Help please! TOM bushings problem!!

[CrackedPepper]

I am trying to install my Babicz FCH TOM replacement bridge.  If you ever get one of these, please note that you may/probably will have to enlarge the holes.  The bushings seem pretty large but YMMV... Sidenote:  all the folks out there that hate the thought of having the Babicz logo so prominent on their stop tail, a regular tail fits just fine.

Background:
So I used my drill press to progressively enlarge the holes 1 drill bit size at a time going from 13/32 to 31/64 in (10.32mm  to 12.30mm).  The bushing itself tapers measuring 12.25mm at its narrowest to 12.7 where the bushing will rest flush with the guitar.  My goal was to open the holes just enough to get this thing started and then use my drill to press the bushings in.  This has worked perfectly for me in the past.

So here is where I need help.  I got the bushings in about halfway and they just stopped.  I tried tapping them in with a hammer and a small block of plywood but they don't want to go in any further.  I am afraid to push them any harder for fear of cracking the finish.  There is no way I can get them out with something like this which I don't own but will buy (reluctantly at that price) if I have to.

Does anyone have any advice on how to proceed?

 

[Cagey]

I doubt that StewMac tool has enough grunt to pull a bushing. But, a claw hammer and a pad will do it.

Run the mounting post (or a bolt with the same thread) into the bushing, then put the claw of a claw hammer under the post/bolt head. Place something relatively soft but firm (a paint stirrer or a wooden shim or something like that) between the guitar body and the fulcrum point (where the top of the hammer meets the guitar body) to protect the finish, and just pry the bushing out like a bent nail.

 

[pabloman]

Slide hammer. :guitaristgif:

 

[stubhead]

I wonder how many guitar "relic'ing" projects actually start out this way.....

I would definitely start by getting another BOLT the right size to fit the threads, I guess you can't take even one of the bushings to the hardware store? If you get the shortest bolt possible, it's tough, sturdy, non-plated, un-valuable head will be closer to the guitar face allowing the claw of the hammer optimal leverage. As it starts to lift out, you can keep increasing the thickness of the wood blocks under the hammer... couldn't hurt to change angles and sides if it's being particularly bitchy. At some point, someone may suggest trying to chill the inserts so as to shrink them. Whack them with the hammer and just do as we say.

(tho... if you bought TWO bolts and stuck them in the free-eezer.... ah shite, never mind)


(I just priced "slide hammers" from $70 - $227. clearly the best option. Tell mom to get one when she goes out for the butter,,,,)

 

[CrackedPepper]

I have access to a slide hammer - how would that work in the scenario?

 

[pabloman]

They can be found much cheaper than that. And yes it is the best option if the correct hammer or attachment is used. It eliminates prying against the body. But whatever. Do it your way I'll do it mine.

 

[CrackedPepper]

Look guys, I kmade the mistake of trying to fit a big peg and a small whole and I am just looking for advice before I make matters worse. I don't want to get caught in the middle of some pissing contest, I am just trying to evaluate all my options.  I appreciate everyone's input/perspective/help on the forum or else I would have asked the question somewhere else.

I recognize that I could pry it up but I would like to hear other ideas before proceeding. 

So pabloman, what would be the correct hammer and attachment in your experience?

 

[pabloman]

I would probably go with a hook. If there is a lip on the bushing just grab it there. Use light blows and alternate side to side. what you want to avoid is distorting the hole. ideally something that threads nice and solid into the bushing and connects to the hammer would be available but probably not. I'm not sure what hammer you have. there are several types.  go slow and good luck.

 

[CrackedPepper]

Thanks Guys! 

 

[CrackedPepper]

Just a follow up - following pabloman's suggestion, I successfully removed the bushings using a cheap borrowed Harbor Freight slide hammer which apparently only cost my friend about $20.  I wanted to document how this worked to help anyone else who encounters this problem.

If you look at the picture below, there is a box shaped hook on the upper left:

You can't see it in the picture but the box is open on one side and has a slot where the threaded portion of the bolt slides in.  The bolt head then rests against the inside surface of the hook and provides a lifting surface.

Following Cagey's and stubhead's advice, I picked up an M8 1.25 pitch hex bolt from the local hardware store that matched the threads on my stud post.  Using a Dremel, I had to grind a couple of flat spots on either size so the bolt would fit the opening of the hook.  Once the bolt fit, I fit the hook to the slide hammer, placed the bolt in the bushing, slid the hook over the bolt and gently hammered the bushing out while a helper held the guitar in place.  The whole process took about 15 minutes.  Ten of that was grinding.

Thanks again guys - I appreciate your help on this.  I got this done without damaging the guitar!

 

[stubhead]

Some basic vernier calipers may help in future events - they're not used for absolute measurements as much as comparative ones, I've seen them for $5 of the bargain table at ACE. The ones with a gear action hold a setting better, but even the open slide ones are better than nothing, as are the dividers from a decent compass set. It's hard to see a ruler's scale clearly sometimes, but you can set the calipers or dividers and hold them to the ruler.

 

[CrackedPepper]

Agreed - thank you

 

[Cagey]

Speaking of calipers...

Parts Express sells these stainless steel metric/imperial digital calipers for $24.95, often putting them on sale for $19.95...

as well as these plastic units for $2.50...

The digital units are pretty nice. I've bought several of them for myself and as gifts because they work well and don't cost much, so you can keep multiple copies around and if you break/lose them it's not a tragedy, and you don't have to handle them with kid gloves like you might a $150 Brown & Sharp/Mitutoyo/Starrett part. I keep one in my guitar toolbox for measuring strings, frets, fasteners, neck dims, hole diameters and depths, string and bridge heights, etc.

 

[pabloman]

The digital guys also have a nice SAE/metric conversion button. Glad it all worked out CP. It's so rewarding solving your own problems.