FINISHED! Padouk canary 3p90 7/8 tele halfmoth

[nexrex]

Padouk mockup.
No time to plane \ laminate etc the cocobolo for now.
So one piece padouk mockup it is.

Wow, that padouk looks beautiful. Nice work there. It will look totally awesome  :icon_thumright:

 

[BigBeard]

(...)
Seriously, that's a fine instrument grade piece of wood right there!

Just from the local lumber shop. I initially wanted maple, but they didn't have a big enough board to make a one piece.
I picked padouk, but I  also had the choice between walnut (I have a nice blank for a les godfrey fretless copy, so nix that), mahogany (my bass is mahogany, so nix that), purpleheart (too hard), bubinga (too heavy), and yellowheart (too yellow). And padouk is relatively cheap.
I've glued cocobolo before, I used acetone which DEFINITELY clears up the surface oil without impacting long term looks. Gorilla glue expands well into the pores of the wood and is actually rated for oily woods, but makes a freakin mess and can expand a nice gap there if you don't clamp agressively (thank goodness cocobolo is a hard hard wood that can withstand monstrous clamping pressures without bruising.)
I also always wear an n95 mask when woodworking - I have pretty bad allergies and otherwise woodworking would be brutal for me.

Thanks again guys.

Wow consider yourself lucky to have those lumber choices at the local lumber yard.  All I can get at the local lumber yard is poplar oak mahogany and all the pine I can use!  Actually their mahogany is pretty nice, but I can only build so much out of it! 

I have used Gorilla Glue in the past, and yes it is super messy stuff.  Almost wet expandable foam messy!!!!  If you have ever gotten 'Great Stuff' on yourself you know what I'm talking about!  I built my kitchen cabinets here in my house and I used Gorilla Glue because it was the 'next great thing' and I found out how messy it is.  Although it is easy to clean up once it is all dry, you can just slice it off with a razor knife.

 

[Cagey]

I also always wear an n95 mask when woodworking - I have pretty bad allergies and otherwise woodworking would be brutal for me.

An N95 mask is not much more than a sneeze guard; it's not for filtering the air you breath, it's to protect others from what comes out of your nose and mouth, including your breath. You need to get a respirator if you really have allergies. I understand that all you're trying to do is protect from dust rather microbes, but the point is an N95 mask doesn't protect the wearer. There's no seal, so the bulk of what you inhale isn't coming through the mask, it's coming from around the edges (unless it has a valve on it, in which case some air comes in through that.

I learned this the hard way working with some zebrawood, which normally doesn't affect respiratory function, but did with me. I bought an N95 mask, paid extra for a "good" one, and still suffered. So, I bought a 3M respirator. That finally did the trick.

 

[mgaut051]

Uninformed, blanket statements founded only on discreditable inflammatory sources irritate me. I'm sorry. Great source! "Natural news". Don't quote the CDC or a nice study done by an independant third party. Don't put the information in context either. And please, just assume I don't know what I'm talking about.

A well fitted N95 will have no leak and will prevent 95% of NaCl solution particles 100 to 300 nm from crossing. They use NaCl as a standard, to allow for standardization and  comparison between companies. That's the DEFINITION of N95. 3M and the others making N95 have had to prove that ad nauseum for approval. http://www.informaworld.com/smpp/content~db=all~content=a713608512

It's also funny that 3M recommends fit testing for their respirators.

Funny also that the CDC CLEARLY recommends n95 for H1N1, http://www.cdc.gov/h1n1flu/guidelines_infection_control.htm#g
The goal being to protect the health-care provider from exposure, and in so doing to prevent passive transmission or infection. It's relatively cheap, and can be thrown out. Would a respirator work better? No, because the (Canadian) health care system would be bankrupt if we had to throw out a respirator every time a patient with a cough is seen in emerg or on the ward.

I'll grant you that sawdust can go down to less than 100nm. 3M specifically recommends N95 for sawdust. 

Will a respirator work: absolutely. Should you be telling everyone that N95 don't work? No. Any tool used improperly leads to risk of adverse events.

 

[Cagey]

I stand corrected. I believe your sources are more reliable than mine. But, it doesn't explain why I had trouble with the N95 and not the respirator. I suppose the N95 may not have been fitted properly, or the length of time/amount of exposure was different. On the plus side, I can use the respirator when painting, too.

 

[AutoBat]

Everyone in my department has to get fit tested for N95s, those that fail a fitment have to wear PAPRs (spaceman hoods) for the few cases that require that level of protection.
Naturally most of the guys with beards or goatees fail.

 

[DangerousR6]

Everyone in my department has to get fit tested for N95s, those that fail a fitment have to wear PAPRs (spaceman hoods) for the few cases that require that level of protection.
Naturally most of the guys with beards or goatees fail.

We have a supplied air suit(spaceman hood) that is used in our sandblast booth. And we have to have a pulmonary test every year....It's a pet peeve of our safety nazi.... :binkybaby:

 

[mgaut051]

Self explanatory.

HB rout looks misaligned - it isn't.

My Vernier says +/- 0.1 mm difference max. Which is not much really.

Do you really NEED it to be Padouk?

 

[erogenousjones17]

Self explanatory.

HB rout looks misaligned - it isn't.

My Vernier says +/- 0.1 mm difference max. Which is not much really.

Do you really NEED it to be Padouk?

Um...is it wrong that I'd really like to see it wired and strung up in the jig? Yes, I suppose it is. That padouk looks killer, by the way.  :icon_thumright:

 

[Nando Vallart]

WOW! Just let it be natural :sad:

 

[mgaut051]

Is there any other way?

Hope to rout maybe tonight. Control rout this w-e. And wiring. Theres going to be a pretty significant testing phase so that I can decide on wiring. Thinking n, n+rail, m, m+r, b, b+r, m+b, nmb, nmb w volume bypass for max power. We'll see.

 

[mgaut051]

This went rather well.

Weight is 5lbs 0oz now.

Next: control cavity and jack.

Martin

 

[chrisg]

Sure did go well - that's looking good  :icon_thumright:

 

[kboman]

Padauk looks so effing good... *swoons*
Great thread! :icon_thumright:

 

[DangerousR6]

This went rather well.

Weight is 5lbs 0oz now.

Next: control cavity and jack.

Martin

That's gonna be a puuuuuuuuurdy tele for sure... :icon_thumright:

 

[mgaut051]

Thanks guys.

Unfortunately I just showed my wife our little forum, and seeing my signature and the type of discussions that happen here, she said: "hey, it's just like fantasy baseball, no?".

Can't disagree. 'cept that we get to PLAY with our fantasies after. Oh yeah.

I love my wife. She cooks good. And has great D&D.

Martin

 

[mgaut051]

No flaming for front routing please.

I know I removed like 3sq inches of nice padouk. I'm sorry. I'll think about it next time.

For those of you in the health care profession: WHY CAN'T THEY MAKE CROSS TABLE DRILL PRESSES!

Wiggle is now my worst enemy.

 

[Cagey]

Here's a Drill Press w/ Cross Sliding Table & Power Feed...

$2,324 delivered. ~30% cheaper than a Les Paul Custom.

You're welcome <grin>

 

[DangerousR6]

Here's a Drill Press w/ Cross Sliding Table & Power Feed...

$2,324 delivered. ~30% cheaper than a Les Paul Custom.

You're welcome <grin>

It's even upgradable to cnc, for another 2G's... :icon_biggrin:

 

[Cagey]

It's even upgradable to cnc, for another 2G's... :icon_biggrin:

Yeah, but then your output loses that "handmade" cachet that's worth so much these days...

Besides, one of those "C"s stands for "Computer", and you know how those things are.

Those pesky computers make me so angry I could just pinch them!​