ideas for a VIP-build

[groms]

Hi
I´m new to the forum.

I´ve been thinking for a while about getting a custom guitar, and have had  a few specific ideas about it. In short, I´m thinking curved top and curved back, both flamed maple, single bucker (bridge), string through body, master volume and coil-tap switch. possibly piezo. Maybe also flame maple neck, and ebony fingerboard. No inlays, or a single 12th fret inlay. I´m thinking amber/brown dye with a careful darker brown burst, also on the neck.

I´ve been in touch with Warmoth about making something like this, together with a modified neckjoint, but it doesn´t look like that´s going to happen.
So, the closest thing to this, as far as I can see, is a standard VIP body of solid flamed maple, and flamed maple neck and rosewood fingerboard for a little warmth, soundwise. Also, I´ll probably have to modify the neckjoint myself, and get some countersunk bolts.

So, any comments from you gents? especially about a solid flamed maple guitar...do anyone have pics of FM bodies?

Another question; is it hopeless to countersink neck-bolts on a finished body, and do some touch-up painting? If I have to finish myself, then I´m considering dyeing, then oiling the whole guitar, since I don´t exactly have a dust-free paintbooth at home...

 

[dbw]

Why do you want a curved back?  :icon_scratch:  If that's your thing you could get a solid VIP and just sand it so the back is contoured.... hope you have a power sander though.  Just seems kinda silly to me  :dontknow:

Solid flame maple looks COOL though... I've only seen a few.  There's a bass on the showcase right now:

Hope it works out... sounds a little shreddy for my taste but if you get a solid flame maple body we want to SEE it!  arty07:

 

[stratplayer1]

i like it, but why bother with the countersunk bolts and modified neck joint? bolts and neck-plate work fine, anyway sounds like it'll be pretty sick

 

[dbw]

There was a big thread recently about countersunk bolts.  I think the upshot was you need to drill the holes yourself in non-standard locations.

 

[nathan a]

Sounds HEAVY to me.

 

[tfarny]

Here's the only maple guitar body in the showcase - 4.5 lb, not that heavy at all. NOT into that finish either. Well, it's your dream so good luck getting as close as you can. Why all-maple though?

 

[groms]

The reason behind the ideas is to try to capture the essence of classic string instruments (violin/cello etc., old arch-top guitars..) in a modern, fully electric guitar. That´s where the curved back came in, and also the reason for using only one HB, to get as much exposed wood in a single surface as possible. This goes for the flamed maple neck too. I know, they use pruce tops, but I like the flamed maple better . I was also thinking of using an ebony trapeze tailpiece, but I think it will only look lumpy and out of place on a modern solidbody. String-thru will also give less hardware.

The original idea was to use mahogany chambered body, and flamed maple top and back. On a standard VIP body, the all-maple is the only solution for getting a flamed maple back, also because of the tummy-cut.

About the neck-joint; I´ve never cared for the fender-neckjoint. To me, it feels lumpy and fabricated, instead of good workmanship. Aslo, when playing, my thumb cushion ( ? ) stops on the pocket edge and hinders my upper fret access. I understand the gain of being able to use all neck on all bodies, but to me, the fender neckjoint actually only works on single cutaways, when you have limited access anyway. Then the pocket is inside the body. On double cutaways, the whole point is to be able to grip the neck, also with your thumb, further up the neck. Having a neck-pocket almost as thick as the body, sticking out of the body, and reaching to 15th ( ? ) fret doesn´t really make sense to me. Not sure how much I can do on my own, though, to "smoothen" it a bit...

 

[DanDeTora]

About the neck-joint; I´ve never cared for the fender-neckjoint. To me, it feels lumpy and fabricated, instead of good workmanship. Aslo, when playing, my thumb cushion ( ? ) stops on the pocket edge and hinders my upper fret access. I understand the gain of being able to use all neck on all bodies, but to me, the fender neckjoint actually only works on single cutaways, when you have limited access anyway. Then the pocket is inside the body. On double cutaways, the whole point is to be able to grip the neck, also with your thumb, further up the neck. Having a neck-pocket almost as thick as the body, sticking out of the body, and reaching to 15th ( ? ) fret doesn´t really make sense to me. Not sure how much I can do on my own, though, to "smoothen" it a bit...

+ 1 on the neck joint, although the contoured heel option (well, standard on a VIP) is relatively comfy. I say relatively because compared to my Ibanez it does feel clunky. I've too thought about reshaping and smoothing out the heel on my Warmoth strat - I haven't grown the cajones yet, but I think some wood rasps and a bit of patience would get the job done.

 

[groms]

About the neck-joint; I´ve never cared for the fender-neckjoint. To me, it feels lumpy and fabricated, instead of good workmanship. Aslo, when playing, my thumb cushion ( ? ) stops on the pocket edge and hinders my upper fret access. I understand the gain of being able to use all neck on all bodies, but to me, the fender neckjoint actually only works on single cutaways, when you have limited access anyway. Then the pocket is inside the body. On double cutaways, the whole point is to be able to grip the neck, also with your thumb, further up the neck. Having a neck-pocket almost as thick as the body, sticking out of the body, and reaching to 15th ( ? ) fret doesn´t really make sense to me. Not sure how much I can do on my own, though, to "smoothen" it a bit...

+ 1 on the neck joint, although the contoured heel option (well, standard on a VIP) is relatively comfy. I say relatively because compared to my Ibanez it does feel clunky. I've too thought about reshaping and smoothing out the heel on my Warmoth strat - I haven't grown the cajones yet, but I think some wood rasps and a bit of patience would get the job done.

Does anyone know how strong a neck pocket is? How much wood can be removed without risking a break?
Would be great to see any pics if anyone has adjusted their neckjoints...

I´ve also been thinking of using a mahogany body, dark brown back, burst on the top and back of neck. Might work.