Help, I'm ready for a "tax refund" build... Maple body?!

Cagey said:
Steel is not an element - it can be made in a nearly infinite number of alloys, so its permeability/reluctance (among other qualities) varies accordingly. Since the sensing of string vibration on an electric guitar depends heavily on magnetism, it follows that strings with the same cross section, length and under the same tension but made of different alloys will sound different. For example, Ernie Ball recently came out with their "Cobalt" line of strings where...

Seeking to provide guitarists with a new voice, Cobalt strings provide an extended dynamic range, incredible harmonic response, increased low end, and crisp, clear highs. Cobalt provides a stronger magnetic relationship between pickups and strings than any other alloy previously available. Cobalt Slinkys are also soft and silky to the touch, making string bending a breeze.

...and you might not believe this, little fella, but they'll cure your asthma, too!

Anyway, they're still steel strings, but apparently they added some cobalt to the mix to produce these magical strings. If they'd have added some chromium and nickel, they'd be stainless cobalt steel strings, and they'd cure cancer  :laughing7:

Point is, they're made of steel, like most guitar strings, but they sound/feel different.

Wow I didn't know that. Always the informative one, sir. That actually makes me feel better about myself too haha I knew I wasn't crazy.
 
Cagey said:
In the decision tree for fretwire, there is no path for nickel-silver alloy.

FretwireFlowchart_zpskcsjcvut.jpg

See?

Love your diagram, Cagey. Makes perfect sense! :toothy12:

Cagey said:
... For example, Ernie Ball recently came out with their "Cobalt" line of strings where...

I recently tried those, but wasn't that impressed. I thought they felt more stiff than what I usually use. I prefer their M-Steels over those, but prefer D'Addario's Pro-Steels over Ernie Ball. And any steel strings, no matter the brand, over nickel strings. (why use strings that are less bright?)
 
Maple bodies seem to average around 5 or so pounds in weight when I have spotted them in the showcase. I know one guy who theorized harder woods are possibly brighter than "softer" woods. We could debate such things for eons. I like your idea about a one pickup guitar and remain of the opinion that it is limited mainly by your imagination and picking. (picking notes up on the neck itself mimicking somewhat a neck pickup etc) As for basswood, I thought Guthrie Govan is using that in his present Charvel, if so give a listen. But I know basswood is one of the softer woods that dents readily.

I have a Bubinga neck on a strat and a yet to be used Wenge one I haven't played yet so I can only comment about the Bubinga. it is wonderful IMO. If I had to describe anything I think I hear tonally I would say it is rich but a tad bit rounder in attack from maple. You couldn't go wrong with Bubinga if they can ship it to you. (present regulations and Warmoth waiting for clearance to ship woods on the restricted list out of the USA)

Fretwise, I have both stainless and nickel. Like both. If you think you play enough to wear down nickle, stainless does indeed have the longevity factor. A lot of people do wear frets, I've known some who don't wear them down even after 20 years of bar bands. In my earlier/younger go at playing i never wore down any frets.

But post pictures of the finished project. I am not the only one with a great interest in one pickup guitars and what we all get up to on the forum guitar wise.
 
musicispeace said:
I have a Bubinga neck on a strat and a yet to be used Wenge one I haven't played yet so I can only comment about the Bubinga. it is wonderful IMO. If I had to describe anything I think I hear tonally I would say it is rich but a tad bit rounder in attack from maple. You couldn't go wrong with Bubinga if they can ship it to you. (present regulations and Warmoth waiting for clearance to ship woods on the restricted list out of the USA) a

Thanks for all the Intel. I like Guthrie so Ill see if I can check out his sig or at least listen to some clips.

And Bubinga on a Strat actually sounds genius! Add a little chunk but its still bright (or so I assume). Must look killer too... Pics?  :icon_biggrin:

What fretboard would you recommend? I was thinking Rosewood to smooth out the highs or is it pretty smooth with your setup? Maybe I'll go Wenge or Pau Ferro.

musicispeace said:
But post pictures of the finished project. I am not the only one with a great interest in one pickup guitars and what we all get up to on the forum guitar wise.

Thanks. It may look like a little quirky to some haha but in my weird world of cool, its gonna be awesome!

I keep forgetting to post pics of things so apologies in advanced. I forgot to post finished pics of my Strat. I probably should do that now that I remember... Wonder if I should revamp that thread though its several months old...
 
On my Bubinga neck I have a Bubinga fretboard. I do love rosewood for many reasons. Either way I think would be great. Attaching pic, body slightly relic'd by MJT guitars and Cagey from the forum put it all together as I was without tools and not far enough yet on builds. Zhangbucker pickups.
 

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Logrinn said:
Nice pickguard. Where did you get that?

That came from WD Music. Thought it was overpriced but when they hook ya what are ya gonna do. I had to call to get the HSS cutout version. Lately I have been using Greasy Groove based in eastern Canada. A bit cheaper and heavy duty.

http://www.wdmusic.com/fender_strat_pickguard_st_256.html

http://www.greasygroove.com/products.php?cat=44
 
Wow! Those Greasy Groove folks really got your back! If you can't find the pickguard of your dreams in that lot, you just don't want a pickguard.
 
musicispeace said:
On my Bubinga neck I have a Bubinga fretboard. I do love rosewood for many reasons. Either way I think would be great. Attaching pic, body slightly relic'd by MJT guitars and Cagey from the forum put it all together as I was without tools and not far enough yet on builds. Zhangbucker pickups.

Nice looking guitar.  Bubinga is a lot lighter than I thought. Kinda reminds me of Roasted Maple but reddish orange.

I may go all Bubinga myself.
 
AllHailDIO said:
I may go all Bubinga myself.

I have a Bubinga neck that I like real well. It's also what Rickenbacker uses for fretboards on their nicer instruments. It doesn't require a finish and burnishes up really nice. Because of that, you can actually end up with a nicer neck for the same money or less than a more traditional construction. For example, a Bubinga over Maple neck is $192 but you have to put a finish on it, which is an $80 adder so your total would be $272. But, Bubinga over Bubinga is $272, and doesn't require a finish. That's called a "no-brainer". If you've not played an unfinished neck, run a poll here and I think you'll find 90% or better of the members will choose unfinished every time. They feel fantastic. Anyone who tries it never goes back to finished necks.

To sweeten it a bit more, you might consider Bubinga over Roasted Maple. Roasted Maple doesn't need a finish either and has a finer grain, so it burnishes up even smoother. A neck like that is only $232.

Of course, you have to add SS frets and a nut to all of those, so final price will be a bit taller.
 
Cagey said:
AllHailDIO said:
I may go all Bubinga myself.

I have a Bubinga neck that I like real well. It's also what Rickenbacker uses for fretboards on their nicer instruments. It doesn't require a finish and burnishes up really nice. Because of that, you can actually end up with a nicer neck for the same money or less than a more traditional construction. For example, a Bubinga over Maple neck is $192 but you have to put a finish on it, which is an $80 adder so your total would be $272. But, Bubinga over Bubinga is $272, and doesn't require a finish. That's called a "no-brainer". If you've not played an unfinished neck, run a poll here and I think you'll find 90% or better of the members will choose unfinished every time. They feel fantastic. Anyone who tries it never goes back to finished necks.

To sweeten it a bit more, you might consider Bubinga over Roasted Maple. Roasted Maple doesn't need a finish either and has a finer grain, so it burnishes up even smoother. A neck like that is only $232.

Of course, you have to add SS frets and a nut to all of those, so final price will be a bit taller.

Yep love my Roasted Maple on my Strat and my Wenge on my Korina Diamondback.

I kinda wish they had Padauk fretboard but they don't. Ill do all Bubinga. With all the custom features though its gonna cost $400 haha definitely more than I wanted but oh well...
 
Some pretty things have a pretty price. I bought a curly Koa neck with a curly Maple headstock veneer and black Ebony 'board with a vintage gloss finish and stainless frets that I think I paid nearly $700 for. Plus, I have a one-piece all Ziricote neck, and a one-piece all Ebony neck. They didn't give up those babies easily. Some of the other necks that have come through here had some pretty frightening prices on them, too. But - they were all so pretty! Plus, they instantly made you play like Stevie Ray Vaughn, Jeff Beck, Joe Satrini, and a few others. You know - like all expensive equipment does  :laughing7:
 
Cagey said:
Plus, they instantly made you play like Stevie Ray Vaughn, Jeff Beck, Joe Satrini, and a few others. You know - like all expensive equipment does  :laughing7:

Haha oh yes I know  :icon_biggrin:

Actually idk how pretty this guitar will be haha. I'm loading up on custom specs... Neck contour, radius... I'm picky about my necks. Plus I want SS frets and 24 frets.

Nevertheless it'll look great in a natural minimalist / understated way.  I might get some nice dot inlays for fun. Azurite or MOP sounds fun.

I would pick Pau Ferro FB for looks but not feeling any of the unique choices.. Too streaky and straight. I prefer large creamy swirls of color. Still deciding on a FB or I just might have to wait for a good piece...
 
If you like the appearance of Pau Ferro, you might want to check the unique choices for Rosewood. Usually, that stuff is pretty pedestrian - I mean, even Walmart guitars have Rosewood necks. But, every once in a while they'll get a piece that'll knock your socks off.

Also, if you're into unusual grain patterns, don't forget to look at the Ziricote pieces. Some of that is pretty wild, too. Finally, Macassar Ebony isn't always just a piece of flawed-looking black Ebony. Some of those are breathtaking as well.

In all cases above, don't be afraid to forego inlays. It takes no time at all to get used to using side dots only, and you don't disturb the fantastic grain patterns.
 
I was looking at Unique Choices for laminate tops for bodies... Now I'm in trouble...  :toothy12:

I was planning on splitting my spending pool to get a cheap used 5-string bass in addition to a Warmoth build but I think it's all going towards this build! 

Oh well...  :icon_tongue:
 
If you get a super-fancy neck, you probably want a simpler, perhaps even opaque-finished body. So, maybe you'll even save money there. When it comes to guitars, the neck is the thing. That's where you spend most of your time and that's the part that's going affect the sound the most (after your playing style and pickups).

As for an inexpensive used bass, why go used? Check out this little lovely...

sculptor5wr3.jpg
sculptor5wr4.jpg

sculptor5wr5.jpg

Ash body, Maple neck, Rosewood 'board, Active (noiseless) pickups - $159 in the box, out the door. He has others here. Don't let the price fool you - I bought one of those some years back and was pretty impressed. Gave it away because I'm not a bass player and it was just hubris that made me buy it.
 
Cagey said:
AllHailDIO said:
I may go all Bubinga myself.

I have a Bubinga neck that I like real well. It's also what Rickenbacker uses for fretboards on their nicer instruments. It doesn't require a finish and burnishes up really nice. Because of that, you can actually end up with a nicer neck for the same money or less than a more traditional construction. For example, a Bubinga over Maple neck is $192 but you have to put a finish on it, which is an $80 adder so your total would be $272. But, Bubinga over Bubinga is $272, and doesn't require a finish. That's called a "no-brainer". If you've not played an unfinished neck, run a poll here and I think you'll find 90% or better of the members will choose unfinished every time. They feel fantastic. Anyone who tries it never goes back to finished necks.

To sweeten it a bit more, you might consider Bubinga over Roasted Maple. Roasted Maple doesn't need a finish either and has a finer grain, so it burnishes up even smoother. A neck like that is only $232.

Of course, you have to add SS frets and a nut to all of those, so final price will be a bit taller.

If you don't mind - could you help a neophyte understand the burnishing process as it pertains to raw wood necks?  I've sanded and polished raw wood in furniture/boats - is this the same thing? 

Are the visual effects the same as polishing/waxing a piece of mahogany?

Thanks!

 
Here is a link to the Burnishing Raw Necks Thread.

http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=19901.0
 
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