Flake Finish Jazzmaster

Rick

Epic Member
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6,315
Starting my build thread ...
I had a previous post about what pickups to use, and after some advice from DiMarzio I'm going with two vintage DP 240's in the neck and middle positions, and a vintage dp241 in the bridge. This is similar to St Vincent's eb pick up configuration, though there is something slightly different with hers. No one's told me what the difference is so .... Anway, I like the DP 240 so two will be twice the fun.

Next I had to think about pots, and I'm going with DiMarzio's recommendation of a 500k volume and 250K tone with a .022uf cap and maybe 180pf on the volume pot for treble at low volumes.

Next, had to think about the switch. This was easy ... Freeway 10 way blade, with a miniswitch, so it'll be, N, M + N, M, B + M, B, B +M series, B+M+N para, B + N series, B + N para, B + N series, and the miniswitch will split the minihumbuckers globally. The mini switch will go in the pickguard pickup hole.

Next .... hardtail bridge, leaning towards callaham american standard, or hipshot hardtail bridge? I know Warmoth sells the hipshot, but I'm a big fan of the brass saddles ... maybe I'll pick the saddles with with bigsby cut, sort of like the gotoh's ... need to do some more research.

Edit: Going with both 500k pots all around. If too shrill then will swap done the tone to 250k.
 
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Starting my build thread ...
I had a previous post about what pickups to use, and after some advice from DiMarzio I'm going with two vintage DP 240's in the neck and middle positions, and a vintage dp241 in the bridge. This is similar to St Vincent's eb pick up configuration, though there is something slightly different with hers. No one's told me what the difference is so .... Anway, I like the DP 240 so two will be twice the fun.

Next I had to think about pots, and I'm going with DiMarzio's recommendation of a 500k volume and 250K tone with a .022uf cap and maybe 180pf on the volume pot for treble at low volumes.

Next, had to think about the switch. This was easy ... Freeway 10 way blade, with a miniswitch, so it'll be, N, M + N, M, B + M, B, B +M series, B+M+N para, B + N series, B + N para, B + N series, and the miniswitch will split the minihumbuckers globally. The mini switch will go in the pickguard pickup hole.

Next .... hardtail bridge, leaning towards callaham american standard, or hipshot hardtail bridge? I know Warmoth sells the hipshot, but I'm a big fan of the brass saddles ... maybe I'll pick the saddles with with bigsby cut, sort of like the gotoh's ... need to do some more research.
You originally wanted treble clarity. I would do at least 500k Vol AND tone with a .047 cap. Or even 1 megs with a .022. Just me though as it is a personal thing. Dig the flake though!
 
Its easy to change pots, but either 250k tone + 500k volume, or 2x 500k controls should be workable. Often I use 500k controls and later add a parallel resistor of 510k or 1M across the bridge pickup if it's needed.
 
Mmmh, the hive mind seems to like 500K pots, and Mr. DiMarzio did say that 500k all around would work, too (sorry no mention by the man about 1 Meg pots, and he was sticky about the .022 cap) but his first recommendation was a 250K tone. (Why do you guys complicate things? ;) ).

Since Mr. DiMarizio said 500k all around "should be good" and you guys like the bigger pots, that's what we'll do. Swapping a pot is in my skill set and if it doesn't work I'll blame spud. (Spud, just kidding!)
 
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No pics yet of the Flake body. I just saw all those flake bodies a while ago and got inspired. Mayfly got one and it looked terrific.

Haven't picked a color though leaning towards inferno or turquoise, either with a white pearl pickguard and pearloid binding. Need to pick my bodywood, for me, color generally, gets picked last.

After everything is sorted out, and have the brass in pocket, I go on a buying binge.
 
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Bridge picked
While the hipshot bridge is awesome, over the years I've come to favor the triple brass saddle bridges, so it's going to be the Callaham American Standard Flat mount bridge. It'll fit warmoth's american standard rout. It's off by like 1/1000 of an inch, which isn't much, and could be due to rounding.

Next is what body wood to pick. Need to call Mr. Warmoth to find out what the upcharge is for extra light pieces of alder or poplar. (Why those woods? Just 'cause I like the sound of the guitars I have played with those woods, plus the trees are from the USA (sorry swamp ash we just couldn't get on the same page, and maple, i use you for neck meat)). Or maybe, I do a chambered body, or maybe ... a chambered body from an extra light piece ... LOL. Probably, I'll go with whatever's cheapest, but we'll see.
 
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Mmmh, the hive mind seems to like 500K pots, and Mr. DiMarzio did say that 500k all around would work, too (sorry no mention by the man about 1 Meg pots, and he was sticky about the .022 cap) but his first recommendation was a 250K tone. (Why do you guys complicate things? ;) ).

Since Mr. DiMarizio said 500k all around "should be good" and you guys like the bigger pots, that's what we'll do. Swapping a pot is in my skill set and if it doesn't work I'll blame spud. (Spud, just kidding!)
You can blame me.
 
Well, after a call to the mothership, I'm going with an extra light alder body.

Next ... tuners! Probably open back locking hipshots with the ump plate, but which ones? Staggered? Or regular with a string tree? If a string tree, do I go with the reverend triple tree? Ah ... so many decisions. Also, do I change the tuning buttons to industrial or a pearloid hex?
 
OK! Staggered tuners it is! Actually, every guitar I've built with the staggered hipshots turn out well.

I just realized that if I get an extra light body, I'll need to do chambering if I want an f-hole. Gotta stew on that.
 
Just make sure you get the LW option. I’ve seen cambered bodies often heavier than solid LW options. Personally I thin the W uses heavier blanks for chambered choices.
 
Stewed enough ... After looking at bunches of flake guitars, they look cooler (to me) with an expanse sans f-hole.

Next, the neck, and this one is easy ... first the nut .... just an ordinary tusq nut. I have to think about the frets, they will be steel, but what size .... mmmh?
 
Fret size:SS6150
Fret Board: Rosewood
Now I have to figure out if I want dots, blocks or nothing.
Next will be tilt back, or flat headstock, head stock shape, then neck wood, width, profile, tuners, back plate, screws, paint (leaning towards inferno flake gloss the whole thing, or vintage tinted back in satin, with an inferno flake headstock), pickguard, binding, button, knobs and case.

Man, who knew so much thought went into making a guitar.

I'm thinking about extra light poplar if there is such a thing, instead of alder.
 
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No tilt, blocks on maple. I am unsure of the poplar idea? Guessing it may dent easily and not be super resonant? However, I have never personally owned or even played a poplar body as far as I know.
 
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If it dents, it dents ... to me that's character, plus I'm probably going to do a binding, so that means the top will be maple or alder, which are pretty hard. I played a poplar body, I think it was called a Nighthawk. Sounded nice to me. May have been just the piece of wood.
 
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I did not realise you were planning a laminate top with a metal flake finish. In that case a chambered body is also possible.

The idea of chambered Poplar seems interesting, but I have no experience. Perhaps Warmoth could select a suitable piece of Poplar with good strength. The light weight alder seems like a safer choice overall.
 
Just curious... for informational purposes, why is poplar not safe? Other than its green hue, what’s not to like? It’s plentiful, cheap, I’ve played poplar guitars that sounded good. I’ll probably not chamber it, and just go with a light piece. Plus, it’ll be different from all the alder or mahogany git’s out there.
 
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