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After months of Tru-oiling...

This is showing off... :icon_biggrin:
Shedua-Finish1small.jpg
 
DangerousR6 said:
This is showing off... :icon_biggrin:
Shedua-Finish1small.jpg

That was $150 on ebay.  It is just a 12" Celestion G12H30 cabinet.

If I were to do this again from scratch, knowing what I know now.

2 coats of Birtchwood Casey sealer
1 coat Tru-oil sanded with 220 to fill the grain.
2nd coat Tru-oil sanded with 220 to fill the grain.
Possible 3rd coat Tru-oil sanded with 220 to fill the grain depending if I have missed any spots

4th coat Tru oil sanded with 320 grit and wipe off with a rag soaked with naptha (well not soaked, but you know what I mean).  This will give a smooth finish.  It is basically wet sanding, but you do end up leaving some Tru oil on the surface.
Repeat step 4 with 400 grit
Repeat with 600 grit
Repeat with 1200-1500 grit
Repeat with 3000 grit
Wet sand with 3000 grit
Wet sand with the blue 6000 grit http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supplies/Abrasives,_polishes,_buffers/3M_Flexible_Polishing_Papers.html
Final coat 2/3 Tru oil, 1/3 Naptha.  Use a microfiber cloth that has not been cut.
Getting that last coat is a delicate technique.  If you don't like the final coat, just go back and wet sand with the 6000 and try again

I would say, not counting the coats I sanded back, I have around 30 coats.  Total I may have sanded back around 20+ coats in my trials.
 
That's basically what I did on a couple guitars with Danish oil, only I didn't move up to such a fine grit paper. I wasn't going for a shinny finish so no need. But it worked out so well in filling the grain that they will polish out. Not as glossy but they will still shine.
 
I would kind-of guess that because he bought a body with a whammy hole, he probably wants a whammy... not everyone here yet realizes that you should buy a whammy bod just to cover it up!

Kind-a like the suddenly universally-known internet/guitar fact that the specific reason to buy a guitar with a thin nitro finish is that you can wear it off quickly and then you'll be cool.
 
StubHead said:
I would kind-of guess that because he bought a body with a whammy hole, he probably wants a whammy... not everyone here yet realizes that you should buy a whammy bod just to cover it up!

Kind-a like the suddenly universally-known internet/guitar fact that the specific reason to buy a guitar with a thin nitro finish is that you can wear it off quickly and then you'll be cool.
True... :doh:
 
While I'm excited to see Scarztozi innovatin, and it's a novel solution, In the future any already routed strats I buy will probably put 6 hole trems screwed down in some fashion, blocked front and back. Who knows, maybe even remove the metal trem block, don't route the top at all, fill the whole cavity (at least lengthwise) and screw down through the unrouted top into the wooden block. More than one way to skin that cat.

It's not just a fad. W tends to overwhelmingly route strat bodies, and even bodies which would traditionally have other bridges, a large chunk of them have a large chunk missing out of the back before you have opportunity to buy. There are about 46 hardtail strat bodies in the showcase. There are around 520 trem routed strat bodies in the showcase. Sometimes you can find tempting bodies which have already had unfortunate and unspeakable mutilations done to them. Perhaps someday, we will look at this like declawing cats, or docking dog's ears and tails, or removing their larynx so we can't hear them bark. A cruel and dignity robbing mutilation done for the owners whim or fashion. In the meantime, there are some killer deals in the showcase, and some breathtakingly beautiful specimens which unfortunately have already been routed for a trem.
 
I have a fair amount of casting epoxy lying around still; it's the 2-part stuff that hardens up to a solid, heavy dense plastic as least as heavy as hardwood. If I somehow saw a completely irresistible body, only half-mutilated (AKA tremolo routing "your choice") I wouldn't hesitate to fill the spring hole with it. Hey - maybe I should order a body with tremolo routing, just so I can fill it up.... ???
 
That is a fantastic finish, and having attempted it myself and failed, I can definitely appreciate the work (and patience!) that went into it.
 
StubHead said:
I have a fair amount of casting epoxy lying around still; it's the 2-part stuff that hardens up to a solid, heavy dense plastic as least as heavy as hardwood. If I somehow saw a completely irresistible body, only half-mutilated (AKA tremolo routing "your choice") I wouldn't hesitate to fill the spring hole with it. Hey - maybe I should order a body with tremolo routing, just so I can fill it up.... ???
I used a 2 part 2-ton epoxy on this spalted maple top, it cured hard as a rock. Surprisingly epoxy will polish to a nice shine too..
DejaVooDoo-4.jpg
 
I need to ask, what brand(s) of sandpaper were you using during everything besides the last 3M polishing paper? I luckily discovered that the "synthetic steel wool" that I was planning to do my anti-French polishing Tru-Oil finish with actually kicks out a whole bunch of stuff that is much closer to "sand" than to "grain filler." I'm familiar with the old gray wet/dry paper, but in doing a bit of reading it seems there are new miracles in Sandpaperland? Or is that just the Stew-Mac blurb department at full throttle... ???
 
SubHead,
I used 3M 800 gritt and POWERTEC 1,000 Wet/Dry Sandpaper before using the 3M polishing paper/cloth, Powertec has up to 2,000 (I think), it depends how much you want to work on it, IMHO.♫
 
One of the nicest TO finishes I've seen and glad it's finally gaining the recognition it deserves.  It wears like a beast, as well.  I have hundreds of hours on my neck and not a single indicator of wear.
 
StubHead said:
I need to ask, what brand(s) of sandpaper were you using during everything besides the last 3M polishing paper? I luckily discovered that the "synthetic steel wool" that I was planning to do my anti-French polishing Tru-Oil finish with actually kicks out a whole bunch of stuff that is much closer to "sand" than to "grain filler." I'm familiar with the old gray wet/dry paper, but in doing a bit of reading it seems there are new miracles in Sandpaperland? Or is that just the Stew-Mac blurb department at full throttle... ???

Sorry I didn't see this post earlier.  I used what I could buy at the local hardware store.  I did buy the 3000 grit off ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/350549803910#ht_727wt_1174  I'm sure there are differences in sandpapers, but this worked for me.
 
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