Initial build setup

[pirate]

This seems like a pretty good guide for a setup after I have everything assembled. Anything important missing here?

https://diystrat.blogspot.com/2015/05/how-to-set-up-fender-telecaster-style.html

 

[AirCap]

The guide forgot one thing.... Setting the action at the nut before intonation. If the action is not low enough at the nut, you will be sharping the string at both ends while playing and the guitar will never play in tune.

So the order is this - truss rod, bridge height, nut, then intonation.

 

[stratamania]

And here you can watch it being done in the very order Aircap mentioned.


[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHHepmTX3So[/youtube]

Here is the playlist

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLB7631EF18F62E16D

 

[BigSteve22]

Do you guys really adjust the truss rod under tension? I was taught that you measure under tension (tuned to pitch), adjust at rest (after loosening the strings), then re-tune and measure again. Repeating as necessary. Have I been doing it wrong all these years?  ???

 

[AirCap]

Have I been doing it wrong all these years?

Yes. The truss rod's function is to offset the tension of the strings at pitch...

Also, I do not remove the capo until I set the action at the bridge on guitars that have never been setup. If the nut happens to be very high, and I set the action without a capo, the strings could be too low once I lower the action at the nut. Small difference, I know - but you'll like the result better if you wait to remove the capo.

 

[BigSteve22]

Have I been doing it wrong all these years?

Yes. The truss rod's function is to offset the tension of the strings at pitch...

Yes, I understand that. What I'm saying, is that I was taught to measure the relief at pitch, under tension, de-tune before making any adjustments to the truss rod, and then re-tune and measure again at pitch to check your progress. The reason being, to not put undo stress on the adjusting nut and threads by forcing it move the neck against not only the mass of the wood, but also against the added tension exerted by the strings at pitch. Less tension on the rod, making it easier to turn the nut, and less likely to damage the threads or contact surfaces.

Maybe I was taught that way because of the quality of truss rods installed on the cheap guitars we played back then. Surely, making the adjustments at pitch would save a lot of time, and I realize that equals money to a pro.

Thanks for the response, and the advice. And just FYI, I always have the nut cut by a pro, too easy for an amateur, like myself, to screw up!

 

[AirCap]

Oh, my bad. I get it now.

If a truss rod can't handle being adjusted under tension - what good is it? There is just no point to loosening the strings, adjusting the truss rod a smidge (you are guessing how far it needs to go), and then cranking the tension back up....

In a busy shop, time is money... You want to spend all your time cranking on tuning machine buttons? I don't either.