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Guitars with a locking trem but without locking tuners.

Neo Fender

Senior Member
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I have three (two running, one in the midst of assembly).

All of my future builds will most likely have locking tuners but I have two FR equipped “manufactured” guitars that do not have locking tuners.  The next time I restring, I’m going to start the string from the tuning machine, having the eyelet taut against the post.  I’ll trim the string length at the free end, clamp it down into the bridge , then tune up as usual.

In my mind, this will eliminate slippage while keeping the # of winds around the posts to a minimum.  Much of these two issues are mitigated by the locking nut but anyway…

Has anyone tried this?  Does the twisted end of the strings have any issues w/ being wound around the post?  Do they unravel?  Does it hurt the string’s self-esteem?  Will the string dream?

I know.  I could just sacrifice a $5.00 set of strings and answer this question for myself but I’m bored and I like to read things that I type when they appear on the internet so…

Anyone?

Thanks.
 
Just to make sure that I understand your scenario accurately, let me re-cap what I read.

You have FR equipped guitars (locking bridge) but do not currently have either a locking nut and/or locking tuners.

The theory you have posted might work if only doing a slight shimmer, but even then, the strings will experience stretching, and tuning anomalies will likely present themselves.

This will be especially true if the headstock is not designed for straight string pull, and you will also want to verify that you have adequate downward pressure as the string breaks over the nut.  Not too steep of a break angle, but not just barely laying on top of it as well.

Also, in the absence of a locking nut, when using a friction device like a tremolo/vibrato, a lubricated nut like the Tusq ones are ideal. 

Having said all of that, I would highly recommend locking tuners and a Tusq nut if you have a straight string pull headstock.

If you have a tilted headstock like a Jackson or Kramer or an Explorer, than the only way you're going to keep that in tune is by sticking a locking nut on it.  Even locking tuners won't keep that in tune if you shaking the wiggle stick in the least bit.  Too steep of a sideways friction point.

Just basic physics is all.
 
All of my FR guitars have a FR locking nut.  Just thought my method (not really mine) would eliminate winding strings around the posts
 
Actually, he *does* have the locking nut.  I'm personally not crazy about hanging the ball-end up at the tuning machine end of things (looks ugly, and the twisted portion of the string near the ball-end is likely to hang things up), but then I don't really drink the Floyd kool-aid generally.  But as long as the nut locks, it doesn't matter that much what you've got going on north of said nut.
 
And as a practical matter, how much are you winding around the post when you anchor the string at the post the conventional way, i.e., without the ball end?  I rarely get more than a wind-and-a-half on the wrapped strings, and the plain strings, maybe three winds.  Seems like it should be a non-issue.
 
Neo Fender said:
All of my FR guitars have a FR locking nut.  Just thought my method (not really mine) would eliminate winding strings around the posts

If you have a locking nut, it doesn't matter if you wrap the tuner posts 4 times with string. It's out of the equation once the nut is locked down. You could actually cut all that string north of the nut off altogether and remove the tuners if you wanted to. Not very practical, I'm just saying the locking nut eliminates the headstock.

The thing to do is eliminate the locking nut in favor of locking tuners and use an LSR nut or a well-cut Graphtech part, but you're past that. I've done that and it works well. You don't even need the locking bridge any more, if anyone ever did.

It's why I always use Wilkinsons when given a choice. No goofing around. If you need the added range a FR can provide, it's a simple matter of using a recessed Wilkie and routing out the cavity for the sustain block an 1/8" or so. Makes setup and life in general a whole lot easier in the long run.
 
Cagey said:
The thing to do is eliminate the locking nut in favor of locking tuners and use an LSR nut or a well-cut Graphtech part, but you're past that. I've done that and it works well. You don't even need the locking bridge any more, if anyone ever did

The point of the locking bridge is to prevent the ball-end from moving in the block when deep diving, though I do have a Strat with locking tuners and LSR that is super stable under heavy trem use, at least as heavy as a 6-screws will allow.

That said, FR has resumed selling the original bridge without fine tuners, which is perfect to get the FR feel and range when using a non locking but. Looks much better than the Willy IMHO, has the locking saddles AND locking string end, without the complicated fine tuners that rob some of the sustain. Tempted to retrofit one on that Strat, but it sounds so good with the 6-screws I'm afraid to mess with it.
 
I have done this and makes no difference.

With a Floyd a prefer cutting the ends and installing in the Floyd.  The extra wound material give some exrta bite in my mind.  More for the bridge to hold on to. 

It's may be all in my head by I have not had a string slip yet
 
With a locking nut, it makes no difference.  You could snip the string at the headstock side of the nut and it will behave the same.  The only reason for locking tuners would be the convenience of less winding.

Now with locking tuners the norm, I love the idea of those paired with a Floyd (without the fine tuners) and a graphite nut.  It gives you all the benefit of double locking without the pain-in-the-rear locking nut.  :party07:
 
Jake said:
Now with locking tuners the norm, I love the idea of those paired with a Floyd (without the fine tuners) and a graphite nut.  It gives you all the benefit of double locking without the pain-in-the-rear locking nut.  :party07:

My preferred method.  I also like the mass of the full sized fine tuner version of the Floyd, and I find the fine tuners convenient.
 
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