Leaderboard

How would you finish a Bubinga top?

Vol. Knob

Hero Member
Messages
601
I just got through placing my first order for a Warmoth body.  They didnt have my first or second choice of top woods, DOH!  So I went with my third choice of Bubinga.  I'm not complaining, not at all.  Bubinga is a good looking wood.

Its a Double F hole Thinline with recessed Tune-o-matic.  Bubinga top on Mahogony back.

Finishing recomendations?  I'm not a fan of Glossy, I prefer to see the wood rather than a reflection from a light source.
 
Oil/wax would be the most natural. If you want something a little more durable, Reranch has a satin nitro.
 
Thanks.  that's kinda what I planned on.  I am of the type to keep it as natural and true to the look of the wood as possible, except to perhaps darken it just a wee bit.
 
Bubinga is pretty hard and looks great with oil/wax.  With the mahogany being softer a hard finish might be better.
 
NonsenseTele said:
Solid black  :toothy12:  :help:

Flat black or glossy?  :icon_biggrin:  Blacker than the blackest black.  Blacker than, say, a leather jacket?  :guitarplayer2:

thumb55 said:
Bubinga is pretty hard and looks great with oil/wax.  With the mahogany being softer a hard finish might be better.

I'm not worried about the mahogany with an oil finish.  I have a MIJ '69 Thinline RI that I peeled the poly finish off of and then wiped down with Tung oil.  It handles just fine.  If Bubinga is harder, then I'm not worried at all.  I'm just wanting it to look nice.

Here's my '69 Thinline RI.  Tung goes nicely on Mahogany.
l_9eb6b59069384e53a4e260729c72244b.jpg
 
Vol. Knob said:
NonsenseTele said:
Solid black  :toothy12:  :help:

Flat black or glossy?   :icon_biggrin:  Blacker than the blackest black.  Blacker than, say, a leather jacket?   :guitarplayer2:

Satin Black! :evil4:

Serious, oil is the way I would go... But perhaps more coats than you put on that Tele, to it look more "shiny"... If it's the one with wood's P90, I would pick the Bocote one... To give a "classic-pimped" look (close color but with nice wood on it)
 
NonsenseTele said:
Solid black  :toothy12:  :help:

rats - you beat me to it!  :tard:

since the OP is not a fan of glossy, I recommend high temp flat black stove paint for the finish ... and don't forget to use an acrylic finger paint for the cavities - you don't want bare wood glaring at you  :icon_jokercolor:

all the best,

R
 
SkuttleFunk said:
NonsenseTele said:
Solid black  :toothy12:  :help:

rats - you beat me to it!  :tard:

since the OP is not a fan of glossy, I recommend high temp flat black stove paint for the finish ... and don't forget to use an acrylic finger paint for the cavities - you don't want bare wood glaring at you  :icon_jokercolor:

all the best,

R
I beat you all MATTE BLACK!
 
Vol. Knob said:
NonsenseTele said:
Solid black  :toothy12:  :help:

Flat black or glossy?   :icon_biggrin:  Blacker than the blackest black.  Blacker than, say, a leather jacket?   :guitarplayer2:

thumb55 said:
Bubinga is pretty hard and looks great with oil/wax.  With the mahogany being softer a hard finish might be better.

I'm not worried about the mahogany with an oil finish.  I have a MIJ '69 Thinline RI that I peeled the poly finish off of and then wiped down with Tung oil.  It handles just fine.  If Bubinga is harder, then I'm not worried at all.  I'm just wanting it to look nice.

Here's my '69 Thinline RI.  Tung goes nicely on Mahogany.
l_9eb6b59069384e53a4e260729c72244b.jpg
Is that a Warmoth neck on that RI Tele? It looks like a  goncolo alves fretboard, never seen Fender use anything that nice, specially on a MIJ..
 
You needn't worry about a hard finish on a mahogany body (neck would be a different story). Easiest way to finish that body non-gloss leaving the wood perfectly natural looking is like I did my Rosewood lam top/Mahogany Strat, WATCO Danish Oil.
 
Back
Top