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Drilling Wenge

mystique1

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My new Wenge/Ebony Strat neck arrives Monday. I'm fitting Schaller M6 Mini tuners and a Graphtech string tree. I've read that Wenge is a very hard wood, so any tips to avoid screw breakages? I've already broken a tuner screw in a regular Maple neck, so I'm kinda hesitant and don't want the same thing to happen with this one.
 
yes it is hard, but should not be harder than maple.  Just get yourself a good/new bit and drill.  I like to put al ittle masking tape on the bit to mark the depth I want to go so not to drill thru the neck.
 
mystique1 said:
I've read that Wenge is a very hard wood, so any tips to avoid screw breakages?
I've already broken a tuner screw in a regular Maple neck, so I'm kinda hesitant and don't want the same thing to happen with this one.
          :redflag:


WAX  !! ..... 
 
1. Make certain you're using the correct size bit for the correct size pilot.
2. Test each screw in a scrap piece of wood before putting them in your neck.  This does two things-- First, it ensures you have the correct size pilot.  Second, if you have a weak/defective screw, it will break in your scrap rather than your wenge neck.
3. Use a small screwdriver.  It's easy to over torque the screw heads and break them off if you're using a long shaft driver.

+1 on wax or soap.
 
I use bee's wax, too. Doesn't go rancid, doesn't have any additives in it, doesn't harden up, lubricates well... it's good stuff. Not as easy to find as you might imagine, though. Over about 20 years I've had two chunks of it, and haven't started in on the second one yet. You use so little. But, of all places, JoAnne fabrics has small chunks of it pretty cheap.
 
It is useful to remember that the screw is an alignment pin only; there is no useful reason to have it be "sturdy" in other dimensions. I've been using alignment=pin tuners lately, but I suspect the next time I install tuners needing "screws" I'll go with bridge saddle pins:
http://www.stratcat.biz/hardware-screws-saddle-height.shtml

With these I'll drill the hole to merely press-fit, and a tiny dab of cyano glue (or Elmers!) Ounce per ounce or measured by cubic inches, there is more heartache associated with those little buggers than with all else. Considering a piece of toothpick would do the same job.... :dontknow:
 
StübHead said:
It is useful to remember that the screw is an alignment pin only; there is no useful reason to have it be "sturdy" in other dimensions.

That's true. The screws aren't being used as "fasteners". They're an anti-rotation device, or an anchor, or an alignment pin. Call it what you will. At least with good tuners. On the beer can units from Kluson and copies of those, they're actually fasteners. But, I imagine anyone using those things probably wouldn't care if they're actually tied down securely. Stable, repeatable tuning is not on the list of features. With those, it's all about appearance. "Look! I'm unaware that the state of the art improved over 30 years ago! Pretty cool, eh?"
 
Wenge is not very hard, and nor does it present any issues drilling, other than the tendency to splinter.

There shouldn't be any issues driving screws into it. Like any other wood, you wax the screws, and drill the proper diameter pilot hole.
 
mystique1 said:
Are we talking regular candle wax, or something more specialised?

Candle wax is sufficient for most people. I wouldn't use scented candles, or candles with any weird additives, though.
 
They sell clear paraffin wax at the grocery store for canning too.  Ultra cheap, no extra crap added to it, works fine.  I do like beeswax a little better, but paraffin is cheaper and easier to find. 
 
hannaugh said:
They sell clear paraffin wax at the grocery store for canning too.  Ultra cheap, no extra crap added to it, works fine.  I do like beeswax a little better, but paraffin is cheaper and easier to find.

All true. I should stop advocating beeswax, given its difficulty to obtain. Paraffin is also good for potting pickups, should you end up with one that's microphonic. Just don't pour the melted leftovers down the drain unless you're looking to help pay the plumber's daughter's way through college.

But, just so everyone knows, beeswax is nice and soft while paraffin is hard and crumbly. It's easier to get it down in the threads of the screw. Not sure it matters - just saying.
 
Yeah, paraffin definitely isn't as nice as beeswax.  But hey, it works if you can't get the good stuff.
 
Right. The important thing is to lube the screws. Passing on that is begging for trouble.
 
In a pinch you can also just scrap the screw threads over a bar of soap.  The beeswax does a better job but it's better than nothing.
 
I got my beeswax on eBay for cheap. No problem finding it at all (I'm in the UK though).

I like the fact that it's a bit stickier than candle wax - stays on the thread, doesn't crumble up everywhere, but still makes the screw go in dead easy.
 
Screws might not be a problem but when I tried to install threaded inserts it started splintering bad. Ruh roh.
 
Jumble Jumble said:
I got my beeswax on eBay for cheap. No problem finding it at all (I'm in the UK though).

I like the fact that it's a bit stickier than candle wax - stays on the thread, doesn't crumble up everywhere, but still makes the screw go in dead easy.

Got the Bees Wax as advised and the tuners are fitted with no problems. I'm in the UK too, and got 2 chunks on Ebay for £1.99!
 
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