha.

NICE projects! how does the Brian-May-style switching work? is it on-off and phase reversal on each pup?


Thanks. Yeah, the bottom 3 are on/off and the top 3 are in/out of phase. It can get some crazy sounds! I find there are also some great and really useful tones as well. The craziest I've found is all 3 on with the neck out of phase, it kinda messes with my ears because it sounds so unlike anything I've ever played with before haha. It's not an everyday use type tone but I think I can figure out some ways to use it. I'm still finding myself messing with the switches more than really playing it, but I'll get used to it enough to cut that out eventually lol.
 
My ESP LTD EX-100 (left-handed) (named "The B-2" because it was all black in the 2000s, and it looks like it could fly) is not a project but a work in progress.

My grandmother, mother, father, and sisters gave me this guitar as a graduation gift. I have other guitars, but this was a gift from my family, and my grandmother was involved. She died at almost 102, and she liked to hear me play. She played classical and jazz on a bass violin in the 1930s.

This guitar has been all over the country with me, and it is worn-in and comfortable to play. It needed a lot of repairs and sat in pieces in my closet for a while. Now, I have made the necessary repairs to get it playing again. It works! It is not my main guitar, but it makes music. Many repairs were done a certain way because replacement parts were difficult to find (and some were non-existent). I have taken this guitar and played it all over the country for 20 years. The first picture makes it look dirty, but it is not that bad.

I re-wired it, added chrome hardware, and re-built the pickups. They were brass-based ceramics, and I bought nickel plates, chrome covers, and AlNiCo 4 magnets to upgrade them. The 12th inlay was in pieces, and I filled it while I looked for something better. It got slammed around in a few moves (long story), and I had to adjust a lot to accommodate for the (now) thinner neck and HEAVY-rolled fretboard. I have never made and shaped a nut; here I am with a Dremel and a set of files because the string spacing is now narrow (the fretboard has some issues along the sides, which made it necessary). It functions and intonates well, and I played it for an hour after re-assembly. I did a re-fret and saved the rosewood fretboard. I have a slab of ebony slotted and ready, but I aim to save as much of the original wood parts as possible.

The damage was due to a cheap gig bag and a case that slid around in (only 2-3 inches, but it damaged it between California, South Dakota, and Texas in a U-haul). It is pretty good for a guy who can only use one hand and has never done some of these repairs. I am learning, and I will keep improving this guitar. I will update you guys if you are interested. It lives in a case that fits and plays and sounds much better than it looks.

Fun fact: I got my hands on some parts meant for more expensive versions (other models of this guitar made at the time). Thanks to Guitar Fetish, I have three bodies from the Korean factory in which this guitar was made. Two of them are not drilled for bridges, and I will use Warmoth necks for two of them. I have a 24.75-inch scale neck for the one that is. I am thinking of Arcade Necks for the other two.
 

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Just so you guys know, not all of my work looks that bad. Here are two other projects with Warmoth necks. The blue guitar is a 1999 MIM Fender Stratocaster I have played on four continents. It has original paint, and I got the pickguard from Esty. I bought this at a Guitar Center in San Bernardino, CA, in 1999, and it is the guitar on which I re-learned how to play guitar (left-handed) after a car accident. Three sets of pickups, two necks, and a rewire later, it is my Mojave Stratocaster and a tribute to my mother's stories from the 1960s and early 1970s.

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How was the neck pocket on the XGP. I bought one of those bodies a few years ago before moving across country and decided sell it before the move. Now Iā€™m looking at them again. Iā€™ve seen some people online saying they had to alter the neck pocket to get necks to fit. Others say they are fine.
 
The tele and strat I have both have decent neck pockets BUT the screw pattern is the right shape but in the wrong spot. I would order a neck without mounting holes if you are not comfortable filling and drilling the ones from warmoth.

Also I cant recommend the tele bodies as the bridge placement is a good 1/4" too far back. Vintage Tele bridges have a lot of forward adjustment range so they will likely intonate but the pickup will be too far back and extra bright.
 
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