deep grain fill with super glue - results

[SkuttleFunk]

for a better quality CA glue intended for woodworking, check out the selection available at Woodcraft.

having used a couple different brands on many different woods, I really have come to prefer USA Gold thick and thin

http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=339

the link here also has UnStikit (good to have a bottle around to set your fingers free when filling something that leaks from an unsuspecting crack) and the accelerator (good for getting a deep fill to set near instantly)


if you ever need it in larger quantities, most local wood turning clubs usually have it available at their meetings

all the best,

R

 

[DangerousR6]

for a better quality CA glue intended for woodworking, check out the selection available at Woodcraft.

having used a couple different brands on many different woods, I really have come to prefer USA Gold thick and thin

http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=339

the link here also has UnStikit (good to have a bottle around to set your fingers free when filling something that leaks from an unsuspecting crack) and the accelerator (good for getting a deep fill to set near instantly)


if you ever need it in larger quantities, most local wood turning clubs usually have it available at their meetings

all the best,

R

Thanks for the info there Skuttle..... :icon_thumright:

 

[DangerousR6]

I got another question, what if any advantage would there be to using epoxy vs. CA?  Or would it be about the same? :dontknow:

 

[SkuttleFunk]

biggest advantage I see for epoxy would be if you were filling really large inclusions, cracks, etc ...

another advantage is that epoxy, when mixed with the correct fillers, makes an excellet filler (and even a primer for certain kinds of spray finishes)

epoxy can also be easily tinted

all the best,

R

 

[-CB-]

I can see one possible issue with epoxy, and that is surface hardness.

Superglue (CA) dries very hard when applied thin - as it would be in guitars.

Almost every epoxy, when spread thin, will not have the surface hardness you'd desire for a finish, and as such will be a bit harder to sand and level.  Most common epoxies require a certain application thickness, to get up enough heat to "kick over" properly.  The one way around that is to apply by area, and subject to heat from an outside source in order to properly catalyze the resin.  Compared to CA, epoxies are rather slow drying as well. 

Superglue pretty much dries to the touch in minutes, and is fully rock hard in hours (just let it sit overnight, and your fine).  Seems to be completely stable too, no "after shrinkage".  That stability is one reason I held off on spraying this Tele body I've got here, I wanted to be sure it was not going to go nuts on me with time.  I don't believe it will.  And I darn near bought some deep blue metallic paint today... for the body...  sale on auto paint at the local wrench emporium

 

[DangerousR6]

Well my spalt has no deep fisures or cracks or voids of any sort. Surprisingly for a spalt it's not even spunky feeling ing the spalted areas. So I feel that CA will be the way to go, plus as you say -CB-, epoxies can be tempermental if not mixed correctly....

 

[DangerousR6]

I can see one possible issue with epoxy, and that is surface hardness.

Superglue (CA) dries very hard when applied thin - as it would be in guitars.

Almost every epoxy, when spread thin, will not have the surface hardness you'd desire for a finish, and as such will be a bit harder to sand and level.  Most common epoxies require a certain application thickness, to get up enough heat to "kick over" properly.  The one way around that is to apply by area, and subject to heat from an outside source in order to properly catalyze the resin.  Compared to CA, epoxies are rather slow drying as well. 

Superglue pretty much dries to the touch in minutes, and is fully rock hard in hours (just let it sit overnight, and your fine).  Seems to be completely stable too, no "after shrinkage".  That stability is one reason I held off on spraying this Tele body I've got here, I wanted to be sure it was not going to go nuts on me with time.  I don't believe it will.  And I darn near bought some deep blue metallic paint today... for the body...  sale on auto paint at the local wrench emporium

Is that going to be a flake type metallic or just a basic type metallic.?

 

[-CB-]

looked like small flecks - so I'd call that "basic" metallic.

 

[SkuttleFunk]

here's more info on using an epoxy for your filler and primer - the recommended workflow when working with KTM-9 waterbased lacquer

http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts.asp?CategoryName=Filler&NameProdHeader=System+3+Epoxy+Filler


more info on KTM-9 can be found here

http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts.asp?CategoryName=Finishes&NameProdHeader=KTM+Product+Line+%96+Water+based+Finish


for those wishing to spray with a gun, this stuff is the cat's pajamas, and the product that many, many professional builders are using on both electrics and acoustics as their finishing product of preference

all the best,

R