Am awaiting on parts for tele.P-rails in neck,SSL-6 (rw ) mid and quarter-pounder for tele in bridge.on pick-up forum it was suggested I use 5-way superswitch.have already ordered stock 5-way switch from warmth.what is advantage of superswitch.live in Australia and have found one at www.guitarparts.co.nz.what is 4pole.should I use superswitch instead?thanks
4 pole 5-way superswitch
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Cagey
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A "Superswitch" is a 4P5T (4 pole, 5 Throw) switch, so it has 4 electrically separate switches that have a common operator that moves through 5 electrically separate switch positions, all with a common point. Here's the switch logic for one...
A standard Strat switch is a 2P5T (2 pole, 5 Throw) part, but it's a little different in that it's two electrically separate switches on a common operator where the 2 and 4 positions put the 1, 3 and 3, 5 positions in parallel. Here's the switch logic for one...
The 4P5T part is much more versatile, but slightly more difficult to wire. On a standard Strat with all single coil pickups, it doesn't offer any advantages. But, if you start replacing single coil pickups with dual coil parts (humbuckers or "noiseless"), and it opens up some possibilities the standard 2P5T Strat switch won't do on its own.
Here's a page that shows the pinouts and switch logic for most common guitar/bass switches.
The same site has a page of links to diagrams for a wide variety of 3 pickup configurations.
A standard Strat switch is a 2P5T (2 pole, 5 Throw) part, but it's a little different in that it's two electrically separate switches on a common operator where the 2 and 4 positions put the 1, 3 and 3, 5 positions in parallel. Here's the switch logic for one...
The 4P5T part is much more versatile, but slightly more difficult to wire. On a standard Strat with all single coil pickups, it doesn't offer any advantages. But, if you start replacing single coil pickups with dual coil parts (humbuckers or "noiseless"), and it opens up some possibilities the standard 2P5T Strat switch won't do on its own.
Here's a page that shows the pinouts and switch logic for most common guitar/bass switches.
The same site has a page of links to diagrams for a wide variety of 3 pickup configurations.
it all depends on your goals. the standards switch can be used for a few extra things it wasn't designed for and some things that may be difficult to understand. but my rule in guitar controls is to keep it simple. and generally i think the stock switches are more reliable, especially the ones for american strats. i hvae some diagrams on here that i did for other people that are quite confusing, but my own guitars are quite simple, i went through a phase when i was younger haveing 15 or more combinations and mixing dissimilar pickups it seires parallel and in and out of phase but as i learned more about it i learned there are better ways to change the sound and i never used more than 2-3 of those combinations. and i find that the sound should be more balanced over the range of pickups so a flip of the switch doesnt need a whole new amp/ pedal board/ tone setting to sound good.
i would use a stock switch unless you want something specific that cant be done otherwise. and if your not sure if you can do it with a stock switch just ask
i would use a stock switch unless you want something specific that cant be done otherwise. and if your not sure if you can do it with a stock switch just ask
drewfx
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Cagey said:A "Superswitch" is a 4P5T (4 pole, 5 Throw) switch, so it has 4 electrically separate switches that have a common operator that moves through 5 electrically separate switch positions, all with a common point. Here's the switch logic for one...
A standard Strat switch is a 2P5T (2 pole, 5 Throw) part, but it's a little different in that it's two electrically separate switches on a common operator where the 2 and 4 positions put the 1, 3 and 3, 5 positions in parallel. Here's the switch logic for one...
I just want to add that there's another type of 2P5T 5-way switch that doesn't "hard-wire" the 2 and 4 positions. The "standard" Strat switch Cagey describes has 2 lugs for each PU, the other type has 2 lugs for each switch position. Depending on what you're doing, either one may be preferable.
These photos show the difference, but note that the (first) "standard" one has 1 set of lugs on each side, so you only see half of them. The far right is the "common" (output), and the other three typically each attach to one PU, usually with the tone controls attaching on the other side:
This one has all the lugs on one side, 2 sets of 5 "one for each switch position" lugs and 2 commons:
The super switch is similar to the second one, except it has 4 sets of lugs instead of 2. I haven't used one yet, but I've heard superswitches are a tight fit in some top-routed bodies.
Thanks.basically the plan is to use a push/pull pot to separate neck p-rails into p90 or humbucker. 5-way selector:1-neck,2-single from rails & mid,3-mid,4-mid/bridge,5-bridge.play mainly blues,some
Rock,funk,jazz.this set-up is only theoretical. I really don't know how pickups will sound together. Maybe better off having p90/hum with mid.either way ihave to go back to wiring 101 and try to understand everything you guys said.
Rock,funk,jazz.this set-up is only theoretical. I really don't know how pickups will sound together. Maybe better off having p90/hum with mid.either way ihave to go back to wiring 101 and try to understand everything you guys said.
Cagey
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leejord said:
No, it's not difficult at all. Electrically, a P-rail looks just like a humbucker, since that's what it is. All four wires are brought out - the start-finish from each winding - as well as a shield. So, any humbucker schematic that uses push/pull or push/push or toggle switches will work. This is a diagram that uses a pair of P-rails specifically with two push-pulls to and a toggle.
It may not be exactly what you're looking for, but it's easily modified. There are a number of different configurations you can review here. The P-rails diagrams can be found in the drop-down list for humbucker schemes.
