First Warmoth build(s), first post and a tuner hole question!

[Cagey]

It doesn't matter. Tall frets can show up anywhere along the fretboard. Usually what I do is get out a Sharpie (or some sort of permanent marker) and mark them as I find them. Using the fret rocker, you want to check the far side, middle, and near side of each group of three frets. Mark where the high point is if there is one, and move on. Once you've done that, you get out the dreaded file(s) and lower the high points you've marked. GO SLOW! You can't put material back so if you over-grind a fret, you're screwed. It's repairable, but it's not any fun. So, keep the fret rocker close at hand and check frequently to be sure you don't go too far.

Once they're all level, you need to start polishing them back to get rid of the file marks. Start with something like a 400 grit paper, and work your way up until they're pretty. You won't remove much material doing that, so don't worry about it. You're just removing scratches.

Incidentally, you need to mask the fretboard off, or you'll be sorry. You're going to be grinding/sanding/polishing against the grain of the 'board, and it'll show up big-time if the 'board isn't protected. It's a pain in the shorts, but trust me - you wanna do it.

 

[Cagey]

I should also mention that it's critical for the neck to be straight before you start checking fret heights. A good quality straightedge and some feeler gauges are some must-have tools. Use those to adjust your truss rod until the neck is as straight as you can get it, otherwise you're liable to grind your frets into oblivion.

 

[stratamania]

And I should add, don't do your first fret job on an expensive neck, get some old or cheap thing to practice on.

 

[PhilAngus]

And I should add, don't do your first fret job on an expensive neck, get some old or cheap thing to practice on.

Or a mate's!! :icon_biggrin: :icon_biggrin: :icon_biggrin:

Don't worry guys, I've done lots of research on this, there are some great Crimson Guitar podcasts on Youtube demonstrating all sorts. The later ones are better than the earlier ones. I also purchased their fret levelling kit which includes the slotted straight edge and levelling bar.

I believe you need to be very careful not to assume a fret is high though when using the rocker. For example, my new neck, starting from the nut. According to the fret rocker, frets 1, 2 & 3 are level. 2, 3 and 4 gives a very slight rock. Does that mean that fret 2 is slightly low, or fret three is slightly high? For the first test with the rocker across frets 1, 2 & 3, it could be either of these as fret 2 would be below 1 & 3 giving no rock and fret 3 would be higher. Thus, at this stage we don't know which of these frets is at the level of the majority of the rest. So, you make an adjustment to what you think at the nut end, and suddenly you are pushing the height you have made all the way up the neck? I realise we are talking minute levels of adjustment, but I still don't really understand why you would not want to LIGHTLY pass the fret levelling file all the way up the neck to be certain. After all, which ever frets are proud are going to stand out as you start filing. I may just be worrying about this unduly, but it has got me thinking. Do you see where I am coming from?

I think what I may do is on the Tele I have already finished (and does want some minor adjustment here and there), is to use the fret leveller whilst it is strung up, and see if there is minor buzzing behind those that are proud according to the leveller. :sign13:

 

[stratamania]

I do see where you are coming from. But if fret 2 in your example is low or 3 is high, here is how to determine that look at it from the side when the rocker is over 1, 2 and 3 and check for light showing through. Then move it and do the same, checking light as well as rocks should help to identify what's happening.

Personally if you mark the top of the frets with marker and give more attention to the ones identified as high and they may not be all the way across the most all the others may need is just enough to remove the marker pen. Let the tools do the work and a light touch is best.

There is a feel thing to this in addition to science I believe. Even if you bought a Plek machine you still need to know what you are doing to get the best out of one.

Not sure how you will level with the strings on, perhaps it's terminology ?

There is a neck jig you can buy to get the neck level under string tension, then you remove the strings and put the tension back with the jig so you can work on the frets, but for all intents and purposes straight is straight however you get there. YMMV, caveat emptor and all that.

Edit, the neck jig is called the Erlewine neck jig.

 

[PhilAngus]

I didn't mean level with the strings on, I meant use the rocker with the strings on.  :icon_thumright:

 

[Cagey]

Here again, a high-quality straightedge and some feeler gauges are invaluable. The fret rocker only measure a short distance, while the the machinists rule and a feeler gauge can show you some oddballs along the length of the neck. GMI sells a nice part out of Greece at a good price - $16, vs. $53 from Stewmac and it's a slightly more accurate tool (.0004" over 18" vs. .001).

 

[stratamania]

I didn't mean level with the strings on, I meant use the rocker with the strings on.  :icon_thumright:

If you try to get the neck straight and check for rocks with the strings on, then when you take them off there will no longer be tension on the neck from the string pull, and it won't be straight. If you were then to level the frets it wouldn't be a good idea.

Not sure where you are going with that.

 

[Cagey]

There's a slight difference in how the neck behaves between being under string tension and under truss rod tension, but I'm not sure it's worth worrying about. I've done it both ways, and had good results either way. I have one of those Erlewine neck jigs and I use it more for stressing some necks into shape than anything else. I seem to have run into a spate of necks that won't relieve lately, and the jig lets me crank the hell out of the things.

 

[PhilAngus]

I didn't mean level with the strings on, I meant use the rocker with the strings on.  :icon_thumright:

If you try to get the neck straight and check for rocks with the strings on, then when you take them off there will no longer be tension on the neck from the string pull, and it won't be straight. If you were then to level the frets it wouldn't be a good idea.

Not sure where you are going with that.

What I am saying is this:

With strings on, neck is straight, there is a very small amount of buzzing here and there. I use the rocker to determine where the rocks are, then see if the string buzz corresponds to the same suspect fret. For example, if the rocker tells me fret 12 is high, I play a string on the 11th fret and see if it buzzes. If it does I note it down. It may also be that it only buzzes on part of the fret, if so, again I note it down. When I am done with this, I take the strings off and straighten the neck with truss rod adjustment using my neck levelling tool. I then repeat my tests with the rocker and see if everything agrees with the previous test.

All in all, I guess what I am really saying here is there is no point in doing anything at all if there is no fret buzz. If there is, I believe the best method is to carry out the first fully strung test first. This is if all we are doing is selecting individual frets here and there for adjustment. If the exercise is to level a worn neck and frets, then best to de-string, mask and work on the entire fret board.

 

[stratamania]

Ok, now I see where you are coming from and that does indeed make sense.

 

[Great Ape]

Stunning Tele...simply GORGEOUS!

 

[Vallhagen]

Thanx Great Ape

I had this tele out for its first gig last saturday, and it röcked pretty fantastic.

Cheers

 

[BigSteve22]

That is one beautiful Tele! And your son's Diamondback is equally impressive.

I spent the last hour or so reading this thread, and I learned a lot about setting up a neck. I did some of the neck work on my Strat, but sent it out for that final nut adjustment.

Glad you like the Hipsot tuners. I have several sets, and love them all. The vintage sets use 8.5mm holes and were the perfect fit for my other favorite solid body: a '64 Hagstrom HII. Probably the nicest feeling neck I've ever played, (and I've owned it for the last 40 years), but the tuners weren't much good after 50 years. Hipshots fixed that, and with the UMPs, I didn't have to re-drill the headstock! I live in New York state, but I also order Hipshot tuners and Bridges from Spotech. They have cheaper prices and MUCH cheaper shipping, as you certainly found out!

Again, beautiful work. Both you and your son should be very proud.

 

[Vallhagen]

Thank you Big Steve!

It is really the first time i owe some locking tuners, and i am really happy with these Hipshots. The staggering, the UMP, and of course the locking function are all making the life a little easier. Very good stuff!

Cheers