Leaderboard

CNC build

This is a telecaster template. At least the start of one. I'm no expert but I think this is bigger than a standard string hole.

IMG_20180709_2241589882.jpg
 
Redid the CAM. Seems to be working correctly today. Cheapest bit known to man but so far so good.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAqhcP35XOE[/youtube]

 
Well check heights and whatnot carefully. My surfacing bit did not care to meet one of the hold down screws. That underwear is in the trash.

Made a nice template and have half surfaced a body blank.

Trying to figure out how to surface a neck blank while losing the least amount of neck.
 
I can't believe I wasn't following this thread from the beginning. Perhaps trying to avoid temptation. But I'm now looking into the Ox/Workbee  stuff. I was thinking of the 1050 - with a leadscrew on the X and a belt on the Y. 12.5" is barely enough to handle a body width. But most of what I wanted was to be able to handle 1/4 sheet of plywood parts, milling/drilling router templates.  I figured up to be able to handle a bass neck, with headstock, you probably want about 35" OAL workspace - or just a little bigger than the 1050, and to handle bodies you'd probably want just a little bit bigger than its 12.5".  Although that's a common planer limitiation size and abou the size of mine so... skinny bodies it is.
 
Don't forget - you also have to consider the size of the tool and the fact that its end effector is generally in the center of it. So, if the carriage has a 12" travel, your cutter (or whatever) will only be able to access something less than that. In the case of a router, that might mean your workpiece can only be 9" wide or less. So, if you wanted to cut out something like a Tele body, which is roughly 13" wide, you'd probably want at least a 16" travel to allow for tool clearance.

But, maybe what's being advertised is the accessible range. In that case, never mind.
 
https://openbuildspartstore.com/openbuilds-workbee-1050-40-x-20/
The 1050 nominal size is 20"x40", with a work area of 12.5" x 30". It might still be a little small though, depending on tool size and left/right of the work piece, etc...  It can be built up to about a 60x40 size, with a 32"x50" work area, but that's a big table and going over 30" or so requires you to change that axis from lead screw to belt drive.

For our purposes, I think a 30x45 size, with a lead screw on the X and Z and a belt on the Y axis to get the required length would be perfect. Of course if you limit yourself to guitars and headless basses, you can eek it out on a leadscrew version. 

It's close enough and the limitations are stout enough that it might actually be better to come up with a 2 setup plan with index holes in the workpiece though. If you cut the headstock in a separate setup from the neck profiling you could do it on a 30"er, but for various other contraptions and jigs I just feel like being able to go to a full 2'x4' workpiece would rock.
 
I really like the 1010. The work area on it is 30.5" x 32". One of these days. Thanks for that link.
 
This is why I swapped out the 8020 bracing for 6020. This let me sink the spoilboard into the base. Just trying to claw back 20mm. The lack of Z space is a problem. The upshot is that most bits designed for my spindle are not very tall so it isn't like I could use a long bit.

I think I can create new brackets for the gantry that are taller. Then it is just a larger piece of 6020 extrusion and lead screw on the Z axis.

I have a telecaster fretboard in fusion 360 drawing I'm trying to do the CAM for now.

 
I would probably start with the workbee instead of the ox if I had to do it again.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/WorkBee-CNC-Mechanical-Kit-OX-CNC-Kit-Upgrade-Version-DIY-CNC-Carving-Machine-tool-CNC-Milling/1752067_32909495533.html

It wasn't that much more expensive.

Also the taller Ox plates are like $82.... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Openbuilds-OX-CNC-taller-gantry-plate-kit-OX-CNC-Aluminum-Taller-Gantry-Side-Plates-10-mm/32763167303.html Since they exist I should be able to cut them. Although the cost of the material (assuming at least 1 fuckup) would probably exceed that.
 
I was messaging back and forth for one of those 750x1000 Bulk-Man 3D units on ebay. The guy wouldn't answer my questions and finally stopped communicating with me. I'm not sure if he was avoiding providing the information I asked for or there was a serious language problem. I figure I was better off not dealing with him. I spent the money I had set aside for other tools and guitar parts. One of these days I'll look into one again.
 
Yeah, I saw alibaba's communication rating for that seller. 65% Congrats on making the 35%. The other issue I have with Bulkman, is they actually use Ooznest photographs and stuff, and it's visible in their photographs, when they're clearly just another Chinese seller selling an open design with no relation to the Ooznest folks.
 
swarfrat said:
Yeah, I saw alibaba's communication rating for that seller. 65% Congrats on making the 35%. The other issue I have with Bulkman, is they actually use Ooznest photographs and stuff, and it's visible in their photographs, when they're clearly just another Chinese seller selling an open design with no relation to the Ooznest folks.
Click to expand...
Thanks, that explains a lot. When the time comes, I'll look into the Ooznest stuff.
 
swarfrat said:
Yeah, I saw alibaba's communication rating for that seller. 65% Congrats on making the 35%. The other issue I have with Bulkman, is they actually use Ooznest photographs and stuff, and it's visible in their photographs, when they're clearly just another Chinese seller selling an open design with no relation to the Ooznest folks.
Click to expand...

Oh, it is much worse than that. Mine came with an Ooznest name plate.
 
Rgand said:
swarfrat said:
Yeah, I saw alibaba's communication rating for that seller. 65% Congrats on making the 35%. The other issue I have with Bulkman, is they actually use Ooznest photographs and stuff, and it's visible in their photographs, when they're clearly just another Chinese seller selling an open design with no relation to the Ooznest folks.
Click to expand...
Thanks, that explains a lot. When the time comes, I'll look into the Ooznest stuff.
Click to expand...
The openbuilds stuff I've bought has also been really good. You can put together a really nice C-beam setup from their stuff, too.
 
Slotting frets with the wrong bit. This takes forever. I think the right bits can be had from precisebits.com. Also amazon seems to have a 0.023" kodiak cutting tools bit and a similar cobra carbide bit. The kodiak one is $8 more and has 2 more flutes. Think I'll order that.

Anything that lets me crank up the speed to .25mm or 100mm/minutes or both would be great.

Cheap collets are proving a problem. Check your runout for each of them.

[youtube]https://youtu.be/vbtkBT79Tu0[/youtube]

Not going to be able to do the radius on the machine. An error in my 3d drawing hosed me. Also I can't get anything to do tool changes right.
 
another project, but i think a saw head would be better than trying to mill fret slots.Or maybe score them with a pointy bit and cut by hand. (That actually would seem the most practical.)
 
Um, maybe. But milling works pretty good by all accounts. Just takes a long time if you have the wrong bits.
 
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