I'd not give you two cents for on of his chassis. Let me repeat that - I'd not give you two cents for one of his chassis.
My old acquaintance Doug Hoffman quit selling them. They have terrible welds, and basically.. fall apart. The only thing you can do, and that I have done, is to get one, then drill and rivet the end caps.
His transformers are made for him, and frankly, there are better transformers out there. None of the kits has a decent transformer. Why? Because good transformers are very expensive, and "kits" need to be inexpensive in order to sell.
Teds a smart guy. Has online charisma. In person you'll see a somewhat different persona. The company is in fact "his son's" and his son is .... less than energetic to get things correct. There was a huge huge hullabaloo from Weber and Company over people documenting all the bad experiences they had with his company - such as my never having gotten one speaker shipped to me that was packaged correctly - arriving with bent frames and torn cones. You dont take a 12 inch speaker and just toss it into a 14 inch square box and send it on its merry way. I've heard things have improved a bit in that regard. The problem with the chassis has to do with his platers. The pickling they use prior to plating - with copper then nickel, then chrome - gets under the tabs of the endcaps, where it is not able to get out, and it finally eats through what was a marginal weld to begin with. Brother Vic knows I went around and around trying to get chassis replaced - took me from Sept to Febuary a few years ago. The bad thing - not all come pre-eaten out. Some will fail during building (when you mount transformers and weight is applied or stress is applied when tightening them). Some will fail after you mount them in the cabinet. Best to just rework them first.....
Speak of rework - his cabinets. I've got THREE 5e3 cabinets from him. I said to Ted, these are not right. The sizes are wrong. He pitched a total fit. I mean he got MAD at me (his customer and dealer at the time). That was pretty much the final straw for me with Weber and Co. It cost me more to rework his stuff than to buy good stuff to begin with. The cabinets were made "correct" to outside sizes but... behold.... he used materials that were too thick. He used for instance 5/8 baffles and 1/2 inch rear panels, and 5/8 side front wall material too. The combined stacking of over-thick parts made the INSIDE of the cabinet about 3/8 too small to get anything in there. I had to make new baffles, and rework the rear panels in order to get anything to fit.
I've personally had more bad experiences with them than a person should have.
My advice - get a Mojo cabinet and chassis. Go over to www.tubesandmore.com and get the parts you need. The chassis comes with board. If Mojo is not listing chassis - go over to www.ampwares.com and get one from him - same price. The transformers - personally the chassis are made to accept the Fender blackface power transformers - get one from www.tubesandmore.com. For the output transformer, you can use that vendor, get a Hammond or a Fender knockoff (cheap), or you can get an exact reproduction of the Triad from Mercury, expensive, but the output transformer is the heart of amp tone. Think of it as the pickup. The output transformer has THAT much effect on tone.
For parts - go with the Fender style CTS pots. Either orange drop or mallory capacitors, and sprague atom electrolytic caps. You can use cornell silver mica cap for bright on the volume pot. Sockets - just get something that fits the transformer - ceramic and gold is nice, but not really needed. Phenolic and tin work as good. Use carling brand switches. Use switchcraft jacks. Use a Fender type pilot light made by chicago miniature lamp co. Fuse holder by anyone... those round push and twist ones are what you want. They have power cords online too, but if you need one... email me, as I have a lifetime supply of them here (leftovers).
Am I down on Weber. Yes, but with cause.
My Deluxe adventures...
http://www.blueshottub.com/Deluxe/
