musicispeace
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That is one awesome combo and I like the word "splintercaster." :toothy10:
Enter the Splintercaster...
- Thread starter Sid Nitzerglobin
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DangerousR6
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Hhahaha, there's a sucker every minute. Apple would reverse engineer it, claim it as their own idea, sell it back to you when it was yours in the first place. Then sue you for infringing on an idea that wasn't theirs...Logrinn said:
ByteFrenzy
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DangerousR6 said:
It's tragical really, if you consider how Apple in their early years was constantly lashing out at the 'Evil Empire' of Microsoft and Intel, and presenting themselves as the champions for giving free choice to the people, what they have themselves become. Each time Tim Cook takes the stage I can hear Darth Vader breathing in the background...
Sid Nitzerglobin
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OK so I've done a fair bit of reading on the subject of neck finishes the past couple of days and I think I'm getting a better idea of exactly what I want to try to do. Just to see if I'm comprehending it all correctly and/or missing anything I've got a plan laid out below:
Initial Neck Prep
Dry sand whole neck w/ 400 grit
Tint entire neck w/ alcohol/TransTint or Fiebling's mixture to taste and let dry
Headstock Face and Decal
Mask end grain/edges of headstock and fretboard
2 light mist coats of rattle can satin clear acrylic lacquer to headstock face 15 minutes apart and let dry 24 hours
Prep decal w/ 3 light mist coats of acrylic lacquer 15 minutes apart and let dry for 24 hours
Sand headstock face w/ 600 grit and apply decal. Let dry 24 hours.
3 light mist coats of lacquer to headstock face 15 minutes apart, 2 light coats of lacquer 30 minutes apart, let dry for 3 hours
Lightly dull w/ green ScotchBrite pad and let dry 24 hours
Lightly wet sand w/ 600 grit, wipe clean, let dry for 1 hour. 2 light coats of lacquer 30 minutes apart then let dry 24 hours before repeating this line once for 6 coats over the decal total.
Lightly wet sand w/ 600 grit, wipe clean, and let dry for 24 hours. Repeat once.
Lightly wet sand w/ 800, then 1000, then 1200 grit, wipe clean and let dry several days.
Rest of Neck
Mask headstock face
Sand back of neck and headstock and fretboard w/ 600 grit.
Apply tru oil to back of neck and headstock and fretboard and let dry for >8 hours
Sand back of neck and headstock and fretboard w/ 800 grit.
Apply tru oil to back of neck and headstock and fretboard and let dry for >8 hours
Light wet sanding of back/edges of headstock w/ 1200 grit and let dry.
Apply tru oil to back of neck and fretboard and let dry for >8 hours
Light wet sanding back of neck and fretboard w/ 1600 grit.
Let cure for a week then buff
Body
Lightly Dry sand w/ 400 then 600 grit, wipe clean and let dry
Apply tru oil to body and let dry >8 hours, repeat once
Lightly sand body w/ 800 grit, Wipe clean and let dry
Apply tru oil to body and let dry >8 hours, repeat once
Light wet sanding of body w/ 1200 grit and let dry.
Let cure for a week then buff
Does this look like a decent plan? Is the hybrid tru oil and burnishing approach a waste of time?
Initial Neck Prep
Dry sand whole neck w/ 400 grit
Tint entire neck w/ alcohol/TransTint or Fiebling's mixture to taste and let dry
Headstock Face and Decal
Mask end grain/edges of headstock and fretboard
2 light mist coats of rattle can satin clear acrylic lacquer to headstock face 15 minutes apart and let dry 24 hours
Prep decal w/ 3 light mist coats of acrylic lacquer 15 minutes apart and let dry for 24 hours
Sand headstock face w/ 600 grit and apply decal. Let dry 24 hours.
3 light mist coats of lacquer to headstock face 15 minutes apart, 2 light coats of lacquer 30 minutes apart, let dry for 3 hours
Lightly dull w/ green ScotchBrite pad and let dry 24 hours
Lightly wet sand w/ 600 grit, wipe clean, let dry for 1 hour. 2 light coats of lacquer 30 minutes apart then let dry 24 hours before repeating this line once for 6 coats over the decal total.
Lightly wet sand w/ 600 grit, wipe clean, and let dry for 24 hours. Repeat once.
Lightly wet sand w/ 800, then 1000, then 1200 grit, wipe clean and let dry several days.
Rest of Neck
Mask headstock face
Sand back of neck and headstock and fretboard w/ 600 grit.
Apply tru oil to back of neck and headstock and fretboard and let dry for >8 hours
Sand back of neck and headstock and fretboard w/ 800 grit.
Apply tru oil to back of neck and headstock and fretboard and let dry for >8 hours
Light wet sanding of back/edges of headstock w/ 1200 grit and let dry.
Apply tru oil to back of neck and fretboard and let dry for >8 hours
Light wet sanding back of neck and fretboard w/ 1600 grit.
Let cure for a week then buff
Body
Lightly Dry sand w/ 400 then 600 grit, wipe clean and let dry
Apply tru oil to body and let dry >8 hours, repeat once
Lightly sand body w/ 800 grit, Wipe clean and let dry
Apply tru oil to body and let dry >8 hours, repeat once
Light wet sanding of body w/ 1200 grit and let dry.
Let cure for a week then buff
Does this look like a decent plan? Is the hybrid tru oil and burnishing approach a waste of time?
stratamania
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If you want to read about how I did tru oil and lacquer in a slightly different way you can pick it up in this thread.
http://unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=22445.msg335189#msg335189
In the Tele build thread in my signature I masked off on the other side of the nut to the strat build.
http://unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=22445.msg335189#msg335189
In the Tele build thread in my signature I masked off on the other side of the nut to the strat build.
Sid Nitzerglobin
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Checked out your strat and tele threads and gotta say great work! Very well documented and they seem to have turned out great. Thanks for taking the time to post them.
stratamania
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Thanks Sid, they did turn out to play well etc. I've got a couple of tweaks in the way of doing a couple of things so I might have to do a couple more...
Sid Nitzerglobin
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Had several parts streaming in this week and today, the neck!
Everything feels and looks great on it. I think I'm really gonna like the boatneck profile, the rise seems a bit more symetrically placed than the Fender or G&L V necks that I've really liked in the past but I'm thinking that might actually be a good thing for me.
Over this past weekend I picked up most of my finishing supplies and a couple of maple boards w/ a bit of figure so I could practice up some and test out some different colors and application techniques:
The top left is the undyed maple w/ 4 coats of Tru Oil progressively sanded up from 200 to 600 grit prior to each coat.
Bottom left is my first attempt working w/ the dye and tru oil and is way more yellow than I'll wind up using but actually feels pretty darn nice and has a ton of dimension to it (which I completely failed to capture w/ my cellphone).
Top right is the leading contender for neck tint so far (a darker Vintage Maple and Honey Amber mix sanded back w/ 320 grit, then a more dilluted version of the tint, then a couple of layers of tru oil) but I will most likely be dilluting the second tint by ~50% to tone it down a bit more.
The bottom right is a more saturated Light Yellow, Vintage Maple, and Honey Amber mix sanded back w/ 320 grit followed up w/ the same lighter mix Vintage Maple/Honey Amber as above w/ 4 coats of tru oil progressively sanded up to 600 grit. I was trying this out as an option for the body but not 100% sure if I'm into it or not, it probably wouldn't translate all that well to the BK for the body at any rate and I won't have any sample BK to test on so I'm leaning towards sticking w/ just a 4-6 coat tru oil finish for it.
I should have most of the rest of the parts in tomorrow assuming the bridge makes it through customs today (it's been sitting at O'Hare since Saturday afternoon :doh
and am planning to do a dry assembly of everything I've got in, do a test run of the decal(s) (picked up some Behlen Stringed Instrument Lacquer for the headstock), and try to nail down what I'm doing w/ the finishes over the weekend.
Incidentally, I grabbed some of the Behlen fretboard oil as well and am wondering if it might be a better option for finishing the fretboard than the tru oil. Anybody used it and care to offer an opinion?
Everything feels and looks great on it. I think I'm really gonna like the boatneck profile, the rise seems a bit more symetrically placed than the Fender or G&L V necks that I've really liked in the past but I'm thinking that might actually be a good thing for me.
Over this past weekend I picked up most of my finishing supplies and a couple of maple boards w/ a bit of figure so I could practice up some and test out some different colors and application techniques:
The top left is the undyed maple w/ 4 coats of Tru Oil progressively sanded up from 200 to 600 grit prior to each coat.
Bottom left is my first attempt working w/ the dye and tru oil and is way more yellow than I'll wind up using but actually feels pretty darn nice and has a ton of dimension to it (which I completely failed to capture w/ my cellphone).
Top right is the leading contender for neck tint so far (a darker Vintage Maple and Honey Amber mix sanded back w/ 320 grit, then a more dilluted version of the tint, then a couple of layers of tru oil) but I will most likely be dilluting the second tint by ~50% to tone it down a bit more.
The bottom right is a more saturated Light Yellow, Vintage Maple, and Honey Amber mix sanded back w/ 320 grit followed up w/ the same lighter mix Vintage Maple/Honey Amber as above w/ 4 coats of tru oil progressively sanded up to 600 grit. I was trying this out as an option for the body but not 100% sure if I'm into it or not, it probably wouldn't translate all that well to the BK for the body at any rate and I won't have any sample BK to test on so I'm leaning towards sticking w/ just a 4-6 coat tru oil finish for it.
I should have most of the rest of the parts in tomorrow assuming the bridge makes it through customs today (it's been sitting at O'Hare since Saturday afternoon :doh
and am planning to do a dry assembly of everything I've got in, do a test run of the decal(s) (picked up some Behlen Stringed Instrument Lacquer for the headstock), and try to nail down what I'm doing w/ the finishes over the weekend.Incidentally, I grabbed some of the Behlen fretboard oil as well and am wondering if it might be a better option for finishing the fretboard than the tru oil. Anybody used it and care to offer an opinion?
stratamania
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The Behlen fretboard oil is intended for rosewood and ebony and the like. I would not recommend it or a similar product on maple, just use the tru oil.
Edit, for clarity
Edit, for clarity
Sid Nitzerglobin
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OK, I'll stick w/ the tru oil then, thanks!stratamania said:
Yup, I've only had an LSR nut on one of the guitars this is replacing before but it works really well on it.Timmsie95 said:
Actually had a couple more orders come in late this afternoon so now I'm just waiting on the body, the bridge, CTS blend and push pull pots, the 4 way switch and the wholly decorative string ferrules :icon_biggrin:
DangerousR6
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wow, someone needs to get busy... :headbang:
DangerousR6
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There pretty pricey if I remember....Timmsie95 said:
Sid Nitzerglobin
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DangerousR6 said:
They're $309 from Duesenberg USA but a bit cheaper than I can usually find a sand cast Bigsby if you order from Rockinger in Germany, even with the shipping. It wound up being $111.15 + $20 FedEx shipping after they issued the VAT refund a couple days after I placed the order.
It's got what is most likely my favorite vibrato action and is super smooth and stable although I've yet to try one on anything but my Caribou. I'm thinking it should be the anchor of a pretty great system paired up w/ the Staytrem bridge and LSR nut assuming I can make the geometry work.
I've got this weird mix of anxiety and giddy expectation about getting the build rolling but mostly just can't wait to play this thing :headbang1: :icon_thumright: I went ahead and slapped the LSR on and aside from needing to drill the pilot holes a couple mm deeper it fits like a glove and it seems like the shelf height will be just about right w/ only one of the medium shims on the bass side.DangerousR6 said:
Sid Nitzerglobin
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Yeah, they're actually a pretty decent deal IMO when you order from Germany.
DangerousR6
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$111.15 is defiantly better than $309... :icon_thumright:
stratamania
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That's a good looking set of parts in the photo. It's almost enough to get me ordering some bits and pieces.
Sid Nitzerglobin
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Alrighty, all I'm waiting on now is the blend pot and ferrules :icon_biggrin:
Put the neck on and have the bridge, trem, control plate and strap button holes marked out and ready for the drill press:
Put the neck on and have the bridge, trem, control plate and strap button holes marked out and ready for the drill press:
