First build - I'm ordering parts, but I need to make sure I'm not missing any

[elips]

Hey everyone, apologies for the long post.  I'm hoping this is the best place for some feedback and suggestions on hardware compatibility and what to order in general.  I'm going to post the specs of my neck and body and then list what I currently have in my cart accompanied by a few questions. I want to make sure I get everything I need in one order to avoid additional shipping fees! I think I did my due diligence by following Warmoth's compatibility pages to the best of my ability, but I have no one to double check my decisions. I understand if I come off as uninformed and some questions may be stupid.  For that I apologize but I greatly appreciate if someone decides to read through and help out.  I'm going to attach pictures of my neck and body for reference.

I'll start with my neck:

Style: Stratocaster®
Construction: Modern Construction
Orientation: Right Handed
Neck Wood: Maple
Fingerboard Wood: Pau Ferro
Nut Width: 1-11/16"
Back Shape: Standard thin
Fret Size: SS6230 (Stainless)
Tuner Ream: Vintage Style (11/32")
Radius: 10-16" Compound
Scale: 25-1/2"
Fret #: 22
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
Pre-Cut Installed String Nut: GraphTech Black TUSQ XL - Standard Nut
Inlays: Cream Face Dots
Side Dots: White Side Dots
Finish: No Finish

Tuners:
https://www.warmoth.com/-P965.aspx

Neck plate and screws:
https://www.warmoth.com/-P832.aspx
https://www.warmoth.com/-P142.aspx

I figure most of what I'm missing is in the wiring and body hardware.  I didn't see anything else required for the neck.

Body specs:

Model: Stratocaster®
Orientation: Right handed
F-Holes: None
Scale: 25-1/2"
Wood: Alder
Rout: Top Rout
Pickup Rout: Strat®, Strat®, Strat®
Controls: None
Bridge: Vintage Strat® Flat Mount
Jack Rout: Strat® Top Jack Rout
Neck Pocket: Strat® Shape
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
Contours: / Tummy Cut / Forearm Contour
Battery Box: No Battery Box Rout

Bridge:
https://www.warmoth.com/-P580.aspx

My main question here is if this will fit properly.  I have a notch that came on my body that I can't quite understand from pictures what its purpose is - circled in one of the attached pictures.

Bridge Pickup:
https://www.warmoth.com/-P1089.aspx

Middle Pickup:
https://www.warmoth.com/-P1819.aspx

Neck Pickup:
https://www.warmoth.com/-P1820.aspx

I'm hoping these fit even though they don't exactly match the cut outs.  They were options in the custom build designer.

Switch and Screws:
https://www.warmoth.com/-P722.aspx
https://www.warmoth.com/-P148.aspx

Strap holders:
https://www.warmoth.com/-P79.aspx

Switch knob:
https://www.warmoth.com/-P390.aspx

Jack Cover:
https://www.warmoth.com/-P835.aspx

Volume Knobs:
https://www.warmoth.com/-P369.aspx x3

Pick Guard:

Shape - Stratocaster®
Color - .06" Black Solid Matte
Standard Bridge Cut
Mounting Holes - 11 Hole
Standard Countersink
Neck Pickup - Strat®
Middle Pickup - Strat®
Bridge Pickup - Strat®
Control Routing:
Volume
Tone
Tone 2
5 Way Switch

So I know I need some more equipment to make the wiring work such as a jack and pots and probably something else (wire?)  But I'm not sure which ones to choose.  I'm also guessing I've left some stuff out by forgetting or not understanding.  If anyone decides to help me out I'll promise to send you pictures of the completed product.  Not much of a reward, I know

 

[Logrinn]

The circled hole is for the ground wire between the bridge and the ground in the control cavity.

 

[elips]

The circled hole is for the ground wire between the bridge and the ground in the control cavity.

Thank you!

 

[rgand]

I'd go for 500K pots, my preference is Bourns. I've used CTS when Bourns aren't available. Some people like audio taper, I prefer linear taper. Some mix the two with audio taper on volume controls and linear on tone controlss.

The difference is that audio taper comes on faster at the beginning. In other words, a slight rotation of the audio taper pot produces more tone or volume than a linear one initially. They're both 0% when off and 100% when all the way on.

As to capacitors on your tone controls, people use .011, .022, .033 or .047. .047 produces a very dark tone and .011 just a little darker than full bright. I prefer .033 but that's just a preference and not 'better' or 'worse'. You can always change those easily if you find your choice is not to your liking.

 

[elips]

gotcha, so I need to add 3 pots and 3 capacitors.  Anything else?  How can I tell which input jack will fit the strat?

 

[rgand]

gotcha, so I need to add 3 pots and 3 capacitors.  Anything else?  How can I tell which input jack will fit the strat?

3 pots and 2 capacitors. You only need capacitors on the tone controls.

I think any good quality (Switchcraft or the like) 1/4" mono jack should work.

 

[BigSteve22]

I like the SD noiseless stack pickups, but I might suggest using a slightly hotter pup in the bridge position. I used STK-S4's in the neck and middle positions on my Strat, but went with an STK-S6 for the bridge. Just a little more power to make up for the reduced string movement in the bridge position. Not that the STK-S4 won't work, just that you may find the levels a little more balanced.

 

[Rick]

I recommend you buy a couple of books for your library.  Start with guitar player repair guide by Dan erliwine (sp) .

 

[stratamania]

I am not certain from the photos but is that by any chance a vintage Strat body rout?

If so your pickups may be too deep for the body rout.

https://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Bodies/Stratocaster/VintageStratocaster/

Standard Strat wiring only requires one capacitor regardless of the fact that there are two tone pots and for single coils normally 250K pots are used. You might find 500K too bright.

If you are ordering all of this type of thing from Warmoth the sales team there are geared up to advise on all of these choices if you are unsure. Of course, we are happy to help on here too.

 

[BigSteve22]

.....your pickups may be too deep for the body rout.

https://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Bodies/Stratocaster/VintageStratocaster/

That's a good point, I didn't even think about the vintage route possibility. (Although the vintage route on Warmoth's site shows a wiring pathway cut into the bridge pup route which I don't see here.) If it is a vintage route, here's how the math works out:

SD shows the full height of the STK-S4 as .850". (Just as a reference, their standard single coils measure .705", while their "Custom Flat" measures .656") Just measured my Strat, and the pups average about .200" proud of the pickguard surface, with the guard itself being .095" thick. So, that leaves about .555" of the pup actually sitting in the route, which is .625" deep, (on the "Vintage" body), leaving about .070" to spare. I don't set my pups anywhere near as close to the strings as some do, so that variable will depend on your personal preference. If you set yours closer to the strings, the clearance beneath will increase.

So, looks like they "may" work in the vintage route without reworking, depending on how high you set them. It'll be snug, but in none the less. In any event, reworking the depth of the route isn't really all that difficult.

Hope this helps.