First Warmoth MUSTANG build. Please review my cart.

[JerseyTrash]

Hi guys,

I'm about to pull the trigger on this, but just wanted to get your two cents on this build.

My main priority was LIGHT WEIGHT, yet durable/rugged (so no basswood). A real workhorse live performance guitar.

I was able to speak to Justin @ Warmoth who told me they could do a custom (and unlisted) TOM/STP w/ angled neck pocket option on the body which I was going to go with.

I'm getting a short scale control switch from switchcraft that I intend to install in the tone knob area.

Oh, and I'm gonna get some GFS pickups.

Can you please let me know if I'm missing anything else? Or if I have the right sizes for what need?

Thanks again! Greatly appreciate all the input!

 

[Verne Bunsen]

I'm looking forward to seeing this, especially that body! What kind of finish over that Rosewood? Mustang's are a fun build. You'll be very happy for the angled neck pocket with that TOM. I did a Mustang recently (the LPB one in my sig) with the trem and TOM with a flat neck pocket and I had to use a shim that looked about like a doorstop to get the geometry right.

A couple of things did jump out at me on your shopping list:

When you say you're going to get a "short scale control switch" to install on the control plate, do you mean a short frame toggle switch or a mini-switch or something else? Will it be for pickup selection or will you be using the standard Mustang pickguard controls for that? (I didn't see the ON/ON/ON slider switches in your cart, so I'm figuring the pickguard is probably to be cut without those slots and the switch will be for pickup selection, but it's an assumption...If not, you'll need those switches!) Installing a Switchcraft toggle will require you to enlarge the hole in the control plate. A mini-switch will probably require a couple of washers as the hole will be a little large for that.

The pot that you have selected is a mini-pot typically used in Jazzmaster and Jaguar rhythm circuits and has a much smaller mounting bushing than the hole in the control plate and a much smaller shaft than the hole in the knob. Unless there's something I'm missing, you'll want a full-size pot.

What kind of pickups are you looking at from GFS? A 1Meg volume pot is probably going to be pretty bright with a Mustang style single coil. Nothing wrong with that, just be aware of it. I think they typically have 250ks. The build I did had a humbucker in the bridge and a Mustang pickup in the neck and I used 500k pots, I liked how the neck single coil sounded with them. I would heartily encourage you to stick with the linear taper for your volume control as I personally prefer their performance in that capacity over that of audio/log tapers, but you'll get different opinions from others. Like the resistance value of the pot, it's a matter of personal preference and how you intend to use it.

The Mustang body is thinner than than most, and as such a standard neck screw (#8 x 1-3/4") will go right through the neck and into the fretboard. If you let it. I went to Lowes and got a box of nickle plated #8 x 1-1/2" screws that worked perfectly.

Hope some of that helps you out, I'm looking forward to seeing it! Here is the link to my Mustang build, you may find some helpful stuff in there.

http://unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=25643.0

 

[Fat Pete]

I think Verne's covered all the main points that occurred to me. The neck screw issue is particularly worth heeding with the angled pocket.

Personally I'm not quite sure about the TOM/stop without a bridge plate - from an aesthetic point of view. But if it works for you, it's cool - and certainly custom.

You don't see many (any?) Mustangs with exotic wood tops and the roasted maple/ebony combo for the neck is a great choice. A lot of folks here would suggest stainless steel frets.

Otherwise, go for it. You'll be the only kid on the block with anything like it.

 

[line6man]

Looks like you added two different colored screws to the cart.  I would fix that.

Apparently you only want one pot and knob, for the build? IMHO, 1M will probably have a terrible taper, but you can always lower the resistance, later on. That comes down to taste.

Where are your tuners? String trees? Straplocks? Neckplate?

 

[JerseyTrash]

Thanks for all of the replies. All excellent observations!

Hey Verne, where did you get the Mustang sticker from your build? Looks awesome!

The TOM/STP lockup would look something like this: http://shop.fender.com/en-US/electric-guitars/mustang/american-special-mustang/0114200300.html

Also, I just *really* like the feel of an angled neck pocket, Gibson-style. I tend to play with my guitar swung pretty low, so the closer to a cello the instrument plays, the better  :icon_smile:

Verne, you're right about the pots. I was thinking of getting GFS Lil' Killers (15k in bridge and 10k in the neck, both angled), which I think are modeled after Super Rails (which are technically humbuckers). I see you used something similar for your build. I think the Maple neck + ebony fretboard and swamp ash body, 250k should be good enough for this. Does going up to 500k mean it is more susceptible to noise...?

You're also right that I intend to have a control switch like the attached. I know I'll have to open up that tone knob hole (hopefully a local luthier has the appropriate tools). I was told to get the correct control switch from here: http://www.stewmac.com/Pickups_and_Electronics/Components_and_Parts/Switches/Switchcraft_Toggle_Switches.html

I find the switches in a slightly cumbersome spot, as its right in the strumming area.

The black screws would be for the pick guard (which is black) and the chrome ones would be for the control plate. Although maybe I should just stick with chrome...?

Do you think the stainless steel frets are really worth it?

Anything else I'm missing?

 

[JerseyTrash]

Also, do I need String retainers?

 

[Verne Bunsen]

Hey Verne, where did you get the Mustang sticker from your build? Looks awesome!

PM sent.

The TOM/STP lockup would look something like this:

Boy, there is just nothing wrong with that! I'm secretly planning another Mustang, probably next year. I had been figuring on converting the trem to a hardtail as I did with the other, but this is something I'll have to consider....

Verne, you're right about the pots. I was thinking of getting GFS Lil' Killers (15k in bridge and 10k in the neck, both angled), which I think are modeled after Super Rails (which are technically humbuckers). I see you used something similar for your build. I think the Maple neck + ebony fretboard and swamp ash body, 250k should be good enough for this. Does going up to 500k mean it is more susceptible to noise...?

The pot value isn't really a factor in how noisy a guitar is, at least not a significant one. Basically, the lower the resistance value of the pot, the more high frequencies will bleed off to ground. Even when the volume is all the way up. So 250k pots will attenuate a good deal of the top end of your signal while 1Meg pots are very near to bypassing the controls entirely. Hence the "rule of thumb" where bright single coils get 250k pots to reduce ice pick frequencies and warm humbuckers get 500k pots to keep them from getting muddy. But rules of thumbs are made to be broken and it's all about what you're after. I ran one of my Teles with 1Meg pots for years. Talk about exploding heads, Albert Collins woulda been proud. My first inclination was to say that I'd lean toward 500k pots for those GFS  Lil' Killers, but a quick search yields lots of accounts of people loving them with 250ks. So there's that. At the very least, swapping pots out is easy and inexpensive.

You're also right that I intend to have a control switch like the attached. I know I'll have to open up that tone knob hole (hopefully a local luthier has the appropriate tools).

For what it's worth, if you have a hand drill and a stepped/Uni-Bit, this is not a difficult modification. I had to open up both of the holes on that Mustang plate for the larger USA spec pots and I've had to do it on many many Tele control plates. Tape off the front of the plate with masking tape and drill from the front of the plate, nice and slow. A small ridge of metal will probably build up on the back of the plate (which is why you drill from the front), clean that up with a file and you're good to go.

Also, do I need String retainers?

If you're questioning the string tree, it's worth trying it without first. If you get your nut right, and especially if you get staggered height tuners, then you may very well not need one at all. If you are getting sympathetic vibrations at the headstock or can't get your high strings to ring true, you can always zip one in down the line.

 

[Fat Pete]

The TOM/STP lockup would look something like this:

Boy, there is just nothing wrong with that!...

Indeed there isn't - looks great. I stand corrected!

 

[Logrinn]

You're also right that I intend to have a control switch like the attached. I know I'll have to open up that tone knob hole (hopefully a local luthier has the appropriate tools).

For what it's worth, if you have a hand drill and a stepped/Uni-Bit, this is not a difficult modification. I had to open up both of the holes on that Mustang plate for the larger USA spec pots and I've had to do it on many many Tele control plates. Tape off the front of the plate with masking tape and drill from the front of the plate, nice and slow. A small ridge of metal will probably build up on the back of the plate (which is why you drill from the front), clean that up with a file and you're good to go.

You might also check out this guy and his assortment of control- and bridge plates. Especially 6B, 6C and 6D.

Also, do I need String retainers?

If you're questioning the string tree, it's worth trying it without first. If you get your nut right, and especially if you get staggered height tuners, then you may very well not need one at all. If you are getting sympathetic vibrations at the headstock or can't get your high strings to ring true, you can always zip one in down the line.

I don't think you will have any problem or any need for a string tree if you're using staggered tuners. This is what my Mustang neck on my Strat looks like (and it sounds great):

 

[JerseyTrash]

Oh wow, thanks again Logrinn! I think that custom control plate 6D is exactly what I'm looking for! Great find!

 

[Logrinn]

You're welcome.

And your question about frets ...
I think many here, me included, will tell you to get stainless steel ones.
I'm extremely happy with my neck that I got with SS6105 frets. Feels very luxurious.
And of course it's not a bad thing that the neck will probably never need to have a refretting done.  :icon_thumright:

 

[musicispeace]

Looks to be a very cool build and guitar. I agree about trying to focus on a well cut and filed nut as none of my strat-casters have or need string trees. If you end up needing one then fair enough but you might have a look at the recent thread on a discussion of string trees in General Discussion.

Ultimately I think stainless steel frets are worth it. I have a couple guitars with them and one with regular frets. Given that I have 3 to work with and am not playing in a pub multiple nights a week it is unlikely I will end up in re-fret territory on my 6105 nickel frets. But the stainless are often utilized by people on this forum with happy outcomes.

Roasted maple with ebony on the front should be a real pleasure and add to a nice articulation of the notes. I have one maple neck with ebony and am very happy as almost entirely a blues player.

 

[JerseyTrash]

Alright. I put the order in.

A huge THANK YOU to all of you who took a look at the specs and gave me great recommendations!

I decided to go with the SS frets and I bought the control plate from FACTION guitars (a bit pricier, but saves me a little bit of headache with expanding the hole).

Once it's all assembled, I'll be sure to post up some pics.
You guys rock.

 

[line6man]

The black screws would be for the pick guard (which is black) and the chrome ones would be for the control plate. Although maybe I should just stick with chrome...?

Mixing screw colors tends to look tacky. Then again, it comes down to taste.

Do you think the stainless steel frets are really worth it?

Best $25 (or whatever they charge) that you will EVER spend.

Also, do I need String retainers?

You will have to assemble the guitar and play it, to figure that out.

 

[JerseyTrash]

It finally came! On to assembly (I'll post that in the "in-progress" section). Just sharing....

 

[Logrinn]

That looks absolutely fantastic!
Wow!

Drool ccasion14:

 

[JerseyTrash]

Thanks! Looks pretty awesome so far. The only small thing I kind of wish I could do was stain the back black to match the ebony fretboard + pick guard (right now its natural Swamp Ash), while retaining the grain. Unfortunately that wasn't an option on the Warmoth website. And its sealed with the satin finish, so I don't even know its an option at this point (plus, do I trust myself to tape off the laminated top perfectly?).

But I've been asking around, and most have convinced me to keep it as-is, as there is something always kind of awesome about having a natural finish.

 

[ByteFrenzy]

Looking forward to more pics, also a view of the back. From the pic you posted, the lighter colored back looks pretty cool, a bit like a binding. I'd probaly advise to leave it alone too.

 

[bagman67]

Well, now, that looks pretty dang awesome.

 

[Verne Bunsen]

Man, that looks nice! Looking forward to more pics!