The quickest/easiest method I have found for making a "wedged" shim is the masking tape method. Basically you just stack concentric layers of masking tape. It's cheap to experiment with different thicknesses, etc. I'm sure YouTube has a video of someone showing how to do it. I've used it several times and it works great.
I've never heard of this, but it is an interesting idea. Does one use the masking tape to identify the dimensions of the shim that is needed, then use that as a model to make a shim out of something more solid, like wood? Or is the masking tape construct actually used as the final shim?
As to the notion that non-tapered wedges are going to eventually ruin a neck - that is a phantom-fear, IMO. There are millions of necks out there shimmed with guitar picks, business cards, coins, scraps of leather, metal plates, etc, etc, etc. that have functioned just fine for decades. I suppose damage could happen in theory, but in the time it would take for that to happen you would most likely have a whole slough of other age-related problems with your neck.
This is good to know. The base of the neck that accepts the mounting screws indeed is the thickest chunk of wood in a neck, so it makes sense that it would take a LOT to actually warp this part of the neck.
As far the neck pocket angle, please keep in mind that when a company is making a factory model, fully assembled guitar, all the variables can be factored in. There is only a finite amount of hardware and other contingencies to worry about, and all the perfect angles can established. However, as you all know, Warmoth does not sell completed guitars. We sell parts. It is a never-ending task around here trying to make sure that all the myriad parts we offer are compatible with all the other parts we offer, including all the possible variations of each and every part. This isn't even taking into account the dizzying range of hardware people want to use. Most certainly some tweaking is occasionally going to be necessary.
When it comes to angled neck pockets, or any neck pockets for that matter, it's impossible to have one standard that fits all set-ups. Too many variables to consider; fret height, particular bridge, fingerboard radius, owner preferences, etc. Shims are a part of the trade and there is nothing at all wrong with using them.
I fully understand this. As a testament to Warmoth (and the wide-ranging compatibilities), I've built 19 Warmoths and this is the first one to have such an issue. And, admittedly, the non-recessed Floyd on a carved top body is an unusual request. I greatly appreciate Christina taking ownership of the issue; I hope that I did not imply otherwise. I will say that the sales person I first notified of this issue initially wasn't the most helpful. I had to push the issue a bit further. That said, I'm sure they have to deal with a lot of people who have unrealistic expectations or desires. It's probably only after someone provides them not only with details of the problem but also potential causes and solutions that they realize that it really is a potential issue that should be dealt with on their end. This is fine, by me. I will say, though, that the specs for the body all came from the build page; there was nothing so unusual that I had to pick up the phone to inquire about something off-menu. The VIP carved top is a standard body. The compound radius is a Warmoth standard. The 6100 frets are the tallest ones offered by Warmoth (other frets would have increased the distance from the strings to the fret crown, but this might not even be perceptible) . The Original Floyd Rose is an industry standard. "Non-recessed OFR with angled neck pocket" is a check-box on the order page, with a $10 upcharge. Like I said previously, the angle in the neck pocket is probably perfect for a flat top body, but it apparently is not enough of an angle for a carved top. So, we learned something. Or, at least I did. It's all good. In the end, as long as Warmoth is willing to accept that it is a true issue and that it can be corrected relatively easily (either by Warmoth or on my end), I am satisfied. It might be a short-term inconvenience, but after it is corrected, I'm going to have one very sweet VIP, thanks to well-made "parts" by Warmoth. With all due respect, shims are definitely "part of the trade." Perhaps my expectations are unrealistic. It just seems to me that if all of the option choices made in specifying the build of the body are listed in the standard choices offered, then no compensatory modifications should be necessary to make the final product playable. If I was trying to replace a body or neck and the guitar I was repairing/upgrading used some non-menu items in its construction, such as a bridge not listed, or a non-Strat neck pocket, then I wouldn't think twice about using a shim. I also wouldn't think twice about a shim if I was building a guitar and was using parts not sold by Warmoth with dimensions different than those listed in the construct menus (such as bridge height) or a non-Warmoth neck. But again, it's all good. At this point, I'm fairly certain this issue will be able to be resolved without the use of a shim.
ccasion14: That said...
