Final finish

bgranger

Junior Member
Messages
29
I have a Gecko that I have been finishing myself. This is my 1st build and I am very pleased with the results. I have about 20 coats of rub-on poly on the body and I like the results-all grain is filled, glassy and smooth. I just want to get out the final tiny specs out. I could actually live with it as no one would notice, except us very critical guitarists who examine every inch with a microscope. I tried using 0000 steel wool but that dulled it and left tiny lines, so a I added another coat of poly to smooth it out. Is the last step polishing or buffing (I don't have access to a buffer). Hopefully you can recommend some easily accessible products so I can start jamming!
 
I'm totally new to building as well....I havent even started my first project yet, so i'm sure many other experienced people on here can give you suggestions, but Stewart MacDonald has some products that would aide you in the buffing/polishing phase...if you have a drill, they have a polishing pad that attaches to one...

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supplies/Abrasives,_polishes,_buffers/Finesse_Polishing_Pad.html


Good luck!!
 
I now have stew-macs buffing arbor up and running, along with their pollishing compound, I must say it really works well

But before i got this , I used a drill motor buffer that I bought from the local auto parts place, I also used the autobody polish, which comes in diferent grits, I achieved good results doing guitars this way, although it is a lot easier to us an arbor buffer mounted to a bench and hold th guitar, than to hold a drill buffer and hold the guitar down too
 
Someone recommended Micro Mesh fine sanding papers. Anybody here use these? Or should I get a hand buffer?
 
On nitro, I've been using Turtle Wax white compound, on a thick cotton rag.  It will take 600 grit final finish leveling to mirror with the use of elbo grease alone.
 
CB - I know you can use automotive rubbing/polishing compounds on nitro lacquer finishes; they OK for poly finishes, too?
 
The issue is not safety with poly.  Its always the other way around.  However, the problem with poly is that it does not sand like or buff like nitro.  Nitro tends to melt into itself.  Poly does not.  The other thing is that nitro we use on guitars is very similar to nitro used on cars.  The poly on guitars falls into a wide wide range of stuff from the "TruOil" type finish on one end of the spectrum, to the catalyzed hard finish W uses on the other end of the spectrum.  And all points in between.  So, the real issue is not one of safety but more of "will it buff".


BTW, do a Google search on "will it blend" and sit back and get ready to laugh yer butt off.
 
-CB- said:
The issue is not safety with poly.  Its always the other way around.  However, the problem with poly is that it does not sand like or buff like nitro.  Nitro tends to melt into itself.  Poly does not.  The other thing is that nitro we use on guitars is very similar to nitro used on cars.  The poly on guitars falls into a wide wide range of stuff from the "TruOil" type finish on one end of the spectrum, to the catalyzed hard finish W uses on the other end of the spectrum.  And all points in between.  So, the real issue is not one of safety but more of "will it buff".


Thats the problem I have. It is not buffing well. Should I try some of that swirl remover and polish after steel wool or some other remedy?
 
I have been using this on my Tru-Oil finish, So far I'm gettiing a nice shine with it.
3M PERFECT-IT 3000 Extra Fine Rubbing Compound with a buffing disc on my Dewalt Random Orbit Sander
 
I did another sanding with 1500 grit and added another coat of poly ( Miniwax wipe-on gloss).I found out the trick was to thin the last few coats. I have ordered the Micro Mesh papers for the final sanding and polishing, but I think its turning out great so far.
 

Attachments

  • body_final.jpg
    body_final.jpg
    79.8 KB · Views: 396
Back
Top