In my time of dyeing

[ildar]

I'm wondering about the water soluble dye that Reranch and Stew Mac, et. al. sell. How similar are those dyes to, let's say, fabric dyes or other types of readily available dyes and pigments? Moreover, can fabric dye be used under lacquer?

 

[-CB-]

RIT liquid dye can be used under lacquer, no problems... except.....

Water based dyes do raise the grain a bit - just know that.

And do let the body dry and dry again, as trapped water will cloud the lacquer.

So, keep it dry, keep it well smooth, and you're set to go.

Alcohol and acetone based dyes raise the grain too, but not nearly as much.

 

[ildar]

Thanks CB. This is good news, I think, as I'd like to do a two tone dye anyway-black first, sand it back, then??? So, black rit would serve perfectly as I'll be sanding anyway.

 

[-CB-]

yup!

 

[SmooveOperator]

Im looking to do the exact same thing with a body I just ordered from warmoth. So am I understanding correctly that I should not do the dye over several days before I laquer it? I originally was planning on doing black first to expose the texture (sanding it down after about 20 - 30 min of drying), then a color burst (greens). Then wait for it completely dry before I put a lacquer on. I assume you mean don't dye it, dry it completely, and apply more dyes?

Also, can you make a good recommendation on which product you'd use for clear coat at the end of using water based dyes? I would prefer something super clear and durable.

One more question, is it necessary to hit it with some oil after it's completely dyed and before you put your clear coat on?


Sorry for the dumb questions... this will be my first project.

 

[ildar]

Im looking to do the exact same thing with a body I just ordered from warmoth. So am I understanding correctly that I should not do the dye over several days before I laquer it? I originally was planning on doing black first to expose the texture (sanding it down after about 20 - 30 min of drying), then a color burst (greens). Then wait for it completely dry before I put a lacquer on. I assume you mean don't dye it, dry it completely, and apply more dyes?

Also, can you make a good recommendation on which product you'd use for clear coat at the end of using water based dyes? I would prefer something super clear and durable.

One more question, is it necessary to hit it with some oil after it's completely dyed and before you put your clear coat on?


Sorry for the dumb questions... this will be my first project.

I'll try to help here, though my knowledge is limited...you have been warned.  :glasses10:
I believe CB meant to let the body dry thoroughly after first dye and before sanding it,  then re-dyeing, sanding again, than clear coat. In other words, let it dry thoroughly between each step, unless you'e going for something with the dye by keeping a wet edge or something.
It's my understanding that you can use any clear coat over water based dyes, but I'm not sure about that.
Finally, I wouldn't use any oil under any clear coat, it will cause a problem with adhesion.

 

[ildar]

A further dye question-my 1st instinct was to use black, sand that back then use another color, I think blue in this case. But, I don't want the blue to be dominant, so should I dye blue first, or can I control the amount of black that remains by how much sanding I do?

 

[jackthehack]

1.) If using any kind of dye, but especially with a water based product, the application will raise the grain of the wood a bit. Also; water based dye is going to take a lot longer longer to COMPLETELY dry; it may feel dry at surface to the touch; but isn't really. Let it set at least an extra day or longer depending on temperature/humidity levels after you THINK it's dry. If you don't you may get a little residual grain raising that would need another sanding, or if you start shooting sanding sealer/lacquer on top it may cloud up in places.

"A further dye question-my 1st instinct was to use black, sand that back then use another color, I think blue in this case. But, I don't want the blue to be dominant, so should I dye blue first, or can I control the amount of black that remains by how much sanding I do?

2.) Personally, I think it usually works out better to do the darker color first when dying. What kind of wood with which sort of figuring will you use?  That could make a lot of difference... Generally you can control the amount of color by sanding back to a degree; but having never used water-based dyes you might run into an issue in which you might have to sand back more than you want due to the grain raising and re-apply to get the coloring effect you want. The type of wood used is a big factor in this regard.

 

[ildar]

A very typical quilt maple.