Sid Nitzerglobin
Junior Member
- Messages
- 77
After several year of wasted hours playing with the configurator and trawling the in stock stuff, I finally could resist no longer, took the plunge and actually ordered something today :laughing7:
Neck:
http://www.warmoth.com/Showcase/ShowcaseNeck.aspx?i=VT1352&Body=1&Path=Neck#.VstZHPkrJBI
It's a vintage construction one piece bonus birdseye maple w/ 1-11/16" nut width, 9.5" straight radius, Boatneck profile, & black dot markers. I'm going ahead and having them prep for LSR nut and went w/ SS6105 frets and 11/32" vintage tuner holes.
Body:
http://www.warmoth.com/Showcase/ShowcaseItem.aspx?i=T4598&Body=2&Path=Body#.VstaavkrJBI
Standard Chambered Tele w/ Black Korina body and top and 1 F hole, vintage Tele bridge route, 7/8" input jack rout, P-90 neck and Tele bridge routs, contoured heel and tummy and forearm cuts, weighing in at 4lbs. 1 oz. (Also grabbed a couple sets of the staggered neck screws for the contoured heel and F hole Tele pickguard w/ P90 neck rout in .06" matte black.)
Planning to do dye + oil finishes (thinking TransTint for the color and tung or tru oil) on both and I'm hoping to hit a mild vintage tint for the majority of the neck. I'm a bit more undecided on the hue and saturation I'd like to go for on the body and the face of the headstock. My first instinct would be to stay towards more natural kinda coloration in keeping w/ the downgraded Bender concept I fell onto trying come up w/a headstock decal but am not totally averse to maybe trying some kinda more obvious transparent color if I think I might be able to pull it off. I've never done guitar finish work of any sort but it's sounded like the dye +oil route should be one of the most straightforward approaches and it sounds like something I oughta be able to handle from the conversations I've had. The sketchiest part to me seems like it would be trying to do the color matched headstock face both from containing bleed to the rest of the headstock and matching the color on the maple to the black korina of the body.
Here's where I left the headstock decal design last night:
It's not really all that close to any particular authentic Fender style, but I'm actually pretty good w/ that and I think I like what I've got so far. I'll need to change up the tremolo and contour body text as I was initially looking at swamp ash bodies and hoping to use the Doozy Radiator trem before I noticed the korina body and decided there was no way to make the Radiator work.
Hardware-wise I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go w/ the Duesenberg aluminium short Tremola mounted straight to the top, a Mastery decorative bridge plate and bridge thimbles, Staytrem 9.5" radius offset bridge, and reuse the LSR nut, Gotoh SD-91 locking machines, and Lollar Short Dogear Neck P90 from the a previous project tele this one will replace. I've got a few bridge pup options if I want to stay w/ the Tele here (most likely candidates of what I've got on hand is either a JBE Danny Gatton T-bridge or SD APTL-1) but I might want to try something new (thinking maybe a Lollar Special T).
Sorta debating maybe skipping the traditional pickguard, bridge plate, and tele control plate and doing some routing to use a Duesenberg TV pickguard over the top of the standard tele control plate rout and maybe going to an english mount type T-Armond in a humbucker ring for the bridge pup and a Compton for the bridge but not too sure there.
Anywho, that's where I'm at w/ the Splintercaster. Super excited to get this one moving along
Thanks for reading! I appreciate any feedback.
Neck:
http://www.warmoth.com/Showcase/ShowcaseNeck.aspx?i=VT1352&Body=1&Path=Neck#.VstZHPkrJBI
It's a vintage construction one piece bonus birdseye maple w/ 1-11/16" nut width, 9.5" straight radius, Boatneck profile, & black dot markers. I'm going ahead and having them prep for LSR nut and went w/ SS6105 frets and 11/32" vintage tuner holes.
Body:
http://www.warmoth.com/Showcase/ShowcaseItem.aspx?i=T4598&Body=2&Path=Body#.VstaavkrJBI
Standard Chambered Tele w/ Black Korina body and top and 1 F hole, vintage Tele bridge route, 7/8" input jack rout, P-90 neck and Tele bridge routs, contoured heel and tummy and forearm cuts, weighing in at 4lbs. 1 oz. (Also grabbed a couple sets of the staggered neck screws for the contoured heel and F hole Tele pickguard w/ P90 neck rout in .06" matte black.)
Planning to do dye + oil finishes (thinking TransTint for the color and tung or tru oil) on both and I'm hoping to hit a mild vintage tint for the majority of the neck. I'm a bit more undecided on the hue and saturation I'd like to go for on the body and the face of the headstock. My first instinct would be to stay towards more natural kinda coloration in keeping w/ the downgraded Bender concept I fell onto trying come up w/a headstock decal but am not totally averse to maybe trying some kinda more obvious transparent color if I think I might be able to pull it off. I've never done guitar finish work of any sort but it's sounded like the dye +oil route should be one of the most straightforward approaches and it sounds like something I oughta be able to handle from the conversations I've had. The sketchiest part to me seems like it would be trying to do the color matched headstock face both from containing bleed to the rest of the headstock and matching the color on the maple to the black korina of the body.
Here's where I left the headstock decal design last night:
It's not really all that close to any particular authentic Fender style, but I'm actually pretty good w/ that and I think I like what I've got so far. I'll need to change up the tremolo and contour body text as I was initially looking at swamp ash bodies and hoping to use the Doozy Radiator trem before I noticed the korina body and decided there was no way to make the Radiator work.
Hardware-wise I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go w/ the Duesenberg aluminium short Tremola mounted straight to the top, a Mastery decorative bridge plate and bridge thimbles, Staytrem 9.5" radius offset bridge, and reuse the LSR nut, Gotoh SD-91 locking machines, and Lollar Short Dogear Neck P90 from the a previous project tele this one will replace. I've got a few bridge pup options if I want to stay w/ the Tele here (most likely candidates of what I've got on hand is either a JBE Danny Gatton T-bridge or SD APTL-1) but I might want to try something new (thinking maybe a Lollar Special T).
Sorta debating maybe skipping the traditional pickguard, bridge plate, and tele control plate and doing some routing to use a Duesenberg TV pickguard over the top of the standard tele control plate rout and maybe going to an english mount type T-Armond in a humbucker ring for the bridge pup and a Compton for the bridge but not too sure there.
Anywho, that's where I'm at w/ the Splintercaster. Super excited to get this one moving along
Thanks for reading! I appreciate any feedback.