wipe on poly experiences?

nickt

Newbie
Messages
7
Hi all
I'm debating what to use once I've stained my guitar. It's a mahogany back/quilt top maple s**t type.
I'm staining it a shade of purple.

I've previously used nitro, but don't want to again due to the long wait times and general noxious make up.

I'm tempted to explore wipe on poly as I don't have spray eqpt, and will otherwise use spraybomb clear., but I'm having trouble picturing topcoat that you wipe on will sit flat and glossy like a sprayed product.

what's the deal with this stuff?
 
nickt said:
Hi all
I'm debating what to use once I've stained my guitar. It's a mahogany back/quilt top maple s**t type.
I'm staining it a shade of purple.

I've previously used nitro, but don't want to again due to the long wait times and general noxious make up.

I'm tempted to explore wipe on poly as I don't have spray eqpt, and will otherwise use spraybomb clear., but I'm having trouble picturing topcoat that you wipe on will sit flat and glossy like a sprayed product.

what's the deal with this stuff?

It's funny, I was thinking of asking the exact same question and you saved me the trouble. I have nothing nmore to add.
 
Works fine but still requires normal wet sanding. This is great for maple necks, my first experience wasn't so hot if you have one you can practice on that would be best. I was in too much of a rush and applied too much finish but if you're careful it will be fine.

http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts.asp?CategoryName=Finishes&NameProdHeader=KTM+Product+Line+%96+Water+based+Finish
 
jay4321 said:
Works fine but still requires normal wet sanding. This is great for maple necks, my first experience wasn't so hot if you have one you can practice on that would be best. I was in too much of a rush and applied too much finish but if you're careful it will be fine.

http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts.asp?CategoryName=Finishes&NameProdHeader=KTM+Product+Line+%96+Water+based+Finish

Thanks for that Jay, much appreciated. I presume that the stuff mentioned in the link is roughly analagous to Minwax wipe on poly?
 
I'm a nitro man, but a number of members have reported good results using the Minwax Wipe-on Poly, do a search of the threads for " Minwax Wipe-on Poly"
 
will definitely search for minwax threads, as it's readily available too, The KTM product seems to be more of a brush on/spray on product. Nice results though.
thanks  :icon_smile:
 
It works decently well, actually - it's an easy application for sure. The thing to watch is runs - very thin coats, and not too many, are the ticket. Give it a full month to cure as well. I'd happily do it again for a maple neck (satin) but for a body I'd go to the trouble of nitro if I ever do another finish.
 
I'm retracting this endorsement for Master Gel after trying Minwax Wipe-On poly.
My experience is that the minwax is more forgiving, easier to apply, doesn't get tacky too fast and seems to be more durable.
I re-finished a maple neck with the minwax, that had previously been done with master gel and it's been quite a while and I'm very pleased with the minwax.

Behlen's Master Gel is awesome.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&safe=off&q=Behlen%27s%20master%20gel&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbo=u&tbs=shop:1&source=og&sa=N&tab=wf&biw=1152&bih=679

3 hours between coats. Dries / cures and is playable in 1 day.
It's a wipe on.

My first experience with it is on my oldest warmoth on the maple neck. It's water and alcohol resistant.
3 thin coats.
Cleaning the neck finished with BMG is as simple as using a damp rag and wiping it down. That's it ... but it rarely feels like it's dirty.
It's a very natural feeling finish. No sticky feeling.
I play this neck 3+ hours a day 365/66 days a year and am 2 yrs. into this finish and it's better than when it was put on because it's polished under my hand.

Second: A cellar setps banister. One thick sloppy wipe down in a hurry. Well ... it came out great. Cleans up with water and looks and feels good.

My third experience was doing a black korina body with it ... See pics here if you like.
http://www.sightsea.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=25

It was very easy to work with. Dries fast and is very forgiving. I did about 5 thin coats on the korina body with usually 1 day in between coats, maybe less on some.
It came out great.

I have limited experience with finishing but after 2 big wins using Master-Gel I'll never try anything else ... i.e. unless I can't get the master gel.
It's just too easy, forgiving, good looking, durable and fells good under the hands for me to consider anything else.

One caution. Avoid the Tin Containers. Get it in a plastic bottle.

I currently have about 1/2 a quart in a tin container with a twist off cap. I've had to use a pipe wrench to remove the cap every time after the first time it was opened. Also it will get a hard skin on the top of what remains in the can.
I just poke through it with a long screw driver.
 
Vhelchroh said:
I've never wiped anyone called Poly.  :icon_scratch:

I've never polyed anyone I've wiped.

Of course, that list is understandably short, but still. I think I can rest easy.
 
I did my guitar body with a wipe on satin poly for general finishes. check out pics here:

http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=15818.0
 
What would you guys think of wiping on a poly finish over an oil finish?  I'm working on a body right now where I started with a few coats of linseed oil, followed by a few coats of tru-oil... I am really liking the way that it's starting to look, but I'm not comfortable with the level of hardness... seems like it'll scratch/dent very easily.
 
Vhelchroh said:
I've never wiped anyone called Poly.  :icon_scratch:

P.J. Harvey would be pleased to read that!  :laughing7:

Back OT..... I have read of some success stories of people using Minwax Poly Wipes......
 
shan564 said:
What would you guys think of wiping on a poly finish over an oil finish?  I'm working on a body right now where I started with a few coats of linseed oil, followed by a few coats of tru-oil... I am really liking the way that it's starting to look, but I'm not comfortable with the level of hardness... seems like it'll scratch/dent very easily.

Wipe on Poly, like Minwax, is not a catalyzed polyurethane like the ones used by many guitar manufacturers and is similar in hardness to truoil... so I wouldn't bother.
 
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