1st neck order need some advice

[anodnas]

Currently playing a player series strat with a modern c neck. Putting together a strat and am looking for a v shaped neck for thumb over playing. I have average sized hands. I’ve noticed when I do play thumb over that I wish I had a little more neck to fill my palm. I am stuck deciding between a Clapton and a boatneck.

Other specs I’ve decided on already:
1 5/8 nut
7.25 radius
6100ss frets
Roasted maple
Rosewood fretboard

Any advice is appreciated!

 

[Rick]

Both profiles are nice, though my fav for over top thumb is the standard thin. A great profile is the Wolfgang, my current overall fav.  Truth is you gotta try a lot of necks before you find the best for you.  Just pick one knowing you’ll get another guitar, or at least neck, in the future.

 

[stratamania]

Based on what you have said I would be inclined towards the Clapton.

 

[anodnas]

I've been leaning towards that Clapton profile. I just wish I could find something close in the showcase so I don't have 5 weeks to second guess my decisions. Oh well, thanks for the input guys!

 

[spe111]

Have you played a V neck? My fingers are probably average length. For me the V neck is not the most comfortable for thumb over, for me it's the U shaped 52 Telecaster RI. I think the 1  and 5/8" nut width is also important, but between the U and the V with the same nut width, U is better for me.

 

[anodnas]

Have you played a V neck? My fingers are probably average length. For me the V neck is not the most comfortable for thumb over, for me it's the U shaped 52 Telecaster RI. I think the 1  and 5/8" nut width is also important, but between the U and the V with the same nut width, U is better for me.

I played the new vintera 50's strat with a V profile and liked it (but to be honest I played a vintera tele with a U profile and liked that as well). I only played each for 10 minutes or so. Both necks had a smaller thickness than a boatneck so I think a boatneck might be a bit too thick for me.  Thanks for the input!

 

[anodnas]

I tired a few necks back to back a guitar center today and learned a few things:

Must be a tight radius 7.25-9.5

Must be 1.650 or less nut

V vs C I could barely tell the difference.

Chunkier vs thinner wasn’t as big a difference as I thought. I’d say i preferred a bit thicker but a boatneck would be overkill.

 

[Cagey]

A word of warning with tight radii - they're comfy, but fret setup becomes very important. Get down to those numbers, and the frets have to be as close to perfect as you can get lest you suffer from them "boinking" out (strings hit higher frets when bending and will deaden/sing/buzz/change pitch). Also, it's critical enough that you'll want to use stainless frets to eliminate/minimize wear, as tolerances get so close that very little wear will create problems. Many players won't use tight radii because of that, unless they're willing to accept (or perhaps prefer/desire) high string action. While I always recommend stainless frets, I can't imagine trying to live without them on round 'boards like that, unless you are or have a pet luthier on hand for frequent neck maintenance.

 

[beltjones]

I've always found the nut width and the radius to matter more than the back of the neck shape for thumb over playing. A smaller nut and smaller radius make a big difference. With a 1 5/8" nut and 7.25" radius, a Clapton profile might feel a bit small.

I'm actually sitting next to a tele that has a clapton profile, 1 5/8" nut, and 7.25" radius. It's a modern construction neck that I re-radiused down to 7.25", and slimmed the nut down from 1 11/16" to 1 5/8". It's MUCH slimmer feeling after making those changes, even though it's still as thick back-to-front as it always was. 

 

[anodnas]

A word of warning with tight radii - they're comfy, but fret setup becomes very important. Get down to those numbers, and the frets have to be as close to perfect as you can get lest you suffer from them "boinking" out (strings hit higher frets when bending and will deaden/sing/buzz/change pitch). Also, it's critical enough that you'll want to use stainless frets to eliminate/minimize wear, as tolerances get so close that very little wear will create problems. Many players won't use tight radii because of that, unless they're willing to accept (or perhaps prefer/desire) high string action. While I always recommend stainless frets, I can't imagine trying to live without them on round 'boards like that, unless you are or have a pet luthier on hand for frequent neck maintenance.

Thanks, I have been planning on getting stainless frets.  A slightly higher action doesn't bother me too much and I think I'm willing to sacrifice a bit of low action for the increased thumb over comfort.  How much fret work does a new Warmoth with stainless steel usually need?

 

[anodnas]

I've always found the nut width and the radius to matter more than the back of the neck shape for thumb over playing. A smaller nut and smaller radius make a big difference. With a 1 5/8" nut and 7.25" radius, a Clapton profile might feel a bit small.

I'm actually sitting next to a tele that has a clapton profile, 1 5/8" nut, and 7.25" radius. It's a modern construction neck that I re-radiused down to 7.25", and slimmed the nut down from 1 11/16" to 1 5/8". It's MUCH slimmer feeling after making those changes, even though it's still as thick back-to-front as it always was.

That sounds like the neck I was planning to order! Now i'm trying decide between a showcase Standard Thin with the same specs or doing a custom with the Clapton profile. I'm worried the standard thin will be too thin though. Thanks!

 

[Cagey]

Thanks, I have been planning on getting stainless frets.  A slightly higher action doesn't bother me too much and I think I'm willing to sacrifice a bit of low action for the increased thumb over comfort.  How much fret work does a new Warmoth with stainless steel usually need?

It depends what you're used to. Many people use their necks straight out of the box, as they're fairly well done. But, the frets aren't leveled/dressed/polished, which some prefer. I would think if you're inclined to neck-over thumb usage, you'd want that done. The fret ends are beveled, but not dressed, so they can be a bit "edgy". Leveling allows for lower action without buzzing, and a good nut treatment helps quite a bit as well.

 

[musicispeace]

I have a clapton warmoth neck and a boatneck. I like both but the boatneck is definitely more in the hand. I think if you are a thumb over the neck player the clapton would be a good choice and easier to get that thumb over the top. Its a little more neck than a standard thin. (not a big amount but a bit more) 1 5/8 is very handy for doing thumb over top as well.

I still remember the first time I got my hands on a Nash strat with his boatneck in a shop and it was quite a chunk of timber. If anywhere near you has one Nash claims their boatnecks average .97 all across. Now I love boatnecks but I still have my clapton and a standard thin and like those too.

I'd like to hear how the radius you are considering works for you. I don't think I have gotten my hands on a 7.5, just the 10-16 compound which works fine for me. I recently got a Squire guitar with a 12" radius that I like and an Ibanez with 15.75 that is definitely much flatter but fun to play.

 

[anodnas]

I have a clapton warmoth neck and a boatneck. I like both but the boatneck is definitely more in the hand. I think if you are a thumb over the neck player the clapton would be a good choice and easier to get that thumb over the top. Its a little more neck than a standard thin. (not a big amount but a bit more) 1 5/8 is very handy for doing thumb over top as well.

I still remember the first time I got my hands on a Nash strat with his boatneck in a shop and it was quite a chunk of timber. If anywhere near you has one Nash claims their boatnecks average .97 all across. Now I love boatnecks but I still have my clapton and a standard thin and like those too.

I'd like to hear how the radius you are considering works for you. I don't think I have gotten my hands on a 7.5, just the 10-16 compound which works fine for me. I recently got a Squire guitar with a 12" radius that I like and an Ibanez with 15.75 that is definitely much flatter but fun to play.

Thanks for the reply. Do you do thumb over with the 10-16? I haven't been able to try one but I've played some 12 inch radius (which by my estimate would feel similar around the 5th fret of the compound neck and wasn't crazy about it).  I'll give you an update on the radius when I get the neck. My choice has been narrowed to a Standard Thin with all my specs in the showcase OR going with a custom with the Clapton. 

 

[musicispeace]

Just tried thumb over on a standard thin after reading your reply and the lowest E string worked fine. I find myself only doing thumb over on one part of one ZZ Top song so its not a frequent occurrence for me. But it was comfortable on the Standard Thin. When I get back from work today I'll try it on my Clapton neck and post again here for a comparison. My hands are probably in between large and small. My Standard thin is 1 11/16 wide. (My boatneck is 1 5/8 since I wanted a little more narrow to balance the extra neck in the palm)

I think the question becomes does the slight V and very slight extra neck in the Clapton help or hinder or is it neutral. If you know you like V necks then that speaks to part of the answer. I'm a second time around player and have been using Warmoth since 2012. I do own a Squire and an Ibanez but just Warmoth parts stuff otherwise.

And as I commented before I like the 1 5/8 neck width for versatility, especially if you want to do thumb over.

 

[musicispeace]

The Clapton neck doesn't feel particularly different from the Standard Thin outside of the gentle V when I try thumb over. Technically it is slightly more neck but its subtle. For 1 5/8 width, I think if you know you really like V necks that may be your answer. Otherwise, a 1 5/8 Standard Thin should allow you to do as you feel you need to for thumb over. But, of course, we all have different hands and approaches. I notice the V in the Clapton but it is not pronounced to me. To someone else it may be glaring, of course.

 

[anodnas]

Thanks for the advice everyone! After trying out a bunch of necks I ended up getting the following from the showcase:

Style: Stratocaster®
Construction: Vintage Construction
Scale: 25-1/2"
Orientation: Right Handed
Neck Wood: Roasted Maple
Fingerboard Wood: Indian Rosewood (Dark)
Nut Width: 1-5/8"
Back Shape: Standard thin
Fret Size: SS6150 (Stainless) $20.00
Tuner Ream: Planet Waves(13/32")
Radius: Straight 7.25" (vintage)
Fret #: 21
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
Inlays: Cream Face Dots
Side Dots: White Side Dots
String Nut: GraphTech White TUSQ XL - Standard Nut $30.00
Finish: No Finish

I'll give an update once I get it set-up!

 

[rgand]

That should be a nice neck. It should do very well for whatever you put it on.

 

[Rick]

That's a nice neck.

 

[musicispeace]

That should be a great neck! Tell us how it goes. I've got a couple roasted maples and really like them. Congrats.