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Drilling Wenge

Yeah, I didn't have to get any psych evaluations, security clearances, strip searches or anything - there's about a lot of people selling it cheep on Ebay. I just finished mixing up a batch of all-purpose slime to put on my lovely Walnut - it runs about 1 part beeswax wax to 5, 6 parts UNBOILED flax seed (linseed) oil. I also got a (8 oz) jug of that off Ebay - the food-grade stuff. There's gallon jugs of "unboiled" linseed oil* in the hardware store, but I'm not sure I'd drink it.... I had planned on using Howard's Feed-N-Wax, but it's got the ol' petroleum evaporators. I still might try to track down some spiffy aromatic oil - orange? Lemon? NOT the hardware stuff, just pure. Ahhhh, for the stink of it.

If you want to try the actual pioneer prairie varnish, add turpentine. And the walnut STILL needs a moderate sealer - you don't want it soppy wet with oil any more than soppy wet with grease.


*(I have been taking 2 X 1000mg flax seed capsules daily for years now - it was recommend to me by the crafty ol' codger types on the Steel Guitar Forum, to treat/prevent my hands from getting cracked, peely and icky every winter. It works FANTASTIC. An old wives treatment that actually works! Udderly amazing. Cowabunga! You have to get the good stuff, I know GNC's "Natural Brand works, as does "Ultimate Nutrition." Walmart's house brand - does NOTHING.

And then I find that my brother-in-law the eye doctor puts his patients on exactly that dose for 30 days before cataract surgery - soft & supple eyeballs! There's only been two or three times in the last decade that I had to go all drastic - which is the slimy udder treatment for cows called "Bag Balm" ( pure lanolin) smeared all over, then unpowdered plastic gloves, then cloth gloves over that. Sleep on it. When you peel off the gloves, your hands will be so soft and supple babies are going to want to come rub their asses on YOU!)



OK weeners - can you beat THAT for Topic-Drift-of-the-Month? :evil4:
 
I use a beeswax-based hand cream that is freaking awesome.  It creates a water resistant barrier on your skin so you can wash your hands a zillion times a day it won't get dried out and cracked.  It's really thick too, kind of like that body butter stuff. 

Anywho, it's great stuff and it smells like honey, and the guy also sells tons of honey and beeswax-based products including polishes and just pure wax for projects.  I want to try the beeswax bandage some time because I'm allergic to regular bandage adhesive, and regular liquid bandage can sting a lot. 

http://www.thehoneyguy.com/
 
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I used one of these to do all the drilling on the build in my Sig.
Same tuners maple neck.
Get a good set of small bits 1/16-1/8.
Should cover all your piloting needs on one of these builds.
As far as lubing screws, beeswax works, even just a tiny drop of mineral oil will get it in there good, then help swell the wood around the threads.

:icon_thumright:
 
Wouldn't use bar soap - not interested in what happens when even a little smear of soap (a base whose active ingredient is dilute sodium hydroxide - aka lye) remains in contact with the wood for an extended period.
 
Bagman67 said:
Wouldn't use bar soap - not interested in what happens when even a little smear of soap (a base whose active ingredient is dilute sodium hydroxide - aka lye) remains in contact with the wood for an extended period.

Good point. NaOH is used in wood bleaches, IIRC.
 
interesting, in all the years I used bar soap I never had an issue...

BUT, I was using it for solid finished work.
So yes I can see the urge to not use this option in trans/clear finishes,
or dark woods like Wenge.

Thank you for enlightening me to these perils lest I make that very mistake.
Because that would wind up Pissin' me off if I did that....
 
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