Any Tips For Enlarging Tuner Holes?

[LooseCannon]

Hey guys, i've bought a neck and I need to enlrage the tuner holes by around 0.5-1mm. What would be the best way to do it?

I've read a lot about the subject and most agree that drills should be avoided.

Some recommend a reamer, however that would create a cone shaped hole.

I've also read about using a drill bit by hand or a rat tail file.

So far the option which seems most suitable to me is using a pencil with sandpaper around it.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

 

[Dan025]

not that type of reamer. a machine reamer is designed to make highly precise holes. they have about 6 flutes that are parallel or reverse helix so it wont dig. they are not often used on wood but work great on hardwood. any machine shop will have them.

 

[LooseCannon]

Thanks Dan, do you mean a machine reamer like this one: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ReamerMachineSpiral.jpg

If not could you include a link to the correct model?

BTW how much do these cost? From what i've seen they go around $20, if those are the standard prices i'd rather go with a different solution.

 

[blue313]

I've done it a bunch of ways, but the pencil method is the least likely to cause problems. 

I like to use a (non-powered) hand drill in reverse, using just the weight of the drill.  In reverse the bit will ream instead of bite.

 

[m4rk0]

I have used one of these before without any problems... :dontknow:

 

[LooseCannon]

I have used one of these before without any problems... :dontknow:

Thanks but that's a reamer. If you look in my original post i've mentioned a reamer isn't a good option since the hole ends up being tapered, even if you use it from both sides it would end up with an hourglass shape.
Plus I need to enlarge the tremolo stud post holes as well, and I can only go one way on those.

 

[Dan025]

yes like that one but most have flutes that have no helix and some actually have a reverse helix. this would be ideal as it would not be drawn into the hole so you cut gradually.

it seems you are opposed to using a tapered reamer as marko has shown, tapered reamers could work in most situations but the machine reamer is more ideal as i think you agree.

 

[Dan025]

yes they are expensive. as i said the are for finishing holes in metal to a very precise final diameter as they dont walk or bite. i wouldn't suggest to buy one but maybe a machine shop can lend you one. i have used them on maple myself and can recommend it. but if you have patience the ol sandpaper and a pencil trick does work too.

 

[TroubledTreble]

If you want to ream it, use a "chucking reamer". One with a rounded or tapered end as to create a smooth start. They have them a McMaster Carr, but I'm sure you can find them fairly inexpensively somewhere on the web. You don't need anything fancy, just plain steel, low speed....

You can use a tapered reamer if the final diameter is what you need, so you would not stop reaming until it went all the way through. Just chuck one up in a drill press for best accuracy.

You could also find a friendly local machine shop and ask if they wouldn't mind doing it for a few bucks.

Here is a link to some reamers. http://www.discount-tools.com/lav-533.cfm

 

[Dan025]

thanks TT
the thing is that you are cutting wood and these are designed for metal so it is complete overkill. you could buy the cheapest chinese junk and it would more than serve your purposes. you should be able to find something from $5 to $15 dollars US if you look hard enough.

 

[-CB-]

I use a .375 sanding drum on a dremel at lowish speed to relieve holes made by Warmoth for vintage type press fit bushings

 

[big bob]

I use a rat tale file works fine.. go slow.

 

[LooseCannon]

Thanks guys, i've used a dowl wrapped with sandpaper and it worked out great.

However, the tuners (sperzels sound loks), have two parts- the body\key and the sleeve nut. I've enlarged the holes so the key's shaft fits nice and tight, but the sleeve nut inserted from the other side is too tight, though it could go in with a lot of pressure, it does need to be screwed on the shaft. Any ideas?