GFS Xavier Tele Roller Bridge

R

Ribeye

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Does anyone have experience with this bridge?  I'm especially curious about feedback regarding the positive neck angle.  Much thanks!
http://www.guitarfetish.com/Xaviere-Tele-Roller-Bridge-for-Vibrato-System-Nickel-Finish_p_4419.html
 
I put a non-Tele version of one on this quasi-L5S...

IMG_2930_Sm.JP

It works well, but it is taller than many bridges so you do need the slightly angled pocket. The L5S body was originally drilled for a TOM bridge/tailpiece, so the neck pocket was angled already.

Also, that bridge doesn't have saddle height adjustments, but you can shim them the same way you do a Floyd Rose bridge if you want to match your neck radius properly. I think it comes as a 12" radius, and if you're using a Warmoth 10"-16" compound radius neck, you need about an 18" radius at the bridge.
 
Can you tell us where shims for the individual saddles can be obtained?  I am needing to setup for a 7.25" fretboard.  Thanks for your help.
 
These will work, after some modification...

BP-2214-001.jpg

They're designed for Floyd Rose bridges and they're slightly too wide. But, they're thin so you can narrow them up with a some tin bender's shears like these...

offsetsnips.jpg

If you don't feel like you'll use shears again, a rotary grinder might work out for you. Hold the shims with some pliers, as they'll get hotter than hell and you won't be able to hold them by hand. 
 
Cagey said:
These will work, after some modification...

BP-2214-001.jpg

They're designed for Floyd Rose bridges and they're slightly too wide. But, they're thin so you can narrow them up with a some tin bender's shears like these...

offsetsnips.jpg

If you don't feel like you'll use shears again, a rotary grinder might work out for you. Hold the shims with some pliers, as they'll get hotter than hell and you won't be able to hold them by hand.


Thanks so much.  Very helpful.
 
Cagey said:
These will work, after some modification...

BP-2214-001.jpg

They're designed for Floyd Rose bridges and they're slightly too wide. But, they're thin so you can narrow them up with a some tin bender's shears like these...

offsetsnips.jpg

If you don't feel like you'll use shears again, a rotary grinder might work out for you. Hold the shims with some pliers, as they'll get hotter than hell and you won't be able to hold them by hand.


Thanks so much.  I followed your advice and ordered the shims from Guitar Parts Resource.  Unfortunately, they have been completely unresponsive to my inquiries regarding my order, for which they have been paid.  I have filed a dispute with PayPal. 

****Just a warning to any other members considering ordering from this vendor****
 
Unfortunately, they're not a very responsive company. No contact info to speak of. You don't get a verification of your order. You don't get a shipping notification. It's like you make a payment and just hope. I've waited as long as 10 days for things from them sometimes, especially stuff that's just coming in the mail rather than UPS.

On the plus side, they've never burned me, and I've ordered lotsa stuff from them.

With the weather we've been having, it wouldn't surprise me that things aren't moving around the country quite as fast as they could. I've been getting notices from UPS apologizing for poor performance and I'm not even expecting anything.
 
Cagey said:
Unfortunately, they're not a very responsive company. No contact info to speak of. You don't get a verification of your order. You don't get a shipping notification. It's like you make a payment and just hope. I've waited as long as 10 days for things from them sometimes, especially stuff that's just coming in the mail rather than UPS.

On the plus side, they've never burned me, and I've ordered lotsa stuff from them.

With the weather we've been having, it wouldn't surprise me that things aren't moving around the country quite as fast as they could. I've been getting notices from UPS apologizing for poor performance and I'm not even expecting anything.

*****UPDATE*****

Well my claim with PayPal got a quick response from Guitar Parts.  They were not happy, but did send a shipping notice with tracking info.  I suggested the whole episode could have been avoided if they simply would provide an order confirmation.  I expect I will do business with them again as they have a unique selection of parts.
 
Yeah, that's pretty much it. But, if you look at the site, you can tell they're seriously "behind the times" in website design and they don't take too much advantage of some of the automation that UPS and others provide these days. Not comfortable with technology, is the way it looks. Odd for an online site, but whaddaya gonna do?

It's like you say, though. They have some usual stuff so I keep doing business there.
 
Cagey said:
Yeah, that's pretty much it. But, if you look at the site, you can tell they're seriously "behind the times" in website design and they don't take too much advantage of some of the automation that UPS and others provide these days. Not comfortable with technology, is the way it looks. Odd for an online site, but whaddaya gonna do?

It's like you say, though. They have some usual stuff so I keep doing business there.

*****UPDATE 2*****

PayPal provided me shipping advice including a USPS tracking number supplied by Guitar Parts Resource to PayPal as a result of their investigation into this transaction.  Great, I thought, until I tried tracking the shipment.  Turns out the tracking number was for a shipment delivered to Italy in February 2013.  So I will remain unconvinced about Guitar Parts as a reputable vendor until I actually receive my order.  I suspect Guitar Parts has a much larger problem than being "not comfortable with technology".  I see major attitude on display as a result of being tagged for sloppy business practices.
 
Cagey said:
Damn. Well, you can also get those shims here, here or here but I don't have any experience with any of those vendors.

Cagey, thank you again for your help.  You are an encyclopedia of guitar tips.  I will follow up with one of these outfits.
 
Just purchased one of these kits:

http://www.guitarfetish.com/Xtrem-Top-Mounte-Vibrato-Roller-Bridge-Combo-Chrome-Finish-_p_4417.html

Naturally, the bridge plate is for a conventional Tele pickup setup. For the Squier VM Custom II, I will need to cut the bridge plate down.

The factory hardtail bridge:

whammyphoto8_xga-0.jpg


New bridge plate which needs to be cut down.  I marked the exact location for the old bridge string locations with the hash marks on the tape:

whammyphoto7_xga-0.jpg


New bridge plate mounted and holes for tremolo unit:

whammyphoto2_xga-0.jpg


Tremolo unit mounted:

whammyphoto3_xga-0.jpg


whammyphoto4_xga-0.jpg



The Squier VM Custom II has a 7.25 inch fretboard radius and the Xtreme roller bridge is set up for a 12 inch radius.  I will add Floyd Rose saddle shims to the new roller bridge to achieve the correct radius.

String spacing is perfect.

I needed to shim the neck to allow for the higher roller bridge.  One business card folded in half was sufficient to achieve the correct action height.  As a result, the thumbwheels normally used with this bridge are not needed.

Remaining steps:  Saddle shims for the correct fretboard radius and intonation, which was almost bang on with the new installation.  By the way, the old strings were too short for this unit.

The Xtreme Tremolo kit comes with two different strength springs, presumably to allow for more or less tension on the arm.  I installed the lighter spring and will likely change this out for the heavier spring.

Just about done, and I believe this unit is excellent quality and value, given you have a tremolo and bridge which is completely roller based.

Jacob
 
That's sharp!

What did you use to cut that bridge plate? Looks really clean.

Is it staying in tune for you?
 
Cagey said:
That's sharp!

What did you use to cut that bridge plate? Looks really clean.

Is it staying in tune for you?

To cut the bridge plate I used an ordinary hand hack saw.  It took about 15 minutes.  Hand filing smoothed the edges and corners.

The guitar doesn't always return to correct pitch after using the tremolo.  I will install the stronger spring which was supplied with the kit.
 
No kidding! A hacksaw?!?! Geez. Usually when I use a hacksaw, the results look like some sort of desperation job from a post-apocalyptic world where real tools are few and far between.

I'm impressed.

As for your tuning issue... I'm pretty sure a tighter spring isn't going to help. If you don't have locking tuners and a well-done TUSQ nut, you need those things first. Then, you may want to disassemble that tailpiece to the point where you can get some lithium assembly lube in the bushings. That stuff is super-slick and will all but eliminate any friction in those joints. You can get assembly lube at any well-stocked automotive parts store. It's used by engine rebuilders on wear parts so the thing doesn't chew itself up on first start before the oil pressure gets up.
 
Cagey said:
No kidding! A hacksaw?!?! Geez. Usually when I use a hacksaw, the results look like some sort of desperation job from a post-apocalyptic world where real tools are few and far between.

I'm impressed.

As for your tuning issue... I'm pretty sure a tighter spring isn't going to help. If you don't have locking tuners and a well-done TUSQ nut, you need those things first. Then, you may want to disassemble that tailpiece to the point where you can get some lithium assembly lube in the bushings. That stuff is super-slick and will all but eliminate any friction in those joints. You can get assembly lube at any well-stocked automotive parts store. It's used by engine rebuilders on wear parts so the thing doesn't chew itself up on first start before the oil pressure gets up.

Thank you good sir.  You are right.  The stiffer spring did not help.  All it did was make the whammy handle stick out further.  I will get locking tuners, change the nut and I will try the lube.  Also, the head-stock has two string trees which I will lube as well.  I will update this thread with the results.

Thanks again.
 
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