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Would pre-drilled mounting holes on humbucker routs be valuable to you?

Would pre-drilled humbucker ring mounting holes on all humbucker routs be valuable to you?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 21 65.6%
  • No, I would prefer to drill them myself.

    Votes: 11 34.4%

  • Total voters
    32
I suppose only if it can be more accurate than what i can do with my eyeballs. I sorta like doing it myself.

Not warmoth, but ive bought necks that had the tuning peg holes off kilter. A real downer. That's why i only get warmoth necks.

All depends on accuracy. Tentative yes based on some r and d. I think there might be a demand for this for newbies. Probably a good idea to start with strat jacks and see what happens. then trem covers and back covers (because if you think about it, it's lining up two holes, one in the material and another in the wood, then pickup rings, see how it goes, then F hole tele pickguards, then cabronita, then telecaster pickguards, after that if there are no issues and you know your machining is accurate (based on if any are returned) then just drill baby drill.
 
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I could only vote yes if the builder had conditional logic built in to add the rings to the order with the choices of Black, chrome or Gold selectable by the user, along with the disclaimer that if they choose to use rings un-purchased by Warmoth, that Warmoth is not responsible for any related discrepancy.

I would only otherwise vote yes if this were an option rather than a default. Trying to think like Ken would and prevent returns.
 
Predrilled holes as an option would be very valuable to me. J bass pickup holes, P bass pickup holes - holes in wimpy guitars ...
Definitely something I would gladly pay for.
Warmoth offers predrilling for bridges, which I think is a brilliant idea.
 
As an option, no harm there. I see a lot more value in the output jack ferrule for strats. I've drilled too close to the edge of the rout more than once trying to leave enough room for the tip of the plug.

Pre-drilling necks for hidden tuner pins would be huge, especially the 2-pin type Fender uses. Sperzel uses a single blind pin, too. Fender doesn't even include a paper template in the box for those.
 
Only if it's selectable (not default). I might choose it most times if the charge were small/fair for the convenience, except in edge cases, like when using your Filter'Tron mounting ring, which is ever so slightly smaller in both x/y axes. Charge would probably not be negligible (sub $10), given it'd be weighted on tool change/travel time (times number of times/day it's performed), tool wear/replacement (higher for smaller bits like that working across various wood densities), prototyping/QC costs, and time to implement/debug the builder logic, etc.
 
Quick derail: since they do Kahler routs on request, drill the mounting holes too. And put it in the builders. If the attention helps Gary sell even 1 more unit, it's worth it. 🫡
 
Tangent, but did you know 59 Les Paul burst fanatics are very particular about the plastic used in their M-69 reproduction humbucker rings, and if they do not smell of vomit, they don’t consider it authentic?

True facts. The plastic they’re made of - cellulose acetate butyrate - breaks down and releases butyric acid, which is found in vomit, spoiled milk, Parmesan cheese, and Hersheys chocolate among other things.
 
The drill may be the easiest tool to master after the hammer.

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Pickguard & output jack dimensions are pretty standardized. However, humbucker rings can be all over the place. I foresee lots of calls from customers complaining the $2 rings they bought off eBay don't match the pre-drilled holes.
 
While I personally would not need them, I can see the value for those who are just getting into the hobby. And as for buying the matching hardware from WM, I don't see that as an issue. I have a Showcase body that was routed for a Floyd, and since it seems like dimensions for the "original Floyd Rose" can vary wildly depending on who you're sourcing from (so much for "original" ... :rolleyes: ), I'm gonna have to buy the bridge from WM anyway. Last thing I want to deal with is spending a couple hundred bucks on something that's 2mm too wide or 1mm too narrow even if it was with free shipping from somewhere else.
 
While I personally would not need them, I can see the value for those who are just getting into the hobby. And as for buying the matching hardware from WM, I don't see that as an issue. I have a Showcase body that was routed for a Floyd, and since it seems like dimensions for the "original Floyd Rose" can vary wildly depending on who you're sourcing from (so much for "original" ... :rolleyes: ), I'm gonna have to buy the bridge from WM anyway. Last thing I want to deal with is spending a couple hundred bucks on something that's 2mm too wide or 1mm too narrow even if it was with free shipping from somewhere else.
Original means Made In Germany with a part number that is OFR-X00 where the X is a color code.

Everything else I have ever seen is FRT-X000 which is the Korean "Pro Series" found on basically every OEM Floyd equipped guitar or the FRS-X000 for the Floyd Rose Special.
 
Original means Made In Germany
This partnership appears to have ended, though I'm not sure why. As far as I understand, at Floyd Rose they weren't happy about some things Schaller changed in their production, but the internet seems to be full of speculation about that:

It can be read, for example, that Floyd Rose disapproved the introduction of the cnc-milled saddles offered in different radii, that Schaller took from their own Lockmeister Tremolo. However, Floyd Rose is now offering the same, but made in USA.
 
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