Finishing a Warmoth Swamp Ash Thinline Telecaster body
- Thread starter Steven_nl
- Start date
stratamania
Mythical Status
- Messages
- 11,015
Dankjewel. Geen U 
Back to English for the forum
Back to English for the forum
stratamania
Mythical Status
- Messages
- 11,015
Thanks, you might find this build I have linked interesting.
unofficialwarmoth.com
Natural Ash Tele
If you saw the out of the box thread yesterday the discussions of tea and a T type guitar continues in this work in progress diary thread. I will try and give some tips as I go so it may be useful to someone at some point. Here is the out of the box thread for reference...
unofficialwarmoth.com
this is my Tele. Made by Dutch retired luthier and friend Peer Dellen. Warmoth body and neck. It is to heavy for me. Thought about selling but did not want to. Kinman pickups. Wilkinson bridge. Bought a Warmoth contoured thinline. Feels great. Want to do a simple finish. Not relic, but doesnt matter if it looks used quick.
Great. Thanks!!Thanks, you might find this build I have linked interesting.
Natural Ash Tele
If you saw the out of the box thread yesterday the discussions of tea and a T type guitar continues in this work in progress diary thread. I will try and give some tips as I go so it may be useful to someone at some point. Here is the out of the box thread for reference...
Okay guys, time for an opdate and some tips from a complete noob.
- 2 layers of Rustin grain filler (old t shirt) and some scraping and light sanding. If you want to fill all the grain this is not enough
- oker pigment and alcohol 2 layers
- 2 layers of Rustins sanding sealer applied with a t shirt
- amber shellac alcohol based applied with an applicator made of a tshirt with cotton balls inside. Layer after layer in a circulair motion and in the direction of the grain. Use drops of alcohol to thin thr shellac. If it starts t stick, use a drop or 2 of olive oil.
TOP TIP. DO NOT CONTIMUE WHEN IT FEELS STICKY. YOU WILL RUIN PREVIOUS LAYERS AND YOU WILL NEED TO SAND DOWN EVERYTING TO GET IT EVEN. I was content with a vintage look sanded a bit and improvised. A somehat lighter spot can be seen. Better to let it dry between coats. Patience....
- after a dozen coats it started to get an egg shell glow. I let it dry for 48 hours.
TOP TIP 2. USE A TIERAP AND SOME TAPE TO GET THE NECK HUMBUCKER WIRE THROUGH THE BODY. WITH A CHAMBERED BODY IT IS HARD.
The F hole makes it harder to get a nice finish
The light spot on the left is reflection. The mistake us to the left of the F hole
- 2 layers of Rustin grain filler (old t shirt) and some scraping and light sanding. If you want to fill all the grain this is not enough
- oker pigment and alcohol 2 layers
- 2 layers of Rustins sanding sealer applied with a t shirt
- amber shellac alcohol based applied with an applicator made of a tshirt with cotton balls inside. Layer after layer in a circulair motion and in the direction of the grain. Use drops of alcohol to thin thr shellac. If it starts t stick, use a drop or 2 of olive oil.
TOP TIP. DO NOT CONTIMUE WHEN IT FEELS STICKY. YOU WILL RUIN PREVIOUS LAYERS AND YOU WILL NEED TO SAND DOWN EVERYTING TO GET IT EVEN. I was content with a vintage look sanded a bit and improvised. A somehat lighter spot can be seen. Better to let it dry between coats. Patience....
- after a dozen coats it started to get an egg shell glow. I let it dry for 48 hours.
TOP TIP 2. USE A TIERAP AND SOME TAPE TO GET THE NECK HUMBUCKER WIRE THROUGH THE BODY. WITH A CHAMBERED BODY IT IS HARD.
The F hole makes it harder to get a nice finish
The light spot on the left is reflection. The mistake us to the left of the F hole
Last edited:
